All-
Finally have started to do some interior work, and I’ve started with leveling the ceilings in the house. Both floors are about 2.5″ max out of level, so I’ve been sistering 6″ metal studs to the joists, which has been working well (especially since I got them (12 footers) for $3/ea). Being this house was built in 1893, the joists aren’t even remotely parallel or evenly spaced, so I am going to fir the ceiling perpendicular to the existing joists once I’ve finished leveling it.
So first, I had originally planned on using resilient channel to do this, but it’s really hard to find in this area, it’s either special order, or I’m not exactly confident that what I’m talking about is what they have (most places I’ve called have “channel”, but most of them think I’m calling about “hat channel”). Anyhow, is RC worth it, or should I just fir it with wood?
Next, can I run electrical parallel to the firring in the space that the firring will create between the drywall and the joists? I can’t find anything about it in the IRC.
Some pics, in case I’m doing a poor job of describing it:
http://mackzully.smugmug.com/gallery/4921288_3YH7o
Thanks,
Z
Replies
Since no one else is answering, I'll give this a shot.
I have never firred a ceiling with metal studs, but it seems like a good idea. I'm a little confused though--first you say you are sistering metal studs onto joists, and then you start talking about going across the joists with resilient channel.
I'm not sure you want to fuss around looking for resilient channel. It helps with soundproofing, but it isn't real fun to hang sheetrock from, especially the lid. Personally, I would use 1x strapping.
I'm thinking you can't run your electrical in such a space, unless the wire can run 1 1/4 from the face of the framing. I dealt with this once, and the electrician said the only legal way to do it (short of putting nail plates on somehow, was to fish a wire in the cavity. But codes and their interpretations vary, so you should call someone locally (like your electrical inspector) to answer that one.
good Luck
Hi Mac,
I did a similar ceiling last fall and it was actually part of the design. The ceiling in question was a (barely) pitched roof.... about 2" in 16'. We screwed 2x6 steel studs to the framing just as you've done and then strapped it with spruce 1x3 (strapping) perpendicular at 16" OC. We screwed the strapping to the steel studs with fine thread DW screws (self-tapping).
Here in MA you can run wiring in the 3/4" cavity that the strapping creates. But I know that in other parts of the country this wouldn't fly. So it's best to check with a local guy who knows the deal in your area.
TOH did an article that showed Tom Silva sistering some steel studs for leveling. Been wanting to try it since I saw it but the job has not come up. If your concerned about losing clearance ( I know what's 1/2") does anyone have any problems with going right to the steel studs without strapping.
Chuck
I, myself, would be wondering if screwing drywall to metal "studs" on a ceiling would hold the drywall--I guess it would. Anyway, why couldn't you sister something like 2x6's to the sides of the joists, bringing the bottoms of the sisters down to stringlines you've stretched across from the lowest existing joists? Lose less head room that way, maybe.
I don't see why couldn't go straight the steel studs, since at least in my case, I'd be going to metal RC1 anyhow. I need the strapping because my ceiling joists are not evenly spaced, nor parallel, some are 16" apart on one side of the room, and 14" on the other. I have 9'6" ceilings so losing a half inch doesn't bother me. The only problem I could see with going straight to the metal would be if you used a heavier stud like I ended up doing. I think the studs I got are at least 20Ga, perhaps even heavier, and I had to use self drilling mod truss screws to get them fastened to my existing joists. I can't imagine that it'd be easy or pleasurable to try getting the damn screws to drill while holding up the sheetrock. Z
I wouldn't forgo the strapping. With it, you can run you Drywall in full sheets with no but joints. Assuming that it's less than 12' like the Original post had mentioned.
RC-1 channel should be readily available at a Drywall supply house. Find a large commercial drywall company in your area and ask where they get their materials.
I straighten a lot of old house ceilings with RC-1 and I believe it is the only way to go. Easy, with added advantage of sound reduction.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I've called a couple in the DC Metro area and it's like I'm speaking Greek when I ask if they stock RC1. I get the same look when I ask for Roxul, even though I see them unloading tons of the stuff at all the new office buildings going up around me. Are there any other names besides RC1 that I can ask for?When using RC1, do you let the edges of the ceiling float?Z
Edited 5/13/2008 10:34 am ET by mackzully