Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 16, 1999 05:16am | #1

   *
   Rich

   I've had a lot of success gluing solid wood edging onto p/bd edges of laminated counters with water based contact cement,no nails required, but I don't think you'll succeed trying to glue onto laminate. . . you can remove the edge strips by heating with an iron and prying off in bits, then clean up with a chisel. You might post this question over on the FWW site, for kicks.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 16, 1999 06:10am | #2

   *If the edging is thick enough, can you bisquit it on?(re FWW site: Don't go over there! They're animals!)

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   Guest_ | Apr 16, 1999 06:19am | #3

   *AdrianYa like them biscuit things??Your friends at thei Furry Wet Weaselsite are not going to be amused, watch out for the candle flames

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   Guest_ | Apr 16, 1999 04:19pm | #4

   *Just luv dem biscuits. I just got a pocket screw jig that is really nifty too: might even work in this application. There was a discussion over there about making a living at woodworking, started by our own RJT, that got a little heated. You want to see heat, go to "cabinetmaker' magazine and get them started on this software vs that software

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   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 06:49am | #5

   *It must have perked up some since I was there last. . . it was such a snore a while back I decided to pass!

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 09:19am | #6

   *I would suggest drilling 3/8" holes in trim w/ forstner (sp.?) bit, attaching edging with glue and screws, filling holes with plugs made with a tapered plug cutter, and sanding flush. I have installed bar rails with this method with contrasting wood for the plugs. Most folks likethe look. I would remove the laminate edge and then clean it up with a router to ensure a tight glue joint.buena suerte.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 09:32pm | #7

   *Clear silicone is one hell of an adhesive and will bond let heck to laminate, especially if you rough it up first. For an added durability you may want to cut a key slot along the edge of the countertop and then form your trimn piece to fit into the slot for added strength, glue surface and a wood to wood bond behind the laminate.Pete Draganic

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 1999 12:08am | #8

   *Pete & RichThe guy I apprenticed with favoured youri key slotmethod except he used to slot i both the counter edge and the back of the trim and glue in a full length spline. . . we used this method on both Corian and Laminate c/tops

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 1999 01:38am | #9

   *Sort of like...bisquits? Only more work? (you can also get bisquits for Corion now, Patrick).

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 1999 06:41am | #11

   *AdrianThe only bis-cuits we had back then (20 years) were fer the dog.

2. 
   Rich_C. | Apr 18, 1999 06:41am | #10

   *
   I have recently changed (glued new formica over the old)my formica tops on two vanities, then decided to add a solid cherry trim to the front edge. I cannot remove the old formica, so I will have to glue the wood to the formica. I would also like to avoid using any nails. I was thinking of roughing up the front surface, then using the formica contact cement to glue the two together. Does anyone have any tips concerning a better adhesive to use? I also want it to be water resistant since it is being used in the bathroom. I look forward to your help on this one.