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I’m looking for product suggestions regarding a penetrating finish for new oak flooring. We don’t want a surface finish “polyurethane” look.
I’ve spoken with the local paint stores in our small town — most of the sales people are only familiar with surface-type finishes and are at a loss as far as recommending a product. One store suggested WATCO oil (which I’ve used quite a bit on furniture), but I was looking for other options, perhaps something specifically designed for floors.
Thanks in advance.
Brad D.
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I used to always say that wooden floors are just big pieces of furniture that you happen to walk upon. Not too much is made specifically for floors as much as it may just be packaged and marketed as such. Watco in a quart can is for furniture; Watco in a gallon can is for floors -- something like that. My floors had been finished with a polymerizing oil (don't know brand; didn't do it), and all I do is wax periodically with Minwax and a buffer.
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Check out Penofin at URL:
http://www.penofin.com/interiortip.htm
We used this on new and old, sanded oak floors this last year and are very pleased with the results. It buffs out to a nice sheen.
We had used Watco floor oil on the maple floors of a house we owned a while back and really liked that product, too. When we tried to locate a distributer last year we were told that in a skyscraper application discarded rags had self-ignited, causing a law suit that took the product off the market.
With any of this type of finish you need to dispose of the oil-soaked application tools according to directions.
*Brad,I've used Minwax Antique Oil Finish for furnature with good results. I agree with Steve that much of it is marketing. (A call to Minwax or Watco might be helpful concerning use on floors.) As long as you keep a coat of wax on the floor you'll be fine - but, at least in my house, clearing the floors and buffing on a coat of wax every six months is out of the question. I used poly.
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Brad,
Jim Blodgett of the crazy legs clan, has recently finished a project along those lines..I'm sure he can help you out.
*Has anyone here used a product called Waterlox? I've heard it is a good product. I would appreciate any opinions since I am planning on using it for the first time in the near future. http://www.waterlox.comJim
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Thanks for the responses, guys.
Jim -- I've never used Waterlox, but it has a good reputation in the woodworking community.
I plan to contact Penofin and Waterlox regarding using their products on floors.
Thanks again,
Brad D.
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Brad:
I have used Penofin in exterior applications and the odor is very strong and long lasting. When I do my decks every fall we can't open the windows for weeks due to the odor. You might want to check if their interior product has the same problem.
Jim
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I don't know about the exterior penofin products, but the interior oil didn't have any more or long lasting a smell than other oil-based products I've used. We did the last of our floors in November. Kept the rooms open for a day with fans in the windows and moved furniture back on the third day. If you can leave the room empty longer (5 or 6 days) it probably would be good.
*Hi everyone. What type of penetrating finish would you use on eight inch wide pine flooring ? I realize you have to apply it peridically but I do not want a surface film. Would a thinned down poly that is wiped off be better than oil? Thank you.
*Regarding the finish on wood floor, I recently put down a brand new red oak floor and finished it off with a commercial water based finish called “Street Shoe” . It is made by Basic Coatings for commercial applications such as ball rooms, restaurants, gymnasium floors etc. Their literature states that if installed in residential applications it is practically indestructible. We have a very active dog and so far no scratch marks whatsoever. I also really love the way it brought out the wood grain. We used the satin finish, love it. The stuff is not cheap, about $80 / gal but you get a good coverage, about 600 to 800 s.f. per gallon. Use a coat of Basic Coating sealer first. Visit their web site at: http://www.basiccoatings.com/
*We've been re-working oak floors in our ~100 yr old house (done about 2000 ft in last 4 months), and have put on 4 or 5 coats of Hope's tung oil varnish on each of them, followed by Varathane Diamone Floor/Wood Finish (this stuff is really hard when cured, although it's pricey ($40/gal). The first bunch we did (5 rooms) we used the water based version, but when I went back to get more for the second batch they appeared to have changed things somewhat, and the only one that said the magic word "floor" was the solvent based finish. Started off with a can of satin, but it was too flat, so I put another coat of semi-gloss over it, and we're really happy with the look. The solvent base is slightly more yellow looking than the water base, but since the wood's yellow looking anyway, that's no problem. Anyway, I'm not a professional finisher, but I've got a lot more hardwood floor than many people, and I've re-finished it all, and this is the best we've ever done.
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href="http://www.livos.com/>Livos last Fall on an end grain block floor and I'm gonna be usin' it again. It is easy to work with but the best part is it is made with citrus oils so you don't get ANY unpleasant odors, just a pleasant orange scent.
I used "Meldos", an all natural oil finish by
The third generation floor finisher who turned me on to it used it on his white oak floors 10 years ago and I couldn't believe how good a shape they are in today. Anytime you want you can just scratch more in with a buffer and steel wool. Great stuff.
Livos has a whole line of non toxic paints and stains.
*I've used Waterlox and like it a lot. Great for Bathrooms and kitchens. Nearly indestructible. And if it starts to show wear and tear you just wipe or brush on some more. It's a resin-modified Tung oil product. Needs to be buffed out to get a really smooth finish though. I just let the feet do the buffing over time.Steve
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I've used a variety of "Danish" type oils over oak and pine flooring. One of my favorites happens to be Watco, because it "colors" the wood less than some other brands. Normally two coats is sufficient to bring out the beauty of the wood. Danish oil works well because it seals the wood to a degree. After that it's just pure carnuba paste wax and a buffer. You will be waxing the floor on a fairly regular basis to keep it up, how often depends on the amount of traffic in the room(s) the flooring is in. The wax, same as the polyurethane will yellow over time (waxy yellow buildup) which will dull the look of the wood and the old wax will have to be stripped off. If you like the Danish-oil looks you've used on furniture you will probably be pleased with the results on the floor, but without the protection of varnish or polyurethane, you should just resign yourself to doing a bit more maintenance to keep them looking good.
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I'm looking for product suggestions regarding a penetrating finish for new oak flooring. We don't want a surface finish "polyurethane" look.
I've spoken with the local paint stores in our small town -- most of the sales people are only familiar with surface-type finishes and are at a loss as far as recommending a product. One store suggested WATCO oil (which I've used quite a bit on furniture), but I was looking for other options, perhaps something specifically designed for floors.
Thanks in advance.
Brad D.