Replies

1. 
   stinger | Nov 25, 2005 10:57pm | #1

   Fill in your profile, Floyd, so we can tell where you are.

   Location can make a difference here.  Building a door for use in Minot, ND, would entail a completely different set of design parameters versus a door for use in San Antonio.

   That said, most doors would have what is referred to as a "stave core," and what that means is that a large glued-up panel is made by edge-joining boards, maybe 3-1/2" widths, to get the door-sized core.  Pine, spruce, and fir are used a lot.

    

1. 
   floyd | Nov 28, 2005 06:05pm | #8

   I live in the chicago land area.  I had a friend suggest LVL's that they use for house construction edge it, flat joint it and then veneer over that what do you think?

1. 
   wane | Nov 28, 2005 06:22pm | #10

   I've been putting off a similar job for a while.  The door I am replacing is 2 1/4, solid built up core, with 3/8 veneer front and back, it weighs a tonne (hint, get 4 really big hinges).  I plan on using a recycled "case" lock about the size of a pocket book.  The other thing to consider is that shaper and router bit sets for doors are only available up to 1 3/4 - 1 7/8, that means you'll thickness everthing first, find reversible profiles and do some real acurate setups for both faces of the rails and stiles.  Then there is the issue of finding 10/4 stock, not to mention the price ...

   I don't think LVLs would work too well, especially since 1 side would be warm, the other cold, trying to edge join, let allone screw into the side for hinges ..

2. 
   stinger | Nov 28, 2005 06:24pm | #11

   I wouldn't use LVL (laminated veneer lumber) but I would use TrusJoist's LSL (laminated strand lumber.)

   LSL is sold by most lumber suppliers in widths such as 9.5", 11.875", 14", and up to 18".  As a rimboard for a floor deck, it comes in thicknesses of 1-1/8", and I believe 1-1/2".  TrusJoist also markets it as framing stud material, sold in long lengths, at sizes equivalent to 2x4 and 2x6.  I think I saw a framer using it in 2x12 size for rafter stock.

   LSL material is used by some door manufacturers as cores for stiles and rails, but I don't know of any using it for a full slab core.  I don't see why you couldn't use it in your application, though.

   The beauty of LSL is that it is made in very large panels, and surfaced with big equipment to ensure flatness and dimension.

2. 
   Piffin | Nov 25, 2005 11:16pm | #2

   MEDEX

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Sphere | Nov 26, 2005 12:32am | #3

   Got a lockset in mind that will fit that thick? Just wondering.

     Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    

   " Nie dajê siê olœniæ statkami parowymi i kolej¹ ¿elazn¹. Wszystko to nie jest cywilizacj¹. - Francois Chateaubriand (1768 - 1848) "

1. 
   stinger | Nov 26, 2005 03:06am | #4

   Two and a quarter is a standard for everyone in hardware . . . Baldwin, Schlage, Emtek, etc., all have locksets that will go in doors of that thickness.

   Most high end houses, really high enders, have all their interior doors at one and three quarters, and the exteriors at two and a quarter.

   What did you see inside when you reroofed that big Gainesboro job out in horse country?

1. 
   Sphere | Nov 26, 2005 03:22am | #5

   I never got inside...they are rich folks, barely said hi.

   I don't claim to be up on what is standard in high end homes, I just know that 1 3/4 is pretty much what to expect for an entrance door..and the screws on locksets CAN accommodate a thicker slab...but we had a poster here a while back ( trying to lam over a SC) and woulda had troubles.

   I will just say, that the locksetter best be on his game on a fatter door, and 8/32 screws can be had in longer sizes if the need arises.

   Any home made door needs special attn, I was pointing out the need to address the lock set up,are you ok with that?  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " Everything looks like a nail, to a hammer"

1. 
   stinger | Nov 26, 2005 04:56am | #6

   You are right, of course.  If you are going to scratchbuild your front door, you ought to think it all the way through the hardware.

1. 
   Sphere | Nov 26, 2005 05:29am | #7

   C'est Bon.

   I have a nightmare of when I had to bore a lockset that was top and bottom actuated bolts..twin slabs, BAlly Block maple slabs, 3/0 8/0 counter top type slabs..Amy Zaffarano's dad  ( she wrote a book on windows and doors, in the 80's).

   Well after all the drill bits broke, I ripped the slab and made a dado, in each part..installed hardware, and glued it up again..moment of god send ...

   That was 1 3/4 rock maple...it sucked.

   I also made the doors in her book, at "Thornhurst" in Center Valley , PA, Lynn Kraft, My art teacher in High School...  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " Everything looks like a nail, to a hammer"

2. 
   razzman | Nov 28, 2005 06:20pm | #9

   Sphere, post some pics of the doors in her book 'Thornhurst'.

    

    

   be well hung 

   'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity

3. 
   Sphere | Nov 29, 2005 01:52am | #13

   The book is not called "Thornhurst" the HOUSE is..The Book is "custom windows and doors"  I'll see what box it is packed in, I still am not there yet here as far as the library..but when I dig it out I'll scan a pic..it was in Black and white if I recall.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " Everything looks like a nail, to a hammer"

4. 
   DanH | Nov 28, 2005 07:57pm | #12

   Considering the weight, and to get some insulation into it, I think I'd build an eggcrate frame of some sort and fill the holes with foam.

   Whatever you do, take care to get it flat.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?