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I need to apply a finish to some custom built oak bookshelves. The boss gave me Olympic Oil based polyurethane and said to have at it. I’d hate to screw these up, any suggestions?
Johnny
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I need to apply a finish to some custom built oak bookshelves. The boss gave me Olympic Oil based polyurethane and said to have at it. I’d hate to screw these up, any suggestions?
Johnny
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Replies
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Just a stray memory that might help a bit.
I remember reading an article in one of the woodworking mags about finishing porous wood. The person doing the article used a rubber squeege of the kind used to clean windows to level coats of finish. This would allow the pores and depressions to be filled in and built up to a smooth finish.
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Johnny, Get the best brush You or Your boss can afford. There are brushes just for this.Figure on three coats. Sand between each coat to get dust, imperfections, and brush marks out. Go easy use 220 grit or finer with the first coat go finer each coat and use a tack cloth after sanding to. Keep the area Your finishing in as clean as possible. Do all Your cleaning etc. before you start a coat then put it on and if possible close off the area from traffic. Don't rush it and You both should be happy with the results. Gool duck Skip
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Johnny, I just got done with a similar job, oak built-ins stained and polyed. I use Olympic oil-based poly (satin) and judge it to be the best around. The viscosity is very low and it paints on well, yet it does not run or sag severely. Minwax, etc. are too thick and hard to level. I do not sand, but use extrafine steel wool after two coats. Be careful on the edges so you don't cut through the stain. On this last job, I used fluted vertical boards topped with carved grapes baskets to hide the gaps between the cases. These would've been a bear to paint with a brush, so I sprayed them with the Olympic spray poly. The match to the brush finish was perfect. best wishes.
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Johnny - You might want to post this question over at "Knot's". They have a section of their board dedicated to finishing.
That bein' said, I prefer a penetrating oil for book shelves. The abrasion involved with sliding books in and out can be hard on urethanes. - jb
*I have finished a lot of oak shelves, book cases, trim, and floors in our house with shellac and wouldn't consider anything else. Easy to apply, quick, and easily maintained.
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I need to apply a finish to some custom built oak bookshelves. The boss gave me Olympic Oil based polyurethane and said to have at it. I'd hate to screw these up, any suggestions?
Johnny