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I use a cordless DeWalt saw on the roof, and the only thing I consider dangerous about it is the possibility of dropping it (bad for saw and the guy underhead!)
MD
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The pain and blood stories we all need to hear every now and then just to keep us thinking about our appendages.
The framing trick that I like, is to do a little pre- planning and run all of the wall layout with the joists and rafters. I start with my common rafter and lay the first stud under the rafter, the joist goes an inch and a half one way or the other. There is no easier way to lay the roof out than on the plates when they are on the ground.
Back in the early 70s I was framing little one valley cookie cutter types with studs, joists and rafters all 2 feet on center, it was too easy.
brisketbean
*Not really a framing tip, but goes along with it. When you nail the bottom of the drywall into the plate, line those nails up with the centers of the studs so the guys who hang cabinets and nail trim, etc. know where the studs are. (It may be you). I nail the bottom row because you can ruin the chucks on screwguns if they rub on the floor, even a little
*b Changing Wall Height> "I am considering taking off the roof of a samll ranch house to add upstairs bedrooms. Is there any easy way to raise the ceiling height to 10 ft from 8 ft without tearing down all the existing walls? Any suggestions appreciated.
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Yep, get a crane, prefab some ladders, cut back the plywood, have your electrician extend the wiring, and your plumber extend the vents, pick up the roof as a unit, pop in the ladders, put the sheathing back on so it ties the new wall extension to the lower wall, add some H2.5 clips to tie the roof system back to the new walls, add some transom windows over the old windows, move the headers up into the ladder extension, trim ,and side, insulate, plaster ,and paint and you're done........two days, MAX.
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Speed without quality is like a cord without power.
Obviously, overlapping and double cutting is a superior method of roof sheathing, where the roof layout does not allow for full sheets. However it is to be expected that there will always be framers how can not or will not behave professionally. This is why the good ones can provide references, eh?
*A small coffee can filled w/ concrete. tie wire in a loop poked back into the concrete. works real well for snapping lines alone.
*Has anyone heard of an awl? Or a squangle?
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Sure, why do you ask?
*We simplify things a lot down here.For an awl, we tell the helper to go get the "scratcher" if we are using it to mark flashing, or tell them to go get the "poker" if we plan on using it to poke with. Sometimes they have a hard time figuring out that they are both the same thing. Tell them to get the awl, and they look at you with a distant, glazed look. It amazes me sometimes that most of the young helpers I've had have no idea what most tools are called. I once even took a white out pen and wrote the name of each tool on the tool itself, in plain view. I thought for sure it would help them find the right tool I sent them after. Boy was I wrong.Now I work by myself, with my wife helping me whenever I need a helper. I sure enjoy it more now. Just my opinion...James DuHamel
*awl-yessquangle - huh?
*Ryan - the Squangle was kind of a forerunner to the speed square. It had a long tongue that pivited through the handle. You could lock this tongue to any degree or roof pitch. It was really a handy tool, but kind of awkward to carry around because of the length of the tongue. A lot of guys used to slip them between their belt and the small of their back. You've probably seen them before, and just don't recognize the name.
*Speed Square makes one like that. I though it was a new idea. I guess there really are no new ideas left.squangle- square/angle. I get it.
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How bout it!?
Here's one;
On framing overbuilds.
precut the ridge, rafters(layout the ridge from the sloped cut to the gable or girder, whatever)and sheating(4 at a time). Dont worry about making the long rafter on layout towards the existing roof. let it land where it wills. Then start from your valley and work your sheating toward the gable or girder. The square end of your sheating will miss your rafter, leave it alone for know. Sheat to the ridge always working from the valley out,overlapping the ply as needed.Once sheated you can then return with your saw to cut the doubled areas.
What do you all think?...
Anyone have any slick,fast method to plate and detail?( the Haun approach didn't seem all that great to me.)
Rob
*I think I need a picture!!!
*Hey! If I knew how to send a picture I would! do you know how?p.s. I'm not sure that I would be able to clarify anything by my drawing abilities.
*Ok I expected to get all kinds of responses to this topic, but I guess it needs a little priming.trick #2. When laying out your floor by snapping lines be sure to go to japan and get this nifty little ice pick looking needle with a plastic handle. Because you dont have to pull out your hammer and drive a nail every time you want to snap a line.
*Yeah, well I think that neat little trick of double cutting the overlapped sheeting leads to slopiness. The SOBs did that on my roof and it showed. During a recent reroof, I had to resheet or sister some rafters because the jerks couldn't--or didn't care to--cut a straight line. Even after taking the time to snap a line.Anything for speed, eh?
*to dangerous using a saw on a roof...why add the element of risk when its unnecessary?
*Speed is good! Sloppiness is not!and it is possible to be effecient and clean.
*Lots of guys work alone. (good to see you back) - jb
*Sharpen both ends of your pencil!
*Ok this is a good one!!!which means that some of you other farts aught to buck up and share! take your speed square and drill holes to fit an 8 penny nail to do your long cuts and to mark your rafter tails on your most common pitches
*Another guy was sayin' he uses stair gauges for that. Both of you have a good idea there.
*Study the plans before you get the job done!
*Or even before you start! :-)Rich Beckman
*I use a cordless DeWalt saw on the roof, and the only thing I consider dangerous about it is the possibility of dropping it (bad for saw and the guy underhead!)MD
*OK Arky !Best Cats Paw ! We call them a yamaguchi cause someone said that they were a Japanese design, but Vaughn makes them and you can get them in sizes from 6" to 18" . my favorite is 10".How do I know it's the best ? Cause its the one that always gets asked to dance ! Overlap your sheathing and cut both at once ?---you've been going to too many trade shows and watching the dudes with the Popeye forearms and the wormdrives. But the rest of it works great, 8' straight edges help too !
