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>I am buliding a bar in my basement out of glass block and I need to know how to set the mortar and what tools I need.
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Hi There ,
In my area Toronto , Canada . There is a place that will make up glass block in straight panels . I have ordered them to install in place of basement windows . this will only help you if are doing straight runs of block not I think for curves . If you just want to do the work your self you should talk to your local supplier of glass block they can probably get you going okay .
*Your glass block supplier can provide you with detailed manufacturer's instructions that would be more detailed than what I could provide here.One caution...glass, obviously, does not absorb water as brick or concrete block does. So, when constructing your wall, plan on doing 2, maybe 3 courses at a time (per day), as it takes longer for the mortar to set. Also, water oxidizes (rusts) steel. Rust stains mortar. Mortar is visible through the glass block. Choose your reinforcing material carefully.
*There is a mortarless glass block system available for the DIY market. Plastic spacer/reinforcing used with silicone sealant instead of grout.If you chose real mortar system, mix it dry and use shim shingles or wood wedges for spacers. You can only lay about three courses at a time, then wait for mortar to set.EB
*I have to disagree with Mongo and Eric about the 3 course at a time limit. Glass block can be set just as fast as you are capable of working. It goes up just as if you were laying brick but you must do the following:1. Buy the plastic spacers and follow the directions on the bag.2. Use the galvanized ladders at least every other course.3. Use the galvanized wall ties at least every other course and across the top (if the wall is not free standing).4. Pack the mortar in well and strike the joints.5. Clean the face of the glass, just as you would when grouting tile, or the dried mortar will be more than tenacious.This is the method I use (not really an original idea, I probably read it somewhere, but it works for me). I also know of some installers who never use spacers and don't stop until they're finished and always end up with consistent joints.It's been 3 years and this shower is still intact with zero problems and zero callbacks for the whole remodel job.Good luck with your project.
*Nice job Ralphie. I like the detail of stepping down one block at the end. Also, what is the floor material? I'm guessing something akin to terrazzo.I too ixnay the three course rule. The only limititation I work with is self-imposed. I only mix up enough mortar to go 4 or five courses. This gives me the excuse to stop for coffee and to clean up a little and make any minor adjustments. This also lets me avoid the dreaded retempering of the mortar. Other than that, I keep on going until completion.The little plastic spacers are not neccesary, one could use window shims, for example. The plastic spacers do make it easier though for there is no guessing about joint width. For reinforcement I use cold dipped galv. every second course. If the basement bar mentioned is freestanding, I'd suggest a vertical tie set in the joint at each end and every 6-8 feet. I'd set the whole shebang on cribbing 10" or so off the floor for both design and function.Speaking of reinforcement Mr/Ms Help said he/she wanted to use the block to support a bartop. Wouldn't this eliminate the option of the acrylic block setup Eric mentioned? I wouldn't want all my rowdy friends toppling my bar because I built it out of, ahem, plastic with little shear strength.But then, I could be entirely wrong.
*I noticed the other day that I have cocrete spaters on my glass block . How do i get that stuff off?
*Richie, a stepped down block might have looked good at that, but, the top photo was of work in progress and what looks like a small glass block is just a missing tile. The floor is just a poured slab with the stepdown formed for the shower floor. The floor was finished in a black and white checkerboard pattern that you can just see in the lower photo. I will keep that stepdown idea in mind for future design work. Thanks
*Ralph,The three course rule may not apply to you, but remember you're advising someone who has obviously never done this before and wouldn't recognize trouble with the lay-up before it was too late.Rich,I'm not sure what the bearing capacity of glass blocks layed up with silicone in lieu of mortar is, but I'm guessing the glass block capacity and not the joint material will govern. If strength is a concern I would suggest sticking two blocks together with silicone and once cured try getting them apart. EB
*Eric, my apologies. I read "plastic" in your post and that just stuck in my head. That started me thinking about those acrylic looks-like-but-isn't glass blocks. Rereading your post I see you were talking about the real GB and substituting silicone for mortar. Not entirely wrong.
*Ralph,For someone doing this for the first time, I'd advise the slow and steady method of a few courses at a time, especially if using the heavy, full-thickness blocks. Reason? The main one being that I've never met a novice that could properly mix a batch of mortar first time out. Always, always, too much water, and there's not much worse you can do then that when working with glass block. By the time they can properly mix a dry enough batch, the job is done. Spacers can help, but they aren't the cure. Based on the wording of the question, to the point of asking "what tools" are required, I'm guessing a novice. "Mr/Mrs/Ms/Master/Miss Help", this is not meant as an insult. It is meant only to prevent you from waking the next morning to find a stack of shifted blocks and glops of cured mortar on the floor, squeezed out from the joints.Of course, some novices may work so slowly that by the time they get to the third course, the mortar below has already cured! BTW, nice job on your shower.
*Don, to remove splatters from the GB, try this method. First, using a single edged razor blade--like the painters use--knock the cement off the block. Lay the blade flat against the GB and gently scrape in one direction only. Don't go back and forth with the blade, this may score the glass. Having knocked off the cement mortar, you will see a haze ring where the splatter was. Use white vinegar, sponge and elbow grease to remove the haze. If vinegar doesn't work or you are the impatient sort, use water/HCL solution at 75:1. If you use the acid be sure to 1)wear rubber gloves, 2)provide postive room ventilation, 3) wet the GB mortar with clean water before applying the acid solution, 4)when mixing the solution, pour the acid into the water, not the water into the acid, 5)use baking soda to neutralize the acid after you are done cleaning. Also, be careful when working around metal fixtures with acid. Some metals, especially electrically plated metals, will discolor with the slightest contact with the fumes. Copper especially comes to mind, but that's a different story.
*Thanks Rich
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>I am buliding a bar in my basement out of glass block and I need to know how to set the mortar and what tools I need.