i want to refinish a spoon carved wooden door to use on the front of my house. i have it stripped and needed advise as how to proceed. which product will seal the wood to withstand the elements? i do not want a “shiny” look, more satin or dull. thank you for you responses in advance.
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This is a question which requires a two part answer.
First, you need to assure that the door will be installed where there is a significant roof overhang, to protect it from the elements (not just rain and snow, but sun also).
Second -- assuming you don't want to use paint -- stain if you want, then numerous coats of lacquer. And if you can't do lacquer, then at least three coats of polyurethane. In either case, be certain that the product is rated for exterior use.
And be sure to buy/specify the sheen that you want. (Satin is available in either.)
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
Don't wish to start an argument, but my recollection of lacquer and poly are that they don't deal well with expansion and contraction, which is a factor with exterior wooden doors. Spar varnishes and oils will allow for this, which is why they've been used forever on boats. I oiled my own door, and it just needs an annual refreshing.
Assuming you want a clear finish, a true spar varnish with the highest UV protection you can get is the best bet. I find polyurethenes don't flex enough in sunlight, and start hazing, or cracking, pretty quickly.
A marine supply is a good place to find a spar varnish. Its been a while since I've done this; sorry, I can't remember any brand names
thank you you guys are great.
The Helmsman is probably the cheapest (about $35 a gal) and may last 3-4 years. Not the best in my opinion, but will do the job in a pinch.Been a long time, but I remember liking Man o' War quite a lot. If I recall, it was easy to work with and really brings out the wood grain. Looks like it's $45 a gal these days but will probably last 4 years easy. Sikkens Cetol is another brand, top of the line and quite pricey (over $60 a gallon). I believe it's guaranteed to last 5 years. The fumes are intense, stinky, and will last almost a week if applied indoors. The finish looks like a thin coat of hard plastic, like a boat deck.DC
I agree that the Sikkens is good (we use it on all our log work), but I've never been able to find one of their products without pigment in it. So if you want a clear semigloss I wouldn't recommend it.Who makes the Man 'O War product?Thx,Scott.
Valsparhttp://www.valsparglobal.com/val/resident/manowar.jsp
I just remembered one brand- McCloskey's Man o' War spar varnish. Although its been a number of years since I used it. The formula may have changed
Another brand I've heard of, but don't have any experience with is Epiphane's. But its supposed to be good.
"Epiphane's"My boss has had boats his whole life and swears by it.
Good. Like I said, I've had no real experience with it, but all I've heard about it were good things.
Nice to know my hearing still works <G>
I've done all our exterior fir doors with this:
http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/helmsman_spar_urethane.html
No complaints. They do semigloss and satin.
All the typical warnings about urethane apply: strain it for lumps and hair and junk, sand lightly between coats and wipe, be patient as you add coats, etc.
Scott.
Edited 9/4/2009 1:12 am by Scott
Don't know if you guys can get Sadolin in the States,but they do a product called extra durable clear coat,used it on some softwood joinery i fitted in a barn conversion on Dartmoor,and it's excellent.The client wanted to keep the natural colour of the timber which i thought would'nt be possible,but this stuff did the job,it does darken the timber slightly but no more so than you get with age.If your doors hardwood i would use danish oil,it really brings the grain out and gives a lovely sheen,but you do need to reapply regularly.