Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 11:45am | #1

   *

   I thought to ask this after reading the posts regarding building an exterior door. My 80 y.o. neighbor has a rather homely and decrepit Cape with a dozen rotten shutters that I've offered to replace (I have to look at them after all! and he's a nice guy). (The collapsing brick stoop will be the subject of a query later this spring.) The style of existing shutter is two chamfered 1x6 planks vertically, two 1x4 across. I did a mock-up by biscuiting two rounded-over planks of pine together along their shared edge, then brad tacked 1x4's across while ext. Titebond II dried. I'll ask if he likes this. My concern for the actual project is what kind of wood to use for stability and rot resistance (cypress is available and relatively inexpensive, redwood/clear pine/cedar are about 50% more) and how to join the boards (glue? joinery?) so that the connection is firm but not apt to fall apart as the wood expands and contracts. I could put a gap between the planks, but then the shutter would be more apt to sag. A "Z" brace is possible too, but the faster I can build these the better. The shutters will most likely be sealed and painted. I wouldn't bet on meticulous upkeep, so I'd like them to be as trouble-free as possible. I'd hate to spend the money and time, then watch the shutters all fail -- then the whole neighborhood would know I'm a fool! (As the folks here already know.) -- AD :)

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1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 10:13pm | #2

   *AndrewT& G cedar, or pine if that's too expensive!!! primed & painted. No glue necessary. The existing "chamfered " planks are likely T&G. Attach battens with screws through the back. . . everyhting can then i move around seasonally. -Patrick

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 10:21pm | #3

   *Oh my! Screws? A woodworker would have a stroke.Isn't T&G a big rot hazard? Believe me, the current shutters are made of regular boards -- the one i borrowed as a model blew over in a rainstorm and shattered into twenty pieces. Seems the owner just kept putting more and more nails into it over the years.Dale suggests mortise and tenon cypress, the cool wordworker approach. You use mortise and tenon stick building houses, right, Patrick?

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   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 10:35pm | #4

   *Andrewi "Screws? A woodworker would have a stroke." Even yer finest antiques have a generous number of screws where wood movement is a concern!!!Actually I tend to frame withi sliding dovetail dadosalmost exclusively except on those rare occasions when nothing but a i Chigiri-tsugi( very phallic)will do. Vertical T&G should shed shed water nicely, but I still suggest cedar as a 1st choice!!b Knowing when to glue and when to screw (off)-Patrick

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 10:38pm | #5

   *Chigiri-tsugi? Sorry, I'm going to need an illustration. ;)

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 10:49pm | #6

   *AndrewYour fast man. . . with a keyboard! Sorry, no ilustrative powers here. Think double ended penis shaped tenon into two willing . . . receptacles. . . sized for a really tight fit. . .aww. . . words fail me. . . think i inserted tenon joint!!!Course there's always the i Koshikake-kama-tsugiwhich only requires one. . . penis. . . and one. . . willing receptacle Do I hear i Big Sisterpanting in the wings? Can you spell deleted thread???b In lieu of a flame, we have . . . Heat? :)

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 06, 1999 10:57pm | #7

   *The clock is ticking...... Got work to do, gotta go run my hands through some smooth soft sensual ... plaster. No phallic woodwork today.

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 07, 1999 04:18am | #8

   *I think it might be easier to move! that way you'll avoid the dormer work, the shutter stuff, the roof repairs, and edging, and also the attic finishing, and the porch stoop!I'm getting tired just thinking about it!You could probably stand up a 5000 sq footer easier!Blue

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 07, 1999 05:06am | #9

   *Oh, but I love my house! It's been my training ground. I'm more interesting in reno work than new construction anyway, though it is messy and difficult and headachy.I just went pneumatic (15 gauge finish & 18 guage brad) & bought a Paslode framing nailer. I feel like a new man. Never knew what I was missing!Blue, how can you tell me to just run away?(BTW, we have a killer location -- 10 min. walk to Metro, 10 minute ride to D.C. I will get back what i invest and more -- except I'm only leaving here in a pine box (maybe mahogany). There are houses nearby selling for $200k more that aren't all that different.)

6. 
   Guest_ | Mar 07, 1999 12:25pm | #10

   *I vote for cypress. I hear it is one hum-dinger of a wood and has a real nice appearance to it.Pete Draganic

7. 
   Guest_ | Mar 08, 1999 05:14am | #11

   *Seems a shame to use for coffin building. . . I vote for cardboard, biodegradeable, cut to the chase as it were. . . :>}

8. 
   Guest_ | Mar 08, 1999 08:00am | #12

   *Well, actually, I'm of the incineration frame of mind; a nice peat pot would be fine.

9. 
   Guest_ | Mar 08, 1999 09:02am | #13

   *AndrewIs that a thinly veiled invitation to a barbecue. . . is Mongo bringin' the brew-ha-ha. . . Is Joe bringing the napalm?? :>}>Just how does one peatpot? Maybe that was a typo. . . i petpot maybe?? Never done much of that either. ..regional differences sans doubt!b Don't cut your grass, burn it.