Replies

1. 
   stevent1 | Aug 18, 2006 04:55pm | #1

   We covered a 1000 sf pool house with cyprus 1 x 6 bead board. The base was sanitary 1 x 9 with a 3/8 x 3/8 rabbet at the top edge. The 1 x 5 chair rail was rabbeted on both edges. Cut the opposite rabbet on the T & G. Every thing was then sanded to 120 grit and used sanding sealer on all faces, edges and ends. Sanded with 150 and shop applied first coat of finish. We ran 2 x 6 blocking at the base and chair rail. 2 x 4 at 8' and at the top plate at 11' 9". We milled the base and chair 13/16" so it stands proud of the T & G 1/6" to eliminate a dust catch. The rabbets interlock the verticle and horizontal pieces to help keep the paneling flat. We installed the bead board with 1 1/2" staples and the other trim w 2 1/2" finish nails.
   I would reccomend against the plwood because the maple will move a little more. Make sure you acclimate the wood before installing. Sounds like a nice project

   live...work...build... better with wood

1. 
   Bellconllc | Aug 23, 2006 08:21am | #6

   Stevent1

   Thank you for your thorough input to my posted inquiry. I found your information most helpful. I do apologise for this delayed response. Though I read your posting the day you sent it our over active schedule has made it difficult to reply in a timely way.

   The description of your pool house project closely parallels what we are attempting to do here. I noted the distances between your backing blocks and would have to assume that your careful application of sanding sealer to all sides and cut ends greatly assist in minimizing warpage and contortions of the vertical bead board with the great abundance of moisture in the room. Your mention of the staples on the bead board made good sense to me. I intend to follow suit.

   You recommended against the plywood backing because the maple will move a little more gave me pause for concern. None the less I have decided to keep the ply and try for an upgrade to 5/8 in. The ply helps answer a unique dilemma in that our maple is rich with character causing for multi frequencies of burly incorrigible knots, many on the edges of the board's T&G. These delightful deformities make for random waves that refuse to land on a good majority of backing block grid lines. The ply will allow me to place a fastener at any point of bad board behavior.

   Thanks again for your well stated personal experience, and yes it is a terrific project.

   Bellconllc

2. 
   RW | Aug 18, 2006 05:03pm | #2

   I dont think that the solid wood is necessary. First, its going to move. And because of that, side issue, I'd finish it before installing just to get the edges covered. Then shoot it again on the wall after you're done and filled nail holes etc.

   But anyway. Plenty of adhesives out there that will hold that to the wall just fine. Subfloor will work, though I tend to prefer drywall adhesive since it squishes out well and supposedly does allow for a little movement over time. Where you have studs, nail to them, where you don't, pin it at the top and bottom plate. The T&G interlocking will help hold the field, and if you feel you have to suck one board down good, you can always cross pin it in the middle somewhere until the adhesive sets.

   I bring up the expansion finishing thing, I put floor to ceiling T&G in a couple of rooms once which was preprimed white, and after it was up, instead of white, the color got changed to green. My head hurt instantly, and sure enough, 6 months down the road, you could see those thin little white lines. I know you're not painting, but you don't want the lacquer to form ridges at the T&G and then show down the road.

   "Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton

1. 
   Bellconllc | Aug 23, 2006 08:52am | #7

   RW

   Thanks for your input to my posted inquiry. I found your information helpful. I apologise for this delayed response.

   Though the solid wood is not necessary, and there is plenty of plywood paneling out there, the solid boards do bring great life and depth with the visually active curly maple and it's illustrious birds eye patterns.

   Your suggestion to coat all sides of the panel boards is well received. I believe your right. Others have suggested the same approach. I now plan to do the same.

   Thanks for the warning on the shrinkage factor as it relates to the newly exposed color differences and or to possible lacquer ridges. I have had this problem before with other interior products and had forgotten to watch for it in this situation. Great reminder!

   Bellconllc

1. 
   RW | Aug 23, 2006 09:01am | #8

   All I meant by solid wood was the CDX, but I'm assuming that you already have drywall on the walls. No argument at all on the maple."Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton

3. 
   woodroe | Aug 19, 2006 02:11am | #3

   Have you considered nailing 1 x 4's every 2' horizontally on the walls? It's fast, you don't have to cut around boxes, it's easy to handle, and the cost is less. With 3/4" T&G boards, 2' centers should provide plenty of nailing. It also allows the backk side of the boards to breath, not trapping moisture between boards and plywood. I second the sealer on the back side and at least one coat of finish on the front before installation. I'd seal the bottom edge of the boards while you're at it.

1. 
   stevent1 | Aug 19, 2006 04:38pm | #4

   Good call on the 1 x 4. It will mean jamb extensions around doors and windows.

2. 
   Bellconllc | Aug 23, 2006 09:09am | #9

   woodroe

   Thanks for your input on the paneling. We gave serious thought to the 1x4 and discussed it with the owner believing it to be, as you stated, a good economical solution. We both concluded that in general it's a good approach to solve the fastening problem, however our unique dilemma is in the wildly random placement of maple curls and burls with their related subtle bows that show up off the backing grid lines. We will go to a thicker ply in spite of the cost and will consequently miss out on the good venting you described. Do note that we will seal all sides ends and edges as you and others have recommended.

   Thanks again,

   Bellconllc

4. 
   txlandlord | Aug 19, 2006 09:19pm | #5

   I am with woodrow.....horizontial 1 x 4 nailers