Hi, my name is Nils Nordstrom and I am new to the forums. I am in the middle of insulating and fixing up my garage. I am trying to decide what to put on the ceiling. The roof is not made of trusses and the rafters are on 24″ centers. The pitch is about 5/12 and I want to be able to do this mostly by myself, so I don’t think drywall is going to be a good idea. Collar ties and other obstructions would get in the way of a panel lift. The thoughts I have had so far are white plastic dust barrier and 1/4″ tempered hardboard. Does anybody know if this would sag on 24″ centers? Would I need a lot of (or any) blocking, and what kind of fasteners would be the best? It doesn’t have to look great, I just want it to be white for reflectivity. Thanks for any suggestions.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Fine Homebuilding's editorial director has some fun news to share.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Nils, yes it will sag. sheet rock really is what you should use in this application. You will have to add some strapping anyway to use hardboard, use that same strapping crosswise and then run your sheetrock screws into that..
Actually what I would do is put the insulation up under the rafters and then put sheet rock on top. sure you won't have a flat ceiling but that's not all bad, the white sheetrock will reflect light and then you still will have the space above to work out of.. you'll be amazed at how many times an 8 foot ceiling will get in the way of some project but having a vaulted ceiling will allow that project to proceed..
Trusses AND collar ties ???
You can't have both.
"NOW she opens her mouth"
Dang it Boss, clean your glasses. He said it's not made of trusses.
Nils ... the T-111 ply would work well, and you could rip it into 16 or 24" x 8 ft pieces so it would be easier to handle. Or rip sheetrock into 24" wide pieces.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Oops - Didn't see the "not" word. Must be Freudian - I assume EVERYONE uses trusses.(-:Seriously - I actually saw my optometrist last night. He said I now need "progressive lenses". Can't use the "B" word anymore - Isn't PC.
ADAM TO EVE: Hey! I wear the plants in this family!
Thanks for all the ideas. I didn't think of ripping sheets in half, but that might make sheetrock more manageable. I would probably want to go 5/8" on the ceiling right? I might also try and get some help when installing it. Does anybody have any tips for working with sheetrock alone?
Did the same thing to the underside of my garage roof--stick rafters 16 OC --R-13 batt and I couldn't afford to give up my roof starage space---check into the high strenght 1/2 rock for 24 "OC --lighter and rip in half--more seams but MORE easyGood luck and welcome to BT--be nice and don't YELL and you will be surprised at how much these guys and gals will help.Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
or the foil covered foam...
how come nobody told him about a DW lift???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Oh yeah I know that stuff--just forgot about that . Will a DW lift reach that high?At the wall is less than 8 but the peak is probley 12 or more. on my garage..What I remember about that stuff is not to cut it with a c-saw--the reenforsing fibers were worse than FG " I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
all depends how many extensions you want to add...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Not sure why you are installing your ceiling against the rafters instead of to the collar ties themseves to begin with. I assume you want the extra hieght between the collar ties. Are the ties spaced at the same intervals as the rafters?
If you did not want to buy a lift and the spaceing between the collar ties is good enough you could get the sheets on top of the collar ties then slide them into place. You could then use a 2x4 with a piece of plywood nailed to the top and lift the sheet into place. With some planning you could cut the 2x4 with ply installed to the right hieght to wedge the sheet in place until nailed or screwed.
You should end up with a 2x4 about 9 ' long for the first row of sheathing.
You would be advised to have a helper ready for this project for sure. You will have less seams to contend with and save your back.
Good Luck
just use plywood. drywall would not last in a garage
Never used one so I am in the dark on how they work--the small 15-20 sheet stuff I get stuck with is a quicky with one other semi-knowlagable guy. Hope I never have so many sheets to hang that I think about renting one.Kinda like a roofing gun." I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
You don`t think drywall is a good idea.......why?
You should have some collar ties.
How bout 1/2" T1-11? Won`t sag at that span....light in color....durable...you can hang things from it.
ATTENTION FELLOW BREAKTIME MEMBERS:
If you`d like to discuss topics other than home building, come on down to the Woodshed Tavern. Great bunch of guys and gals letting off a little steam about everything and anything. Its not a special club, but.....as of Monday, March 14, the Tavern folder will go behind an access wall. Only those who request access to this folder by contacting [email protected] will be able to view and participate in discussions there.
I am assuming you want to fasten to the bottom of the rafters.
I put up 1" foam-board insulation.
Easy to install... with screws and washers every so often for fasteners. I was able to get some stuff that already had a mostly white covering. The anal-retentive in me... I foamed the joints and scraped the excess. It's also VERY light-weight.
At some point, I will ask my paint store what might be an acceptable paint to make it look all purty... but I'm in no big hurry to do so.... it looks "acceptable" as is.
Just a suggestion.
Nils,
Well your not quite a newbie, but seeing as how this is your first posting, welcome to Breaktime.
Airless sprayer and exterior white gloss Latex?
1 1/2" foam board? Then paint?
Aluminized foam board, the paint the collar ties industrial green? The High Tech Industrial look, ya know? Spot lites above the ties, pointing up. . . Yeah. . . A disco ball hung from the ridg. . . Oops, got carried away for a minute.
Seriously, there is nothing structural here, so lt your imagination run. If you really want something typical (sorta, you're leaving the ties exposed) 1x3 strapping and 1/2" DW. Insulate or not as you prefer, (just leave vent space above the insul.)
SamT
I did my shop ceiling in 29 gauge white steel paneling (think machine shed siding). It's relatively light, no taping or painting-cost about same as drywall, paint and materials-no labor figured. Tip- Pre drill holes for screws. I already had insulation in place, but I would panel entire ceiling and leave off panel at peak and use blown in cellulose. My shop is insulated with cellulose. I would not use fiberglass again-there is such a difference in noise suppression, air infiltration and comfort.
Bob
Today I was insulating in the garage and I think I have a hybrid solution, but I thought I would run it by you guys. One side of the garage is a loft (underneath is an outdoor patio) where I plan to store my lumber (I am more of a woodworker than a carpenter, but an amateur at both). Here I was thinking of puting 7/16" OSB and painting it white (it's pretty cheap at $13 a sheet in my area). This is so that I don't poke a board through my drywall or insulation. The rest of the garage I am going to leave for now, and then come back with some help and put up drywall. There is a horizontal 2x4 that will break the transition between OSB and drywall, but again, it's more functional than aesthetic. Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks,
Nils Nordstrom