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I am replacing my asphalt shingles with a metal roof. As I would like to add more insulation at the same time, I thought about installing 2×3’s above the sheathing, 24″ OC, and installing dense foam insulation between them. The metal roof would then be installed over this. The existing roof system is a 5/12 pitch, 2×8 rafters, cathedral. From inside out it’s Armstrong plank ceiling material, 3/4″ foil faced celotex, 6″ fiberglas insulation, and 3/4″ pine sheathing.
Should I anticipate any problems doing this? Is the additonal R value worth the trouble? The house is in northern New Hampshire, and it could use all the insulation it could get. Thanks for any help you can give me.
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you can get an insulated panel with OSB on the exterior, 3/4" air space just below the osb..
install the osb with screws and deck plates .. and your metal roofing right over the osb... the last roof we did with this system was an R-15 panel...with asphalt shingles installed ..
*Rather than screws and plates - which I have only seen as hex-head versions. I would suggest the insulated panel fasteners, Same thread, but the head is pancake, about the size of a nickel.-Rob
*Not only do those all-in-one panels reduce the labor involved, but they nicely convect away the hottest air from under the OSB sheathing. And in winter, the shingles don't get heated from underneath so ice dams are largely eliminated. -Davdi
*makita 10"compound slide??? is this the best trim saw on the market.
*makita 10"dual compound miter saw?? is this the best trim saw on the market. how do all of the features(accuracy, durability) compare to other similiar brands? thanks and happy building!!
*do U really expect an answer to that in the middle of a roofing and insulation thread?Go here:http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?9@@.ee7d264.ee6f47b
*Can I tack on a related question?We're planning on redoing our roof in the next year or two with metal roofing as well. Currently the second floor is a half-story bedroom. On each side there are knee walls (is that the right term?) that are insulated with un-insulated storage/crawlspaces behind them. (just vented).So, as it is now, we have a lot of roof vents that are going to make putting a metal roof on kind of a pain, plus, I'd like to convert the current storage spaces into conditioned storage spaces.I was thinking that when it came time to replace the roof, we'd do a complete tear-off, add the OSB/Insulated Panel, Roofing felt, 1x1 purloins, and then the metal roofing materials.Is there any gaping holes in my logic there? Am I correct in understanding that the OSB panels will provide enough insulation to negate the need for roof vents between rafters and elimnate heat leaking through to the underside of the metal roofing (causing Ice Dams)?
*DarrelNot sure you would need the purlins, but I've only had limited experience with metal. Anyone else got any opinions on that?Also, how steep is the pitch? Around these parts metal roofs shed the snow so fast that ice dams are not a problem.Steve
*Steve:Well, I'm certainly not a roof expert, but from what I've read, some recommend the purloins to allow the underside to vent as in hot, humid summers there can be a lot of condensation on the underside.It's a pretty steep roof about a 12/12 pitch. We don't really have an Ice damn problem now except on a North-facing valley. The big benefit I was looking for with the foam sandwich was to elminate the need for roof vents (and add some more insulation to the roof).
*might check with an engineer to make sure your roof can support the load of more OSB sheathing. while you will lose weight from the asphalt shingles to the metal roof, you will increase weight from more OSB.one consideration to take into effect, a sagging roof isnt pretty.
*You have a link to a manufacture for that panel??
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I am replacing my asphalt shingles with a metal roof. As I would like to add more insulation at the same time, I thought about installing 2x3's above the sheathing, 24" OC, and installing dense foam insulation between them. The metal roof would then be installed over this. The existing roof system is a 5/12 pitch, 2x8 rafters, cathedral. From inside out it's Armstrong plank ceiling material, 3/4" foil faced celotex, 6" fiberglas insulation, and 3/4" pine sheathing.
Should I anticipate any problems doing this? Is the additonal R value worth the trouble? The house is in northern New Hampshire, and it could use all the insulation it could get. Thanks for any help you can give me.