I am about to intall low-voltage lighting in our garden and I want to do it so that the light fixtures stand firm and upright over time. It seems like the provided stakes just don’t do the job.
I was thinking about cement-filled coffee cans or something similar as an anchor.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Richard
Replies
Sounds good to me. I'd make it so you could remove them when you want in case you have to. I've seen kids steal them in the front yard. Especially the solar ones because there are no wires.
I'm landscaping our front yard and lighting it. Just oredered some 12V led lights for lighting a pathway. Can't wait to get them.
Most all the light stalks are hollow, and I usually pound some rebar into the ground and slip the light over it.
deadman1 -
I like your method, although I'm not sure my stakes are hollow. Do you cut off the tip so that you can slip the stake over the rebar?
What would you do if the stakes were not hollow?
Richard
Do it cheep or do it so it lasts:
The way I put in landscape lights follows. However, many DIYers fail to understand that when it comes to landscape lights, less is more. Having lights every 6 feet on both sides of a walkway is overkill and looks weird. Putting lights further way from one another and used to illuminate shadows rather than paths creates a more interesting night time landscape.
First, I run PVC conduits for the wire. I dig down about 12" and put extensions on the elbows being used. Sweeping street elbows are better than the others. I cut the extensions off when trimming out.
The locations of the lights need to be predetermined to provide the best illumination plan and run of the conduits.
At each light location where the conduit elbows up, and then back down to complete the loop or go to the next fixture, a Mighty Post is placed and set in position. Sometimes the base of the Mighty Post needs to be cut with your jig saw to provide for the second conduit or a conduit running too high when it cannot be avoided.
http://www.rabweb.com/product_line_detail.php?prodline=post
These Mighty Posts have caps that are moulded to include a 1/2" female thread opening on top to mount practically ANY standard landscape light.
It is assumed the installer understands power drop in these low voltage systems and the need, if necessary for the wire to be in a circuit or string.
The transformer is installed in a suitable location - such as inside an attached garage - or an appropriate outdoor box as needed (such as an nice SS one). I prefer transformer boxes that have conduit holes already provioded at it's bottom. Or when inside the garage and no conduit holes, I'll run the wires into a box at the base of the transformer, into the wall and coming out on the outside at the top of the bottom plate. Outside, I ream the hole sufficiently to allow a 1/2" pull elbow to slip comfortably inside and caulk the gaps. Then the verticle part of the elbow goes down and connects with my conduit line. (I like to place a fixture close to that point for use as a box for the rest of the runs - if needed.)
Then, the trimming simply involves going around and wiring your fixtures as it your were working indoors. Use moisture resistant screw on's. I go overboard and solder the wires after twisting and before place the wire nut.
Almost all are hollow, with a plastic barb stuck in the end.
If you can't make do with the stakes/shafts, you might be able to replace the shafts with ceiling fan downrods...much stronger than hollow tin/aluminum, available in different lengths so you can plant 1' and still have a bit to hold the light above ground, and in different colors to match the decor.
It really depends on the lights, and how they're constructed.
richardi
Don't do it!
Gardens change regularly and it's nice to be able to move the lights around where they work rather than having some plant that grew unexpectedly block off the light..
I've used the provided stakes now for 3 years and every spring I spend a total of 5 minutes straightening up those that got knocked over during the winter.. so far I've got a total of 15 minutes in three years of maintinace in my lights..
doing as you are suggesting will take you a lot longer than 15 minutes..
frenchy -
How long are the stakes on your lights? Mine are only 9-12" and are constantly out-of-kilter so I spend more time than I want to straightening them only to have them slip again.
Edited 9/22/2008 6:03 pm ET by richardi
richardi
6 1/4 inches.
It's not exactly hard to yank a 2' piece of half-buried rebar when I redo the landscaping, and they sure don't move around unless you wan them to.
That's why I use that method...even with my 100# rottie bounding through the yard like a blind rogue elephant, they don't go anywhere but they're easy to relocate when I want.
And my customers love it, except when they stub a toe on one...
Edited 9/22/2008 5:58 pm ET by deadman1