Replies

1. 
   kcoyner_ | Feb 27, 2001 03:14am | #1

   *
   Nail or screew it. If you can find something to hold against the back you can drill and blind nail the first strip. don't forget to leave room for expansion at the tile joint. If the strip is nailed tight against the tile, it is possible for the wood to swell and break the tile all to hell.

   kcoyner

1. 
   Greg_Warren | Feb 28, 2001 04:16am | #2

   *Is it 3/4 solid or laminate prefinished?

1. 
   Steve_Weeks | Feb 28, 2001 04:36am | #3

   *You hadn't planned a threshold between them? Is this at a door or between open rooms? Glue rules, by the way. Just needs a few brads to hold it sometimes, but their holes are easily filled and forgotten.

1. 
   Jim_Lovatt | Feb 28, 2001 05:12pm | #4

   *Hi Greg,I'm not trying to hijack this thread, my question is very similar to Dereks'. I have to lay my first hardwood floor this weekend, its Swedeco brand hardwood engineered planks, ~8"x36"- about 1/2" thick. Subfloor is 3/4" ply over tji @16"oc. The instructions say you can nail-down, glue-down or float.If I nail, can I use my 15 gauge finish nailer for this one job? Would you recommend kraft paper under floor.How would you recommend I install this floor?thanks, jim

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Feb 28, 2001 05:28pm | #5

   *Derek - I used an oak transition to go from a vinyl kitchen floor (raised 3/4") down to older oak. I was able to stain the transition to match the aged oak and used construction adhesive for aesthetic reasons.It didn't work. Foot traffic worked it loose and I ended up using screws and plugs, which worked fine and actually (if you can cut face grain plugs) is pretty hard to see. Not sure if you could cut plugs out of the prefinished, but maybe? If you are flush with the tile this might be overkill, but IMO yes, you do need mechanical fastening.Jeff

2. 
   Greg_Warren | Feb 28, 2001 10:04pm | #6

   *JimL, I would just full spread glue the floor to the subfloor with some blind nailing occasionally as you progress to keep the floor from separating as you work on top of it. Of course, I would work on top of masonite sheets cut in thirds to keep the movement down. Just glue a small section at a time until you get a feel as to how much you can install in the open time recommendation. Use the right trowel size (throw-a-ways if you can get them)as spec'd. Keep the floor clean so you do not get any scratches on the prefinished surface. These instructions only apply to laminate flooring. It takes a couple of days for the floor to snug tight to the subfloor as the glue dries and sucks the floor down. GW

3. 
   Jim_Lovatt | Feb 28, 2001 11:08pm | #7

   *Thanks alot for the advice Greg, that's how I'll do it. Interestingly we were just driving by the store where I'm buying the flooring - an hour after the earthquake. Black smoke boiling out of the building, fire trucks on the way.Maybe I won't be installing that floor this weekend...jim

4. 
   Derek_Nayler | Mar 04, 2001 07:50pm | #8

   *To Greg: This is a 3/4 inch solid prefinished.To Steve: The transition is at a 60 inch wide doorway. I have done the change several ways. Once with an oak strip running along the end grain of the flooring and another time with a marble threshold. I worry a bit about the width of the doorway and perhaps a marble piece cracking? If I put the flooring parallel to the tiles then maybe I won't need a threshold. This is probably up to the client. My main concern is to eliminate any screw holes/plugs etc if possible. There seems to be two opinions as to whether glue will hold or not. After the first row or two, nails will be fine. Same thing at the far end? Some glue and brads perhaps?

5. 
   Jim_K_ | Mar 11, 2001 03:57pm | #9

   *Curious what the pros do?Just put the first of my 5/8 T&G flooring in yesterday. Floating. Started in a closet so I could get practice in a less visible area. Came out pretty nice, but I'm sure it could have been better. Hardest part was getting started. I had a straight line for lining up the first boards. But it struck me that even if a board is off by as little as 1/100 in per ft, that's 1/32 per plank, when you put the second row in you'll have a small, but noticeable gap. Or if a board has a tiiiiiny warp, it can create a gap. And since it's floating, you can't just smack the boards with a hammer (and block, of course) without shifting the whole floor.Aside from, "Well, that's the diff be/t a pro and a hack," what are the best ways to avoid this? Ratchet clamps/straps? Practice? What would a wise old geezer tell an apprentice about getting the first row perfect so that subsequent rows install easy?

6. 
   Greg_Warren | Mar 11, 2001 04:37pm | #10

   *Nail down butt blocks on the starting line every 18" and at seams. No one said you have to start at the wall line. Or use square shims at the wall edge/baseboards as butt blocks. They will be loose of course, but always at the seams. You really need a beating bar for the floating floors to get them tight when you near the parallel wall edge. Tarkett calls them Tark Bars. Put a towel under them though; they can scratch a prefinished floor. You can go back later to tighten up the first starting rows with the Tark bar if you have some small gaps. At the end of the job, use color putty to fill any gaps that would not go together.GW

7. 
   Jim_K_ | Mar 13, 2001 03:31pm | #11

   *Greg, Thanks. I've seen an installation where they started in the middle, as you mention, and work towards the walls. That requires a spline for the groove to groove connection. Is this typically just ripped from a strip of the flooring? Or something else? At first I thought "biscuit," but then figured a high-heel might break the groove where not supported by a biscuit. Yes? No?For a more precise starter course, I've thought of gluing up a few strips ahead of time in the shop with lots of clamps and carrying the resulting perfectly straight and tight 6" by 12' into the room before continuing with the rest of the courses. At least I wouldn't have one board shift while I try to snug up the next Any reason this is a bad idea?Thanks.

2. 
   Derek_Nayler | Mar 13, 2001 03:31pm | #12

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   I have to lay a Bruce pre-finished oak floor starting off right next to a tile floor. They suggest that the first row(s) be screwed or nailed on the face and then filled. Seems to me this would be a bit of an eyesore. Can the first row(s) be glued (PL400?), allowed to set and then the rest nailed as usual? Any other ideas? Thanks Derek Nayler