Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 2000 03:34am | #1

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   Just a guess:

   The old spring was not as strong as a new one? If the problem is the rollers binding, grease the rollers, replace the bad bearings, replace bad rollers, or replace rough track.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 19, 2000 03:43am | #2

   *John,Thats kind of hard to troubleshoot from here. Since it seems that the symptoms started with the broken spring, it would seem that the door not balanced on both sides. But if the springs are the same and under the same tension as you describe this would seem odd. First, try the obvious if you haven't done so. Disconnect the opener and see if the door opens freely and is balanced properly. If it is too heavy or too light you may get herky jerky movement in your opener. If this doesn't help you may have hinges binding,loose and or stuck wheels, etc. Garage doors are not terribly complicated but it may be worthwile to call a door co. I worked for one many moons ago and learned that big springs under tension are dangerous. Be careful.Tom

2. 
   Rick_O | Mar 20, 2000 06:22am | #3

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   First lower your garage door and disconnect the automatic opener. Let all tension off the springs,CAREFULLY. When both springs are fully slack check the position of the door relative to the tracks. Make sure the springs are on the correct side, they should be tagged R(right) or L(left). Ensure the door is square, plumb and even in the opening and that the cables are the same length. When you have the door set properly, re-tension the springs with 2 turns per door panel as a rule of thumb. Adjust this as necessary until the door raises and lowers with equal amounts of effort and re-connect your automatic door opener.

   NOTE: I am not a garage door pro, just been there and done that. Remember, take your time with those springs.

   Rick

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 20, 2000 01:43pm | #4

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   Is it possible you wound the new spring backwards??

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 20, 2000 02:56pm | #5

   *Rick,If you read the original post, although not explicitly stated, it clearly describes a extension springs which are typically installed on each side of the upper track. The procedure for releasing tension on these is to block the door in the upper position and then remove, replace or otherwise adjust tension on the spring. Another typical garage door balance is called a torsion spring. They are what you and the next poster refer to. A torsion spring can be identified by the axle and spring(s) above the garage door head jamb running horizontally in the same plane as the door. The procedures for releasing tension on these is different than for extension springs and requires the proper winding bars to perform safely. Both types can mess you up. Fortunately it sounds like the original poster already understands this. For everyone else out there DO NOT TRY AND RELEASE TENSION ON EXTENSION SPRINGS WITH THE GARAGE DOOR DOWN!!! And do not attempt to work on your garage doors unless you have a thorough understanding of how they work. Another reason to call a professional is that many doors are booby trapped and jury rigged by cheap bozos that thought(emphasis)they could outsmart their garage door. By the way, for those of you who find yourselves giving answers without listening to the question or without adequate knowledge of the subject mattter, put your orange apron back on at get down to the local Home Depot, you're late for work again.Tom

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 20, 2000 11:29pm | #6

   *In addition to what Tommy B. had to say, the door hardware could be tweaked out of alignment and rubbing/binding. One way to correct this is to close the door - release the power operator. Take a wrench to every single bolt and nut on the hinges and track and loosen them to the point of just being slightly more than finger tight. Operate the door manually a couple of dozen times and then re-tighten everything. This will work most everything back in alignment.

4. 
   Steve_Bond | Mar 21, 2000 12:45am | #7

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   As an aside, it's a good policy to run a piece of door cable from an eye bolt in the framing of the door, loosely down the center of an extension spring, and to another eye bolt in the other end of the door track framing.

   This safety cable could save a life and won't cost more than 6 or 8 bucks per door.

   Steve

5. 
   John_Grimes | Mar 21, 2000 02:48am | #8

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   I have a automatic electric garage door with two large coil springs on each side to help counterbalance the load of the door (wood). I recently replaced one of the springs because it broke. But then the door appeared to bind and would shake semi-violently as it raised or lowered. I then got another new spring, same size and rating, and installed that one. Everything seemed to be k. Then it began the same deal. The springs are pulled to the same length when the door is closed based on measuring from the front wall to the spring hook. My guess is that somehow the tension is not correct and the door is jamming momentarily and then oscillating between jammed and not jammed a few times as it traverses the door tracks. Anyone got an idea how to troubleshoot this problem?? John Grimes ([email protected])

6. 
   Guest_ | Mar 21, 2000 02:48am | #9

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   I just couldn't pass on this one. Especially after what Tommy (3.1) had to say. Tommy is so right, ya know. The safety cable Steve mentions (6.0) is mandatory in these parts.