Replies

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Sep 25, 2000 04:02am | #1

   *
   shim your studs.

   near the stream,

   aj

1. 
   Mad_Dog | Sep 25, 2000 03:28pm | #2

   *Just did a job with a similar problem, but using 1/4" ply did bring it out enough. Maybe you could use thicker plywood? AJ's shim idea is fine, but depending on your stud layout, 1/4" backerboard could use a little help behind it, and the thicker plywood would be a plus, both for this and for holding nails/screws.Good luck

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Sep 25, 2000 04:31pm | #3

   *shim your studs..... ala... aj..hardibacker in 1/4 inch is at least as strong as durock in 1/2 inch..

1. 
   Frank_Pierce | Oct 09, 2000 01:34am | #4

   *First question should be "How far away from the stud wall does the tub flange stand proud?" If the tub flange is tight to the stud wall, you'b be looking to transition about 1/8" over the flange. You should be installing a suitable membrane over the stud wall prior to installing your backerboard. Felt paper is fine, but bring the felt membrane over the flange. I would recommend using 1/2" DUROCK, which can be recessed at the tub edge to slip over the flange. Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade to recess (ie.,rabbet)the rock. You are correct is noticing that 1/4" Hardi-Backer is flimsy. Why spend the time and money to install plywood or shims when you could just buy 1/2" DUROCK and solve the problem? Hardi-Backer comes in two thicknesses. The 1/4" backer was designed for interior use over floors and countertops where height is a consideration. It can be used vertically on walls, but Hardibacker 500 at 1/2" is the recommended wall material. Neither product is suitable for steam or sauna applications. For more info, visit JamesHardi.com.

1. 
   Frank_Pierce | Oct 09, 2000 01:36am | #5

   *First question should be "How far away from the stud wall does the tub flange stand proud?" If the tub flange is tight to the stud wall, you'd be looking to transition about 1/8" over the flange. You should be installing a suitable membrane over the stud wall prior to installing your backerboard. Felt paper is fine, but bring the felt membrane over the flange. I would recommend using 1/2" DUROCK, which can be recessed at the tub edge to slip over the flange. Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade to recess (ie.,rabbet)the rock. You are correct is noticing that 1/4" Hardi-Backer is flimsy. Why spend the time and money to install plywood or shims when you could just buy 1/2" DUROCK and solve the problem? Hardi-Backer comes in two thicknesses. The 1/4" backer was designed for interior use over floors and countertops where height is a consideration. It can be used vertically on walls, but Hardibacker 500 at 1/2" is the recommended wall material. Neither product is suitable for steam or sauna applications. For more info, visit JamesHardie.com.

2. 
   Roger_Rushing | Oct 13, 2000 07:02am | #6

   *I just finished a bath with an americast tub and used the rabbetted method with L P Denshield. It worked pretty well, although I wish I had firred out the studs 1/4". The denshield has the vapor barrier on the face, so you know exactly where your water is going to go. It cuts alot easier than the other tile backers.

2. 
   GlennM_ | Oct 13, 2000 07:02am | #7

   *
   I'm using an Americast tub again, with a nice(!) high lip around it. Makes it real hard to bring board down low enough. Now using Hardi Backer board. Last time used 1/2". Tile setter told me to use 1/4" with 1/4" lathe to pack it out over the lip. 1/4" isn't enough. 1/4" board seems awfully flimsy.
   Anyone else have any experience with or suggestions for using these two products?