Replies

1. 
   popawheelie | Mar 27, 2008 01:44am | #1

   Does the metal frame go over the drywall? My experience with the ones I've done was that the metal casing was supposed to go over it in order to get the fire rating. The metal frame should be wide enough for the wall including drywall. We had to use 5/8" to get one hour but yours is probably for 1/2" drywall. We put the frame in first and then tucked the drywall behind the metal casing. These were heavy duty commercial ones.

   The other lighter metal frames went in after drywall and the casing was separate. It popped on after paint. Those are nice because you can pop off the casing next time you paint.

   I haven't done one in years so they might have changed.

1. 
   rez | Mar 28, 2008 09:18pm | #2

   It popped on after paint.

   Is that why you are named popawheelie? 

    

   Get a Peach full,easy feelin'.

    

1. 
   popawheelie | Mar 28, 2008 11:03pm | #3

   I was the wheely king on bicyles in my youth. While other kids were studying at school I was goofing around on bicycles. You can see where it has led me.

1. 
   rez | Mar 28, 2008 11:26pm | #4

   LADIEEEEES

   and Gentlemen.

    

   Presenting...

   popawheelie <!----><!----> 

   http://www.vimeo.com/74402 

    

   Get a Peach full,easy feelin'.

    

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 30, 2008 05:10pm | #5

   The frame is metal and comes in two parts

    

   Hope you mean a three piece frame. A head and two jamb legs make up a knock down metal buck.

   The buck should be sized correctly for the wall thickness, as someone pointed out.

   The head is slipped in first and then each jamb leg is slid in . There are locking/ aligning tabs on eack leg that fit into corresponding slots in the head jamb. You may also need to clip in the anchor straps at the bottom of each leg before you install them.

   Afte the jamb is assembled in place, use the adjusting screw in the center of the jamb stop near the top to center the head in the opening, and lock it in place. The screws are attached a pressure plate on the inside back of each jamb leg. These snug up agianst each side of the rough opening to keep the unit from moving out of plumb. These are the only points, along with the warp around construction of the jamb itself that keep the assmbly in place at the top.

   Next move to the bottom clips. They get secured to the bottom plate of the wall  after you plumb and sguare each leg of the jamb. There are four clips in all, so you should  be able to keep the jamb square to the wall, parralell to one another and properly spaced apart. You may need to move back and forth between the top adjusting screws and the bottom a few times to get both side plumb. I t depends on how plumb your rough opening is.

   After you have everythin plumb and square to world install the hinges. I loosely mount the jamb leafs and the do a tigh install of the door leafs on the door. This give me a little wiggle room when I set a heavey fire rated door. I tip the door into the jamb and use a small toe jack to raise it up for alignmen of the hinges. I slipth hing pins in place and then swing the door back enough the finish tightening up the jamb side hing screws. Now go back and pean down the locking tabs on the outside top of each jamb leg.

   You'r done.

   It takes almost as long to decribe the procedure as it does to install one. The important thing to remember is metal doors and jambs are prefit assemblys. There is no planing or cutting  to adjust the door to an out of wack jamb. Get it right and it is a piece of cake.