Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 29, 2004 10:28pm | #1

   The brickies oughtta install lead counter flashing, you or a roofer do the steps..( not the 12 steps, unless yer a drunk) then all ya do is bend up the counters and flash under them..

   Now if ya don't have a cricket, do it now. If ya don't know what a cricket is, get a roofer.

   A pan apron on the bottom , is needed too.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   dsr | Jul 30, 2004 02:30am | #3

     The twelve step meetings are only for the company I really don't have a problem.  I was wondering is the pan similar to base flashing, all the other advice seemed very straight forward thanks for the reply

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 30, 2004 05:50am | #9

   yup, a pan or base flashing is the lower apron, it is the same as you'd install in front of a dormer, I use 4'' (with a 1/2'', hem or crinkle, to flex to the shingles) and a 3'' up the chimney, to be counterflashed/w/ lead.

   It must be installed so that the uphill flashing laps over it, and bend the corner, to be anti-water. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   seeyou | Jul 30, 2004 01:42pm | #10

   yup, a pan or base flashing is the lower apron

    

   I always just call it an "apron".

2. 
   jonblakemore | Jul 29, 2004 11:18pm | #2

   You can use a grinder to make a kerf in the chimney. Then you fold a lip on the top of your counterflashing that will fit the kerf. Use a good quality roofing sealant to bed the flashing in the kerf.

   If you have to redo the chimney, install the flashing as Sphere says and bend it up to run shingles and steps.

    

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 30, 2004 02:50am | #4

   Forget the roofing sealant. If I were cutting into an existing chimney today to slip in conterflashings, I would use Geocell or a polyurethene caulk.

   but since this is a new chimney rebuild, the lead can be laid right into the courses 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   jonblakemore | Jul 30, 2004 04:43am | #6

   That's what I meant. I think alot of people are leery of "caulk" on the roof as they might think it's shoddy. "Sealant" to me sounds much more technical and appropriate. 

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Jul 30, 2004 05:03am | #7

   As does "fasteners" instead of drywall screws. <G>

1. 
   jonblakemore | Jul 30, 2004 05:27am | #8

   If you really want to wow them insert "piffin" before fasteners. They'll really think you're on top of things. 

   Jon Blakemore

3. 
   Shavey | Jul 30, 2004 03:38am | #5

   Heres some food for thought don`t take the chimney down..... just fold all the lead up and  inspect it for holes from the under side, you should be able to see day light thru  the lead .....try peeling the tar off any way you can without making any holes in the lead.Now there should be a secondary piece of aluminum  flashing  bent in an L - shape for each corse of shingles that pass the chimney which should be tucked under the lead and there should be lead under each course also so if there is`nt enough lead there you need to cut into the side of the chimmney and install new lead where ever needed.Now if you find any holes in your search  then by all means get that piece out of there and put in a new one.Make Sure you fold your lead into the groved brick a minimum of 1`` inch on each piece good luck and make sure you have good staging for yourself and you are comfortable before starting.