*
I have 2000 feet of 3.5″ 1st grade maple to finish. It was installed a month ago over tar paper. The house is two mile from the ocean and the summer has been quite humid. I’ve had a dehumidifier running in the basement all summer and I’m about 2 weeks away from having the heating system running. The edges of the boards are starting to swell up. My first concern is choosing the best finish for my environment, in terms of humidity and floor movement. My secondary concern is maintaining the light color of the maple.
I’ve gotten estimates from four refinishers, with entirely different opinions and prices. I believe my choices are:
Oil based polyurethane, 3 to 4 coats including a Fabulon primer/sealer, 1 – 2 coats glossy polyurethane and 1 coat of satin / gloss mix. Supposedly the hardest and most tolerant of moisture induced movement, yellows on application and will continue to darken.
Acid based polyurethane, toxic upon application only, more expensive product, equivalent hardness to oil based, less yellowing and darkening than oil based.
Water based polyurethane, most expensive product, softer than oil based unless top commercial grade used, most expensive (about $120 per gallon), applies essentially clear and does not yellow.
One person said that acid or water based finishes would “panelize” the floor, prohibiting movement of individual floor boards and eventually ruining the floor.
One person said I should run heat for two weeks to stabilize the floor, then spray the basement ceiling with shellac to create a moisture barrier.
No one agrees on which finish will actually remain the lightest color over time.
No one agrees on which finish is the most durable, based on whether the solution is residential or commercial grade.
No one agrees on which finish is best for higher than desired humidity and moisture.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Replies
*
Jeff, they have oil based polys with uv protection, I like them but I am sure you will get ten different answers. I used Minwax ten yrs ago on my floors and they really haven't yellowed that much, I am actually fairly happy with them.
One thing I should point out is that you should never install maple over tarpaper, it will bleed thru. You are really going to have to manage the moisture under the floor, it can be done.
*
Mr. Katz,
I used Polycrilic(sp?)Marine on a maple refinish 6 years ago. Still looks great, no yellowing.
The Machine
*
I have 2000 feet of 3.5" 1st grade maple to finish. It was installed a month ago over tar paper. The house is two mile from the ocean and the summer has been quite humid. I've had a dehumidifier running in the basement all summer and I'm about 2 weeks away from having the heating system running. The edges of the boards are starting to swell up. My first concern is choosing the best finish for my environment, in terms of humidity and floor movement. My secondary concern is maintaining the light color of the maple.
I've gotten estimates from four refinishers, with entirely different opinions and prices. I believe my choices are:
Oil based polyurethane, 3 to 4 coats including a Fabulon primer/sealer, 1 - 2 coats glossy polyurethane and 1 coat of satin / gloss mix. Supposedly the hardest and most tolerant of moisture induced movement, yellows on application and will continue to darken.
Acid based polyurethane, toxic upon application only, more expensive product, equivalent hardness to oil based, less yellowing and darkening than oil based.
Water based polyurethane, most expensive product, softer than oil based unless top commercial grade used, most expensive (about $120 per gallon), applies essentially clear and does not yellow.
One person said that acid or water based finishes would "panelize" the floor, prohibiting movement of individual floor boards and eventually ruining the floor.
One person said I should run heat for two weeks to stabilize the floor, then spray the basement ceiling with shellac to create a moisture barrier.
No one agrees on which finish will actually remain the lightest color over time.
No one agrees on which finish is the most durable, based on whether the solution is residential or commercial grade.
No one agrees on which finish is best for higher than desired humidity and moisture.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff