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I too wonder how old was the article? very little trouble in the last three years or more. Hubbell and P&S are the the standards of the industry as far as I’m concerned — but don’t buy the “penny saver” “builders spec” level of any brand at the hardware or home center. go to the local electrical distributor and you should be getting spec grade stuff at about $6.50 – 8.50 depending on your discount structure. If a specific application is giving grief then get a 20amp model for $11-13 and you probably will never hear back again.
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I too wonder how old was the article? very little trouble in the last three years or more. Hubbell and P&S are the the standards of the industry as far as I'm concerned --- but don't buy the "penny saver" "builders spec" level of any brand at the hardware or home center. go to the local electrical distributor and you should be getting spec grade stuff at about $6.50 - 8.50 depending on your discount structure. If a specific application is giving grief then get a 20amp model for $11-13 and you probably will never hear back again.
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We've just tried to put a GFCI on a split receptacle in the kitchen, but it keeps cutting out. Are there special GFCIs for the kitchen. I know you guys don't like amateurs messing with hydro, but he's fairly competent with electricity, and this is a puzzler. Is it just the receptacle? It's a Leviton
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Martagon,
By "split receptacle" do you mean one in which one half is switched and the other half is hot all the time? You cannot do that with any normal GFCI. If what you are doing squares with the instructions, then you either have a ground fault on the downstream side of the GFCI, in which case it is merely doing its job, or the device is bad, and a new one will solve the problem. They can be bad brand new, especially the cheapos. Hope this helps.
Bill
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Was looking thru and old copy of Fine Home building and saw a letter from someone saying that he was having a high failure rate with the GFI's he was using, someone replied that he too had experienced the same problem, started buying a $14 gfi vs. a $8 gfi and his gfi failure rate dropped.
What makes a good GFI ?
Any preferences for Leviton, Hubbell, Pass&Seymour, GE etc ?
Thanks,
Mike
*How old was old? GFI technology has improved quite a bit since they were first put on the market. I use whatever my suppliers happen to be carrying, usually Leviton or P & S, and don't have much trouble with failures.I don't use Hubbell GFI's much, but they're certainly good. I stay away from no-name discount stuff on general principle.Lee
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Sorry it took so long to reply, couldn't remember what issue it was in and had to look thru quite a few issues.
The letter was in the September 1994 issue(#90 pg6),
so maybe the GFIs are better now.
FWIW here's part of the letter.
"When I tested the circuits, one showed a hot-ground reverse at the GFCI (and the two outlets protected by it). The other showed an open ground. In both cases the wiring was correct.The problem was in the GFCIs themselves. I replaced both of these with new units; the circuits tested correctly, and the self test buttons worked. But two weeks later, one GFCI showed an open ground. Neither of of them would trip when tested with a GFCI tester. I double-checked the wiring and it was correct.
My local building inspector says this is a common problem. He generally finds two or three bad GFCIs on each job he inspects"