John Spier wrote a nice piece on building a cornice return in the March 07 edition of “Master Carpenter”
I have a second home that I built that I’d like to remodel with overhanging gable ends and returns (similar to his photo on pg 138) before I have a standing seam metal roof put on. I was thinking that most all the support for the overhang comes from the plywood sheathing on the roof. If I replaced every other section of plywood sheathing (essentially the 4′ end sections) and screwed the overhang framing to the end rafter would that be enough to support the overhang? I hesitate to tear up too much of the roof. Plus, I have a quite a few roof lines (dormers etc) so it’ll be a bit of work.
I’ll add that I’m an amateur carpenter, but there isn’t much I haven’t done or would be willing to take on, project wise. Just takes me a bit longer!
Thank you,
Keith McKInley
[email protected]
Replies
No, the support isn't just from the sheathing. Typically, you cut a notch in the end rafter and in one or two next to it for 2x4 supports. These are inset into the rafters and laid flat. They extend out as far as you want the eave to extend. The roof sheathing is nailed on top of them. You also cut the end two rafters short by 1.5" and nail a 2x section across them. It extends out as far as the eave and supports the lower end of the eave. Some people leave this out and just extend the 1x sill that covers the rafter tails.
In cases in which there is no soffit under the extension, you usually see ornamental brackets holding it up. These are not there just for ornamentation.
George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service
What method would recommend for doing this after the fact? What about the way I mentioned by possibly cutting out a section of the plywood every 4 feet back to the second rafter and notching the end rafter as you described?Thanks
Keith
That's what I would do.George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service
What the poster is referring to Keith, is what I think is called a lookout. I think that they really help prevent sagging. If the trim is removed from the gable rakes, you can wrap metal strapping around the boxes which would help. Nail the straps to the gable rafters, then fold them over and nail them to the subfacsia, or face, of the boxes. Then go with your original plan with the plywood and that should work well. What is the depth of the overhang?
Dustin
Thanks for the response Dustin! I think most times that end rafter is dropped down to accommodate 2x6 or 2x4 framing that is nailed into the last rafter (say 16" back from the gable wall) and in turn rests on top of the rafter on the gable wall before overhanging the desired width. Notching seems unnecessary but I can see why it could be done that way. Then again that's why I professed my amateur status!In any case.I like your idea as my over hang will be under a 12"Keith