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Skip,
I’ve been specifying Hardie products almost exclusively for the past four years on residential and commercial projects. I have faith that it will be every bit as durable as the old cement-asbestos siding was/is. I do require for the pieces to be fully primed before installation; that means front, backs and edges (even after cutting). It takes paint great and so far appears to be a quality product. I don’t know squat about the other brands or manufacturers making similar products.
Whether it’s already in your house or picked up at a flea market, vintage hardware almost always needs help.
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Replies
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Skip,
I've been specifying Hardie products almost exclusively for the past four years on residential and commercial projects. I have faith that it will be every bit as durable as the old cement-asbestos siding was/is. I do require for the pieces to be fully primed before installation; that means front, backs and edges (even after cutting). It takes paint great and so far appears to be a quality product. I don't know squat about the other brands or manufacturers making similar products.
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Chad,
Why do you prime? Hardieplank is totally inert.
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Skip, The HardiPlank is a very durable product and I recommend it to anyone who wants to paint. I very strongly suggest that it be fastened on with drywall nails under the lap. This will hold the bottom tight and eliminate any face nailing. Also, I suggest either plywood or OSB as sheathing.
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I disagree about hardi board being inert....at least in my home state of louisiana where the humidity varies from 15% to 115%.. Installed some recently on a house.....the 4x8 stucco pattern.....it fit good and tight, esp the factory joints....now i have 1/8" to almost 1/4" gaps even on factory edges....The painter has not painted yet but this stuff does shrink some.....This batch was installed about 2 mos ago when it was raining a lot...it is kept in lumber shed under roof but not indoors in a controled environment....we installed it vertically. It has quit raining and temp is now 98 degrees for the high.....and very dry...low humidity....
*Chad, I am suprised that you recommend painting the ends, my understanding was that there would be no need for this. As Mark said I thought that it was inert and would not absorb moisture like wood. I'm still researching this and appreciate the feedback. I was curious as to wether there was much difference in the quality of one over the other. Thanks Skip
*What does the sheathing accomplish?What type of drywall nails?
*Brian,What kind of MC was your frame at installation? How did you joint the Hardies...Butt? What kind of fasteners at what centres? Stud centres are?
*There was an article in JLC January 1,1998 that covered this. Hardiplank will indeed absorb moisture in the ends. Tamlyn http://www.tamlyn.com included a reprint in the sample kit they send out.Mike
*markinstalled the hardi plank over 7/16" OSB which was covered with 30# building felt. Stud spacing was 16" o.c. both hardi siding and osb fastened with "8 penny" duofast framing nails... Moisture content of framing was stud grade spruce lol....after sending from out west to the humid atmosphere in louisiana who knows.....probably kd15 or 19% but sitting in lumber yard who knows what was absorbed......our humidity has been 75-85% the last couple weeks with highs of 98 degrees....talk about a heat index......
*I have recently been told of another job where the "stucco" sheets shrunk, so much so that the panels are being taken down and replaced with osb and hardie lap. I can not verify I was told by a friend who lives in Camas Washington and I have not seen it.
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I am meeting a customer who wants to reside their house in a synthetic material, Hardie board or similar material. Does anyone have a strong recomendation for or warning against any particular brand?
Thanks Skip