Just a little survey here to see how you all do your HardiBoard corners.
I build corners out of Hardi 1×4 or 1×6 trim boards, pre-assembled, glued with PL400, and nailed together with 15ga. galvies, and attached to the house with 15ga galvies too, then butt the siding to the corners and caulk the joint. All the Hardie I do now is pre-finished.
Back a few years when I was working in KY, we could get pre-made outside corners, but my supplier here (Manitoba Canada) and now says not available.
I was at a jobsite today with half a dozen houses going up all around with Hardie going on. Those guys ran the siding up to a spf1x4 nailed to each side of the corner and then nailed a ripped-down piece of siding on top of the whole thing to cover the joint from each side. Looked like garbage, IMHO, and a waste of a good-looking material and a bug and rot trap, but maybe could be done well if detailed differently?
I’ve seen a paintable aluminum channel for both outside and inside but never used. Any opinions?
thanks, all.
J
Replies
Azek and a couple of others make a corner with a rabbet to accept the siding.
I could swear Hardi does. Did you look at their website?
[email protected]
I am installing pre-made Hardie corners on my house now.
Tom
We use a product called Tech Trim (http://www.ufpi.com/PRODUCT/techtrim/cornertrim.htm). This is my preferred corner, and our supplier can get them factory painted with the same colors as our siding.
We have also used two piece steel siding corners.
How much are you paying for a 10' stick?
They don't give them away. I think (I don't pay the bills) a 10 foot corner is about $40. I was researching what to use for battens once and I figured out I could get clear vg cedar for less than a 1x4 tech trim.
I've been replacing rotten corner boards but I used AZEK. I prebuilt, as you did. AZEK does premade but they are square and mine were not. I put them up as 1 piece approximately 17 feet long...lots of fun working alone. I also used 15 GA finish nails but I went to stainless. I got some galvanized and the package stated not for exterior use. I called the company and was told that the reason is that after cutting they don't galvanize the cut ends. Should be ok as long as the nail holes are filled? Stainless in expensive.
JeffyT, I am a HO in Winnipeg, just going to start installing Hardie at the cottage on a new build. Just ordered my trim today, as you so note - only white available so will be painting it - what paint do you find works the best to get the colors to match?
Out of curiosity, what do you charge to install? Lookin' for any work? :)
Edit - Azek seems product of choice in US, but here it is very $$$$$. (supposedly contractor prices)
Edited 9/30/2008 6:42 pm ET by confused2
<what paint do you find works the best to get the colors to match?>Right now I'm using a General Paint, color name is "Arena Green" to match Hardie's "Mountain Sage". It's not a perfect match, but it's actually better than the Hardie touchup that came with the siding. Others are similar - the match is fairly good but on separate, adjacent surfaces, with lighting and what not all I haven't heard from anyone that can notice the difference. I wouldn't use it on the siding surface, though. <Out of curiosity, what do you charge to install?>A LOT!! :)<Edit - Azek seems product of choice in US, but here it is very $$$$$. (supposedly contractor prices)>I actually do use Azek a certain amount - mostly for trimming out traditional window styles. It is high and we need to pay attention to thermal movement for this climate, but the results are very good. Palite also makes a similar product that I like a bit better than Azek itself. My concern with using an Azek (or similar) corner material is that they're not suitable for painting in darker colors. There's only so and so many houses that can deal with white or cream colored corner boards. I did some other work on a job near Headingly last year and they were busy painting their Azek cornerboards chocolate brown. Looked great, but I'll bet you a large double-double that after 2 season cycles that paint will be cracked and will be peeling chunks by year 5. j
I won't take you up on that bet - think I know the house - 2 story, end of Hermitage Rd. I was scouting the area for Hardi colors, and talked to that HO to see what color it was (she is a designer). I am now trying to do similar to one on Kuypers, Woodstock brown & navajoe beige window trim, but I want the corner trim to be the Wstck.
Just learned about the Palite this past week, the thermal movement is what has kept me from using these type of products. Although I think we will for over our curved windows.
<Just learned about the Palite this past week, the thermal movement is what has kept me from using these type of products. Although I think we will for over our curved windows.>My experience has been that if you're careful with your attachment to the windows, well fastened, and you're using a light paint color or north-ish exposure, the movement thing can be dealt with pretty well. It's sure the material to use for cutting in contours for Victorian stuff or curved window heads, like you mentioned, since it works so easily on the table saw or router. J