flashing roofs and nailing box sills
Question from the new guy,or two.
I need help settling an argument at work. I live in Maine and do most of our work here. my question is do you install drip edge on the rakes as well as the eaves. We sub all our roofs out and they install drip edge on the rakes but my buddy says that you dont,and to let it over hang half inch with out any ice and water going up the rake,just bare wood under the single.
also what method does everyone out there prefer. nailing your box sill to the mud sill and butting your floor joist to it and then nailing it off. or nailing the floor joist to the mud sill and then putting the box on and face nail it?
this is my first message im posting,and would love any input i could get thanks. payingmydues
Replies
I put drip edge on both the rake and the eave and I cut the shingles to hang over the drip edge about a half inch.
I do not put ice and water shield up the rakes, but I do run tar paper up to the edge of the rakes and put the drip edge on top of it.
I don't really qualify as an expert on the subject, but I think you will find most here do it as I described.
You mentioned shingles on bare wood....I think you will also find that most here consider that to be poor practice which is one reason why I would never do it. I figure I've got enough strikes against me to be intentionally performing poor practices.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
You NEED to have tarpaper and metal under the shingles up the rake no matter what part of the country you are in.
Islesboro, Maine
Welcome to Breaktime
Excellence is its own reward!
I often see the drip edge left off if there is a shingle mould. I don't like it - I insist on using drip on the rakes - shingle mould or not. I also like to hang my shingles an inch past the drip.
Of the hundreds of roofs I have torn off, only a few had no metal on the eaves. Those showed signs of water intrusion whether blown in or wicking by surface tension. .
Excellence is its own reward!
Piffen,
your comment is interesting,because my experience is exactly opposite to yours.
The houses we typically work on were built in the 1920's.
Generally we find no drip edge anywhere---neither on the gable/rake nor along the bottom edge. Usually a soldier course was run up the rake-----similar to a starter course at the bottom. We will frequently find a bad board along the bottom edge if the gutters are in bad shape-----but rarely if EVER do we find any signs of water infiltration along the rake----and it's even rarer that we have to replace wood along the rake. ( If we do replace wood along the rake it is generally for other reasons like splintered beadboard overhangs or sagging /improperly supported rake/eaves)
Of course we probably don't have the wind you probably have in your location .
Personally ,I like the shingle mold detail.
stephen , my experience is similar to piffen's.. anytime i find a roof without dripedge on the rake , i find peeling paint and rotted portions of rake , sheathing, and shingle mold..
further, i think roofs look better with the dripedge on all the edges... it looks more consistent.. and it is a preferred installation in the mfr's roofing manuals that i get..
i think no drip edge on the rakes was quite prevalent 20 years ago.. but around here drip edge on the rakes is standardMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I was looking forward to hearing from you on this one.
I rarely see asphalt shingles that old on houses, myself.
The signs of intrusion I see amount to the dust stain shadows that follow the drain lines at top of shingles along the tarpaper. It is only occasionaly that enough water penetrates this secondary barrier enough to even stain the wood itself, but it is not a comforting thought to know it has gotten in that far. It is the wind, for sure. In west Texas, hurricane alley, it was common to use a rake trim similar to gravel stop and cement the shingles down trimmed into it. The vertical side would resist wind along the rake.
I wouldn't lose sleep over not having metal rreim on the rake unless there was no tarpaper also..
Excellence is its own reward!
Mike & Piffen,
Remember that you guys are, I believe, ocean side and also in a older part of the country.
this is not really a high wind area---and my city was originally a canal town---then a factory boomtown.most of those houses built in the 1910's---1920's didn't have tar paper under either. on the other hand they were decked in solid 1x8 southern yellow pine. Most were originally in asphalt shingles---but with a much larger variety of shingle styles than now available(3 tabs,4 tabs,diamonds,octagons......)
I see examples of this each and every week when we tear-off----so I know what held up well in THIS area---but maybe not in YOUR area.
Needless to say-----we install drip edge on the complete perimeter now-a-days,30# felt. Icegaurd by the acre.