Replies

1. 
   Shep | Jun 30, 2008 05:08am | #1

   You don't need to fir the ceiling, but it doesn't hurt either. Firring the ceiling does make rocking easier if the joists aren't all the same plane. You'll probably want to use a string, or a straight edge, to see if the bottoms of the joists are close to the same plane.

   I like to glue the foam to the wall, like you're going to do, but I'm not crazy about fiberglass in a basement. If it ever floods, it will hold water, and promote mold. I'd be inclined to use more rigid foam on the walls, and skip it between the studs.

   I also like to use metal studs for a basement. Actually, its pretty much the only place I use them. They're light, so they're easy to get into the basement; they won't be affected by mold & mildew; and once you get used to them, they go up pretty quick.

   Don't forget to mark any shut off valves and include access panels for them.

2. 
   Piffin | Jun 30, 2008 05:10am | #2

   We always use strapping for ceilings like that. One of the advantages is that it helps isolate some sound transfer. There is less drumming of footsteps from above.

   A typical basememt is often smaller than folks like so space is at a premium. I usually just glue the EPS, then glue and shoot or Tapcon fasten straping though the foam to the concrete and sheetrock over that. That way you have another 4" of space cf. another framed wall.

   the owners should be in on the decision though. Depends whether energy cost or space available is more important to them. Your climate will have an impact on that.

   Also, be sure to inspect and deal with any point of moisture penetration FIRST

    

    

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1. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 30, 2008 05:25am | #3

   You can also go with 1 5/8" metal studs and tracks..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

3. 
   Ted W. | Jun 30, 2008 06:15am | #4

   Depending on how low the ceiling is, they may not want to lose 3/4" to the strapping. Hold a long straight edge across the ceiling joists to see how flush they are. If the joists are within 1/16" is acceptable in most cases. Joist off by more than that can be furred or planes to bring them closer. The only place it would show after drywalled is possibly a little in the corners where it meets the wall. Just straighten that out when your taping and nobody will ever know the differenct.

   One thing to beware, though. You don't want any butt joints to land on a joist that sticks out from the rest, or you'll have a heck of a time floating it out.

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4. 
   timkline | Jun 30, 2008 06:17am | #5

   or Z Furring:

   http://www.alliedbuilding.net/products/productDetail.asp?ProductID=38147840

    

   carpenter in transition

5. 
   RedfordHenry | Jun 30, 2008 06:20am | #6

   I'd go with 2" rigid foam on the concrete and unless I was absolutely sure there were no moisture issues, I'd probably skip the fg in between the studs.  Strapping the undersides of the joists is a good idea.  The downside of sheetrock on the basement ceiling is lack of access to any utilities that may be running between the joists.  Assuming there are pipes, wiring and/or ducts up in the joists, make a good map of the layout, maybe take a bunch of photos before you bury everything behind the new ceiling.

6. 
   Dinosaur | Jun 30, 2008 07:50am | #7

   The owners don't want a drop ceiling so we are going to sheetrock it.

   Really bad idea, for a lot of reasons. You oughta go back around that discussion with the HOs another time and see if you can change their minds (for their own long-term good).

   I run up against this often. "I can't stand the look of those horrible dropped ceilings" or "I don't want to lose the headroom". The looks thing can be addressed by showing them some of the nice patterns available. Not all drop ceilings are ugly. Do some research on the web and download pix for the client. I had one lady who was adamant about hating drop ceilings, until I showed her a tin-look 2x2 panel.

   The loss of headroom can be a real issue when the joists are too low to start with. Not much you can do about it except point out that with flexible 4x2 panels you can get away with as little as 3" drop (although that's tight. I prefer 4").

   Your best arguments will be those which point out how disruptive, dirty, and expensive it will be each and every time they have to/want to do any kind of work on the plumbing, electric, phone, or data-line utilities buried up above that bloody gyprock ceiling they think they want....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....