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I’m planning on hooking a woodstove to a through the wall clay thimble, into a masonry chimney. I wanted to thinset 1/4″ – 1/2″ slate to 1/2″ wonderboard screwed directly to the exterior wall studs. The stove could be as close as 18″ to the slate, and it’s a big, honkin’, double-doored, Grand Pa Bear Fisher. It’d mostly be for me ‘n Mrs. Snort to snuggle up in front of when I’m fellin’ a little lucky. Would I be lucky enough not to burn the house down, or just not have two fires going at once?
Living in “the love shack, baby, love shack,” BB
Replies
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Billy, try to get an airspace b/4 the studs if you can. No air space with the misses. Best of luck.
*If you screw this up, you'll be standing naked in the snow waiting for the fire truck? Joe H
*Calvin, dude, what you been drinkin', I want some.Got a suggestion on how to create dat air space, with the studs, not the missus. Misses are what I do to those galvanized hand drive trim nails Jack's pushin'.Thanks for confusing the hell out me though, BB
*bb, could you use hat channel between the backerboard and the studs, run at right angles to the studs? That would give you a standoff of an inch or so.
*Standing in the snow naked? It's actually been snowing all day here in central NC. Good thing I didn't put that stove in yet!Chuck, I could do the hat channel. I have done it for clients before, and it works just fine. I was hoping to keep this low profile, and just wanted to use a mantle shelf with no legs. The hat channel would make me have to do some sort of edge trim. That's why I was intrigued by the b/4 airspace, sure doesn't sound like much! Any simple, yet elegant ideas on that. It is my own house, and I am just a trim carpenter.Heat pumps aren't all that bad, BB
*b/4, between the wall and the cement bd? Misses, missus? What the hells the difference. Want to get critical? Try using all the letters in those words. At any rate, I'd use perforated, not perverted, hat channel. 18 inches of clearance to back and sides is no way close to what the stove manufacturer suggests I'm sure. Having used damn near all kinds of stoves in just about as many variations, installations and any other stations, I'd advise you be mighty careful. Give it room and keep bothering the wife. Best of luck. Shine.
*I always though a heat pump was something else entirely. Now that I know, I want to install one tonight!
*Calvin & Chuck, you're probably right on with the hat channel. Cal, howcome the perforated? Of course I'm familiar with the perverted, and, rather prefer it, but I don't mind holes. I could go 2'- 3' in the back, sides are 6'. What's your experience tell you to set a stove away from the back wall? I not looking to be careful, just safe.Know of any fire shield that could be put on the stud wall before the hat channel and backer board?Ms Snort sez hey, BB
*Billy, This opinion on the possibility of you burning your house down should in no way be considered advice on what to do. It is just something to think about.What's the book on the stove say re. clearances? You should follow their recommendations period. The slate on cem. bd will transfer the heat given off by the stove directly to what's behind it. Hence, following the suggested clearances. To limit the direct transfer, one could use the perf. hat channel with the whole system held off the floor and unsealed on the sides to allow air to wash the space between the cem. bd. and the wall. Still, this does not eliminate the transfer, only tempers it. I have used standoffs of this nature and others to create an unsealed airspace like we're talking about. Hold the channel or spacers in from the edge to keep from seeing them, and fasten the bd enough so it doesn't move around and crack your grout.Most shields I know about, (some asbestos) are non flammable but do transfer heat. So, the only idea I've come up with is the free air space to deal with the heat transfer.Remember, you and the missus (got it this time?) have to be able to get smooth and sleep at nite. Worrying won't help either one. Plan this out to your own satisfaction and follow the manufacturers spec. and above all, be safe.Phonetically yoursBC
*Calvin,I appreciate the concern and advice, and phonetic correctness. I've got no specs on the stove, had it since '76. I did have it hooked up in a house with plaster walls, and it was about 18" away at the back. No problems. I've got enough other stuff to keep me awake at night, and I don't need fire to be one of them.Stayin' cool, BB
*Well shitskys then, you got this figured out.Sittin next to the cracklin fire.
*Just don't be a sittin' on it!
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I'm planning on hooking a woodstove to a through the wall clay thimble, into a masonry chimney. I wanted to thinset 1/4" - 1/2" slate to 1/2" wonderboard screwed directly to the exterior wall studs. The stove could be as close as 18" to the slate, and it's a big, honkin', double-doored, Grand Pa Bear Fisher. It'd mostly be for me 'n Mrs. Snort to snuggle up in front of when I'm fellin' a little lucky. Would I be lucky enough not to burn the house down, or just not have two fires going at once?
Living in "the love shack, baby, love shack," BB