Hi gang,
I have a concern I would like a little feed back on. I have had great sucess on many tile progects in the past, but they were all horizontal projects with the exception of a few old 4×4 wall tile jobs. I have now started on a shower project and I am a little concerned with the flex in the durock backer-board. The framing is 16 0.C. and has been furred out to be flush with the nail flange on the tub. To keep the underlayment flush with the adjoining drywall I used 5/16 durock. I noticed a little flex in the product while installing it and I am worried it may cuase me some problems in the future, cracks, tiles popping off etc.. Can anyone give me any info on the amount of flex in the 5/16 durock in regards to the final results being sound. I would hate to rip it all out, (new tub sitting under it) but I want it right.
Replies
little concerned with the flex in the durock
I would be to, and I don't know what tile manuf. recomend
for backing, but instead of backing each stud, couldn't you
have used solid ply behind the durock to achieve the thickness
you desire or use 1/2" durock and use a bull nose tile where
it dies into the sheetrock. That would kill the difference
and you would have the full 1/2" that you need to keep the
rigidity up. You can add also latex to your mastic to help with
flex and strength.
Edited to add, welcom to breaktime and fill out your profile.
Stick around, alot of good info to be found here.
This post will bump your thread to the top and allow others
more smarter than me to respond also.
Edited 8/29/2005 11:21 am ET by butch
I READ AN ARTICLE ABOUT FURRING THE STUDS, THAT LEAD ME TO PERFORM THAT STEP. THE SOLID PLY WAS MY THOUGHT AS WELL WHEN I STARTED NOTICING THE FLEX, HOWEVER I WAS WELL INTO THE DUROCK APPLICATION WHEN THAT THOUGHT CAME TO MIND. THOSE DIRTY LITTLE FASTENERS EVERY 8 INCHES WERE THE ONLY THING STOPPING ME FROM TAKING IT DOWN AND PUTIING UP PLYWOOD. I AM LEANING TOWARDS TAKING IT DOWN AND PUTTING UP SOLID BACKING.
THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
Anybody else got any suggestions?Did you attach w/ screws or nails?Another thing is you might want to take it(durock) downand add tar paper behind your backer board.
Edited 8/29/2005 3:45 pm ET by butch
I think that 5/16 durock is for floors (when put on 3/4 plywood). You should use 1/2 durock for walls with studs 16" on center. You could use plywood backing, I have never had problems with just durock. In the past I would put tar paper behind, but in one of the past issue Tom Meehan said that he was having problems with mold in the durock and recommended a water proofing on top of the durock.
wyatt
First, yes you should go with 1/2", but as long as you're taking the Durock down, toss it. Second, go with Hardibacker 500 (1/2"). Third, remember all of these CBU's are water impervious, not water proof! Water will still go thru them, it just doesn't harm them. But you will need 4mil plastic or 15# feltpaper as a water barrier, and that should 'drip' inside the lip of the tub. Do not just put up plywood, it will lead to mold and mildew problems in a wall where you can't see it or get at it. Fourth, remember to leave a 1/4" gap between the CBU and the tub. Your tub will flex when it gets filled and expand when it's hot water. Fill this with a Tub/Tile silicone (not caulk)after puting in some foam backer rod. Lastly, seal the tile/grout after 3 days and then have a beer.
Just curious.
>>a water barrier, and that should 'drip' inside the lip of the tub. >>1/4" gap between the CBU and the tub. Your tub will flex when it gets filled and expand when it's hot water. Fill this with a Tub/Tile silicone (not caulk)after puting in some foam backer rod
How do the 'Drips' get out?
SamT,NOT a tile setter.