*Mike, do I detect a preference for those left handed sidewinders? Opposites might attract; I believe that right coasters predominately use sidewinders, left coasters use worm drives. I don't like to cut on steeper roofs because the sawdust makes the roof more slippery. Joe
*Yes Joe, except I have a right hand sidewinder (and a left and a Skill worm Drive) I bot the worm from a guy brand new for $100, with a case, about ten years ago and it's STILL practically brand new. I keep my Porter Cable on the job for all the upside down cuts and my guys all keep their whatevers (left hand sidewinders ) for 99% of the action. But speaking from the right coast (and I do mean the correct coast), I would guess you already know that its worms to the left and snakes to the right.
*Here's one for you guy's,try and lose your cats paw in your truck cause you don't use but once a month,just kidding.Can anyone tell ne the ultimate trick to framing,hiring and keeping good help,and how to motivate a crew to put it at least into 2nd or 3rd gear.But really you can just cut a wedge about six inches long and two inches tall, and drive it between any two sticks that weren't (IS THAT RIGHT) nailed right the first time.
*Here'as another one, sheet your floor so that your seams align with your layout corner.This way you can just pull your stud layouts from the seams ,saving a few trips to the edge of the floor.This way you can also have the new guy put the studs in with reasonable confidence they will be right,and give junior a boost in his self esteem.HAPPY HALLOWEEN.
*BUY A PNEUMATIC GLUE GUN !!!!!
*Keep your beer in the shade.
*Don't spit into the wind.
*Don't pull the mask off the ol' Lone Ranger
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Joseph Fusco View Image
*Check for bee's before doing a guzzle!
*How about making a right angle template for 16" and 24" overhangs?I think I'll try it tomorrow :-]
*( From a Fish Called Wanda )" don't eat the green ones "
*Here's a good one!Make your invoices professional looking, and dont fax them, mail or hand deliver them!oh ya, dont forget to promise less but deliver more."What we say is important... for in most cases the mouth speaks what the heart is full of."Jim Beggs
*Framing Tips?........ Never use the addage that it's close enough, take the time to do it right. If you're running a crew, everyone should have the same brand tape measure. Plumb bobs and 3-4-5 right triangles don't lie. If this is too much for you, go back to your vinyl siding job.
*One trick: DO NOT hit your left index finger with a 22 oz. checker faced framing hammer when setting a 16d spike. The hammer's resemblance to one of those meat tenderizer mallets becomes all too apparent. (I'm all better now, in case you were wondering.)
*It was always my middle finger. But the worst part is, then the danged thing gets swollen, and you are constantly resmackin' it for about three days...and you have to finger nails with that hand...and you loose feeling in it and keep dropping you sandwich on the deck...and...
*And when you take a big pull off your beer and your mustache catches in the pull tab and you tear out a bunch of hairs.And when your fingers are sticky with glue and you go to take a drag off a cigarette and you pull the burning end up between your fingers and burn the hell out of them and they get infected.
*Better to hit your finger with a checker faced hammer than a smooth one. The checker faced hammer tears it open and allows it to bleed, while the smooth faced hammer just smashes it, causing blood to accumulate in a huge and painful blood blister.
*Or the nail driving contest at the Home Builders clam bake. When macho man missed the nail but found his thumb. U NO, wind up way over your head and smack it so you can set it in one drive--------- WOW !That was the same one where the guy who started drinking beer at 10 am was peeling the necks off his clams by 2 pm and throwing the clams away so he could swallow the necks........ I think he kept 'em down for at least a half hour.
*Guys, these are all great framing tricks and stories. Let's get some others to join in, and leave this topic for actual homebuilding framing tricks. I started a new topic i Breaktime called "Accidents worth talking about (or not so great moments in building history)". See you there.But first, here's one more:My bud thought the worst framing accident would be to drywall screw his left hand (right through the web between thumb and index finger) to the ceiling when hanging rock. Actually, he said the worst was when he had to switch the gun to reverse and back out the screw.
*arkbldr: what happens to the underneath cutoffs? don't they fall down to unsuspecting bystanders, roofs, ceilings, or whatever? Otherwise, the method seems like it would save time since wouldn't need to switch from nailer to saw but once. Never tried it, though I did something like it on a floor once and it seemed to work okay, but I could pull offcuts out from under.
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I used to sheet roofs the same way, with a twist. Instead of measuring the bias between the top and bottom of the sheet, orient the sheet so it will lay wrong side up. Put the 8' side in the valley. Slide the sheet up the valley until the top corner passes the ridge. Let go of the sheet. Chalk a line directly over the ridge, and cut the sheet along this mark. When you flip the sheet over, it will fit in the valley perfectly, and you never touched your tape. With a little practice, you can measure how long the longest dimension needs to be, and push the sheet farther up the valley. This way, you can cut the sheet once, leaving the factory square edge alone. Along the roof sheeting theme, you can pre-mark the sheeting before the bands are cut from the bunk. Layout the top and bottom sheets of the pile. Tack a 2x to your marks, and spray paint the edges. As you lay the sheets, look for the marks on the top edge. It is not a bad idea to run a 100' tape after each row to double check. Working by yourself, it is easier and safer to drag sheeting up a ladder to the roof if you use a big C- clamp as a handle. Detailing plates, I used to like to carry a center finding tape to lay out windows, and doors. Find the centers with a big tape, whip out your centering tape to mark where the king studs will fall. No math = no errors.