Replies

1. 
   brownbagg | Jun 06, 2006 11:40pm | #1

   $7483.11
1. 
   DanH | Jun 06, 2006 11:46pm | #2

   I think you're way off -- at least $0.14 under!(BB's point is that there are too many variables. First off, a lot depends on your utility company's policies -- some will do their end of the upgrade for free, others will charge an arm. Then you've got variables of overhead vs underground, whether the weatherhead and mast need to be replaced (and does that involve any surgery on the house), whether the larger wiring can be fed into the house without major surgery, how big your current panel is and whether you need a new one, etc.)But that number is probably in the ballpark, +/- a factor of two.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 07, 2006 12:06am | #3

   In a "normal" part of the country if it is a "simple" coversion then $1-2k

   *Simple - the panel will mount where the existing panel is. The panel is inside. The drop will be in the same places and is directly outside the area where the panel is. There are no problems with finishes or other contruction. The city/power co has not changed rules that require external disconnect or relocation of the drop. And there is no charge from the power company and permit/inspection charges are nominal. And the city allows you to only upgrade the panel/meter and not other wiring in the house.

   If all of the above are false then twice BB estimate is a good START.

1. 
   skip555 | Jun 07, 2006 01:11am | #4

   1400 in sw fl 6 years ago when we did ours

2. 
   cap | Jun 07, 2006 06:01am | #10

   Bill,

   I think your estimate is low by a factor of two or three, for most large urban areas.

   Here on the West Coast most installations are a combo service entrance panel (integrated meter base and main panel), are exterior, and have a rigid (heavywall) conduit riser. 

   Consequently, a service/panel heavy-up involves replacing the riser, roof jack, etc.  And if the old panel is original, it's usually flush or semi-flush mounted, so removal is not simple.

   When you factor in the increases in the cost of materials, a straightforward upgrade from 100 to 200 amps runs about $2000-3000.  Stucco finish, ca-ching, add $500, and so on.

   I'm talking about work done by a licensed electrical contractor who's running a full time business, and who carries commercial casualty insurance. 

   Even in a high-cost area, I'm sure there are non-licensed guys who'll do a heavy-up for $1-2k, no license, no permits.  Caveat emptor--let the buyer beware, of you get what you pay for.

   Cliff

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 07, 2006 07:03am | #11

   That is why I put all of the restrictions on it.Interior panel, no finishes (stucco) or finished interior, etc.

3. 
   fourquarter | Jun 07, 2006 01:38am | #5

   I just upgraded our panel myself, which quite honestly was not nearly so daunting as I had imagined. We moved the panel over one stud bay and the switch went off without a hitch.

   I would say if you do it yourself, the materials are going to be around $700.00. That would include a new panel and meter base, mast, weatherhead, guy lines, grounding rods, and a handful of misc. stuff (some breakers, a couple of rolls of romex, etc.)

   We had a panel done 2 years ago by an electrician and I seem to remember that it was around 2k for the whole shebang.

   I say read a little, be careful, and have a crack at it yourself, it will totally demystify the ominous box...only of course if it's your own house and assuming it's legal where you live.

   kh

1. 
   skip555 | Jun 07, 2006 01:51am | #6

   ours is above the water heater , most of the quotes said we had to move it but one guy said no , older guy seemed knowledgable
   thats he guy we hired , I wasnt home but wife said he and the inspector went round and round a bit untill he convinced the inspector it met code
   saved us qutie a bit over moving it I suspect had i done it myself the inspector would have insisted we move it

1. 
   VaTom | Jun 07, 2006 03:28am | #7

   I suspect had i done it myself the inspector would have insisted we move it

   Sounds right to me.

   Our place has the panel in the bathroom, code allowed at the time.  I figured: put it right beside the crapper- have a seat and wire.  Not so fast sez my inspector.  Gotta have 30" wide and so far in front, completely free.  Ended up with the panel bottom sitting on the floor under a window.

   Plopped my azz on the floor instead.  Code compliant.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

4. 
   BryanSayer | Jun 07, 2006 04:30am | #8

   Part of the expense might be determined by whether or not you can live with the power turned off for a day or so. Maintaining power to the house makes it slightly harder, particularly if you want the new panel in exactly the same place as the old panel. If the new panel can be in a slightly different place, you might be able to use the old panel as a junction box.

   Normally, one of my suggestions is to use copper for the service entrance cable (SEC). But with the price of copper so $@#!% high, I would certainly check the price on both.

   I think a price of $700 for materials sounds somewhat high, but in part that is influenced by whether or not you can re-use some of the breakers from the existing panel and whether or not you want GFCI and AFCI breakers. Personally, I like them, because then I know the only place for something to pop is the panel. They are expensive though.

   Not that you asked, but my personal preference is for SquareD QO line.

1. 
   zak | Jun 07, 2006 04:43am | #9

   $700 is more than I spent for materials doing mine, but when you add in permit fees and utility fees for disconnecting, reconnecting, and providing 200 amps, I probably ended up about $800.

   For a non pro like me, it took 3 days of double checking things with the power off before it was where I wanted it.  That wasn't just the panel, I also rewired some circuits that were on BX, and a few other things that made me nervous, but I wouldn't short yourself it it's a first time.zak

   "so it goes"

5. 
   pebble | Jun 07, 2006 08:29am | #12

   I upgraded my 60 amp panel to a 150 amp. Had to run 2 1/2" EMT conduit from the panel to the outside breaker. The original panel was in the living room. I moved it to the kitchen to a wall the had the code required space around it and unobstructed space in front. I did all the work myself, borrowed the neighbors power for a day or two with an extension cord to keep my fridge and a light on. I think I spent about $450 for the EMT, a Siemens panel (I like that brand), and the new breakers and AFCs and GFCs (Siemens), 2/0 copper for the feed between the panel and outside breaker. I even got a surge arrestor for the panel it goes in and doubles as a breaker. Anyways I did a lot of reading at the library and asking around on here before doing it. The most dangerous part was picking up the cardboard that I used to stand on as I took the old feed wire out of the service breaker and put the new one in (breakers turned off of course) and finding a black widow spider under it. Gave me a bit of a scare. It would suck to die of a black widow bite when I had been in close quarters with live electricity lol.

   Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK