In advance thanks for you help.
Looking for ideas on an upcoming reno. Scope is to demolish 3/4 of the existing home add several additions and re-structure the existing space. Included in the scope is the removal of the existing baseboard system. We will be installing a new 2 zone forced air system. The project will begin October one and last 7 months not taking into account the dreaded change order. O.K. I know, enough already. Im concerned about three existing bathrooms. Two on the second floor and one on the first floor. The home will be un-occupied, heat will be removed (When necessary) and tempatures will drop. Pipes, wall paper and finishes are my worry. Can the pipes be drained capped in the basement and then reconnected at the end. The bathrooms are all formed by interior walls, however the siding and roofing will be replaced. Any management advice. The walls are all plaster, copper is 1/2 at fixtures and 1″ in the basement with about a 25 foot vertical run. Existing mouldings are basic base,casing and stained beadboard ceilings edge out with a cove.Im in new jersey so it can get cold. Let me know if you need more info to give me a few tips.
As for my previous post “KEEPING IT CLEAN” , it would be great to hear more about how other guys schedule. The job im on now is a large one so there is a lot of protection work, 9 bathrooms elevator blah blah bla blah blah, so is it best to do a coat of paint and then install mouldings or are dings and dents to many to handle with just one remaining coat. gypsum,floor,one coat,mouldings,cabinets,second coat and floor finish is that how you see it?
Thanks again
Replies
Yes, plumbing is Winterized all the time. Done for vacant properties and part time properties.
Water supply is the most problems. Best it is to use compressed air to blow the lines out. That way there is no water trapped in low places. Don't forget the loop on the kitchen sprayer. But that is not a real problem as it is exposed and easily replaced.
But you also have want to flush the toilets to empty the tanks.
Then you want to fill the traps, including the toilet with, with RV (non-toxic) antifreeze.
If you are going to remove all of the fixtures then the drains won't be a problem. But seal off the openings.
Then you want to fill the traps, including the toilet with, with RV (non-toxic) antifreeze
Thanks for pointing this out. The regular antifreeze stuff for cars will kill any dog who wanders in and drinks it!
Thanks Bill, ill start with that
A good plumber in these parts puts in "low-point drains" in the crawl space, with hose bibbs on them. If you leave for winter and/or fear a hard freeze you drag a short length of garden hose in there and drain your pipes. Some folks also use "heat tape" which is essentially a long extension cord that's designed to get warm, and you wrap it around your pipes.
Just so I can maintain my status as the spelling freak, it's "temperatures".
In my experience it seems as if the final coat of paint happens about 5 times...so maybe it would be wise to lay tarps and tape trim off (if you can't cut) and maybe the painters are the last guys on site...as opposed to the walls getting scuffed by whoever...