I have a chimney chase up against the hard edge side of a downsloping roof. the flashing will be tricky.
Anyone ever make a piece out of fiberglass mat, instead of copper? my soldering skills are not the best.
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Maybe it's time to improve them then .
my soldering skills are not the best.
How's your bending skills. Not much soldering is necessary if you bend it right.
the hard edge side of a downsloping roof.
What does that mean?
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
My ESP tells me, he needs a cricket.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Or maybe a grasshopper or two !!
HArd to describe without a picture, and my little camera broke. I Have a 2 story great room with a sloping ceiling, outside it is sort of a shed roof with a gable side.
. I also have a chimeny chasse, a rectangular one made of wood, that has corner boards and lap siding. If a giant took the chimney chasse and "pushed it " about a foot into the side of the gable end thats what it would look like. I have thought about a cricket but none of these type chasses seem to use them. Looks a little like this one cept the chimney chasse is inserted more into the roof about 1 ft, , and is further away from the peak of the roof
http://www.elitechimney.citymax.com/i//HPIM1418400.jpgits the up roof side edge flashing, where the corner board isEdited 3/27/2009 8:52 am ET by edwardh1Edited 3/27/2009 8:54 am ET by edwardh1
Edited 3/27/2009 8:54 am ET by edwardh1
Fiberglass can be a great choice. You can have a very wide flashing with leak proof compound corners. I'd use a ply of heavy deck cloth covered by a ply of heavy mat finished with another ply of deck cloth. For this application, fiberglass is easy. Just lay out the cloth and make sure you fully wet out all the layers. If your area is really big you might want to use epoxy resin to give more working time and to minimize the styrene odor from the cheaper faster polyester resin.
Fiberglass is lots more expensive than flashing but you can do lots more things without the time, expense and risk of perfecting a new skill. Plus fiberglass does not rot or corrode. And it will work fine under standing water. Good luck.
Eric
Fiberglass will degrade rapidly by UV exposure unless another coating is used. There is the problem, one more thing that needs maintaining, and up there..outta sight, outta mind prevails. It will fail sooner or later.
Bending that up outta metal is done because it is the most time proven way.
It don't have to be solderd, if lapped properly. Using a good sealant such as Lexel or Geocel, both 50 yr products, would be the extent of the detailing needed.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Good point on the UV!
I am fanatic about keeping my high performance waterskis out of the sun - always.
Pigments or paint over the fiberglass can far outlast the roofing. Or the metal in the flashing (I live at the beach so metal doesn't last 1 year for me). My 50 year old Ski Craft fiberglass boat still holds water and my 40 year old fiberglass wingtips and cowling on my Cessna are still airworthy with much of their lives spent in the desert. Some unfinished fiberglass repairs sitting in the desert sun have been significantly damaged but still would resist water after 20 years.
Fiberglass might not be the best way to flash things. But in some applications it could be the easiest and longest lived. Do make sure you paint it well or cover it with some thick roof patch.
Eric
I guess a cardboard mockup would be a good start?
Practicing with cardboard could be a decent first step.
I would no think of FG flashing be3cause of UV aging, brittlness, and it is so easy to turn a decent metal flashing.
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