hi, i am almost ready to start painting the exterior of my 1920’s home. it has factory primed cedar clapboard and factory primed smooth cedar shakes. i will probably start with a tinted primer because it has been about 2 months since the house was finished with the wood siding. i am only using 2 colors , offwhite for the trim and a darker greygreen for the house. i live in the new york city area. so should the paint be flat, low luster, satin etc. i checked consumer reports and their top 3 paints are california, glidden, and pratt and lambert. so what is your opinion? i am confused! thanks for all your help.
Normal practice around here is low-luster for the main part of the wall, satin for the trim. However, if you want a more rustic look (especially for the shakes) you may prefer flat. My impression is that flat doesn't protect as well, though.
I'll let others weigh in on the brands. My traditional favorite is Benjamin Moore, but folks here have been saying that their quality has slipped of late.
I'm in the process of painting my house as well. I wen't with the Glidden "gripper" primer becasue I was in a pinch and needed to get it on a sunday. the stuff certainly grips. I can't even scrub it off my skin once it's dried and it's a latex. But generally speaking I would only use MAB or Sherwin williams for the top coat. I've heard great things about the Benjamin moore paint, but I've never used it. As far as sheen, I used a satin for the siding and a semi for the trim and accent. I'm happy with it sofar.
I've used Glidden gripper primer several times and you're right, it does a great job on gripping to the surface you coat it on. However, I've also had a few problems with the top coats not sticking to the gripper. The paint seams to come off in sheets in sunny areas.I pressure washed the surface to remove to failed paint. Scrubbed it down with TSF and scuffed up the gripper. But after applying the top coat again it still didn't stick.I had this happen on several jobs so even though the gripper works real good at gripping I will never use it again on any of my jobs. I had to completely remove the gripper at the failed areas and use a different primer in order for the top coat to stick as it should.busta
The sheen is your preference. The more sheen, the more the paint will resist dirt and such, its the same as inside paint. If you use a flat paint inside and kids stain the surface, it will not clean very well whereas an eggshell finish would clean much better.
We buy our paint at a professional supply store and the paint they recommend as the best is California 2010 house and trim eggshell finish. We are using it on hardie, if your doing cedar, you would probably be better off with a stain. The california covers very well and levels out perfectly. The eggshell has a slight sheen when the light is hitting it but really very little. I wouldn't like flat for exterior, I think the dirt would just stick to it and never leave.
I used flat for my clapboards and shingles and semi-gloss for my trim. I only did my front two story porch the first year, luckily not the whole house. The next year I repainted the flat with satin. The flat paint looked like crap after just one year as it was a yellowish color that showed all of the dirt. The satin doesn't seem to hold the dirt in the first place, and the bit that does attach rinses off with a hose.
As far as brands I don't think that it matters as much. I used the American Heritage (Valspar) paint on my house, as one of the years it was top rated by Consumer reports. I also have extensively used Duron (interior) paint in the past at our business (a teen night club). Duron's paint generally has scored low to middle with Consumer Reports. The Duron has held up very well in a very harsh environment. We have live music and often 200 people in a poorly ventillated space. The temp can get really high and the walls can sweat with condensation. People constantly touch it and lean on it. It seems to hold up quite well. The graffiti and duct tape that ends up on the walls is what kills it, which presumably will kill any regular paints. I think that the main thing is that you use the best quality of whatever brand, in the $20 a gallon range. A discount, bottom of the line paint is unlikely to hold up.
I'm in cold Spring Harbor NY on Long Island. I'm just about finished painting my house. I used BM oil primer then flat latex. I can't imagine any paint being much better. Seems "bullet proof" to me.The primer was about $35 a gal contractor price.
All the trim I used was BM semi gloss also at about $35 a gal my price.
S/W also has paint that comes out as thick as cream cheese and is difficult to work with if you've never used it. Cost is about the same as the BM...maybe a hair more expensive and is called DURATION.
I would like to have a word with him.
we're painting our house with Duration. Don't find it difficult to put on. Used it because it was recimmended here, and, it can be put on down to 35 degrees F.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter WFR
we're painting our house with Duration. Don't find it difficult to put on.>>>>>>>>>>I didn't get that info from experiance. My Sherwin Williams dealer told me that. Maybe they have an even thicker paint then the one you used? I donno. OR..Maybe he's just a baby.
I do have to say though thatthe BM primer I used was super thick...like glue but it was pretty easy to apply none the less..made my wrists even stronger than when I .......uhhhhh, forget it...bye : ) Where can I find a man who has forgotten words?I would like to have a word with him.—Chuang-Tzu
Here is another vote for SW Duration - more expensive per gallon, but with your labor as the most important contribution, why do it more often than you have to? I'm in a tough marine environment on L. I. Sound.
If it seems too thick, add some - brain static has just kicked in, damn! Can't remember what it's called... Help, somebody younger!