*
Almost exactly one year ago we cut a
150′ Doug Fir tree down in our yard
where we added a carport. The tree boys
hauled all the limbs and the sections of
log smaller than 2 feet in diameter. We
were left with 4 lengths of log, at 20
foot in length. They sat for 9 months.
I then hired a portable sawmill to slice
the logs in to slabs of various
thicknesses–nothing specific. These
planks sat for 3 months stacked uncovered out in the open
but with no spacers in between planks
. Now I want to mill the
planks into usable framing lumber. I
live in the Seattle area–you know, lots
o’ rain. What do y’all think-will the
framing material be usable right away,
or am I going to have to wait some more
until the stuff dries out some more? I
don’t have a moisture meter to determine
moisture content. Thanks l
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Replies
*
What are you framing?
*
Flavius,
Borrow one, you have to appreciate the damage you could do by installing lumber that is not properly seasoned or even dry. The stacking method you described is not the best, so check it out first, anything else would be irresponsible, and I don't think that's what you want.
*I live and build in the great northwest and I have always heard that a good rule of thumb for air drying lumber (stickered with 1" stickers) is one year for every inch of thickness of board. When I was starting out here in the late 70's we still used quite a bit of #2 doug fir to frame with. This was usually stamped "S DRY". - which we all called "sorta-dry" or "swamp-dry" and the debates raged over which was better framing lumber this fir or comparably priced #1 kiln dried hem-fir (hemlock and other than doug fir mix I think). Anyway, the doug fir studs and joists would move and twist quite a bit if you didn"t get them sheeted pretty quick so I'd be very carefull using anything with a moisture content higher than 20 to frame with. I don't see how a pile of boards with no stickers would dry much faster than a log would since no air is taking the moisture off the surfaces. I have come upon many a log in the woods that rotted from its own moisture not escaping. You may come out ahead by properly stickering the boards now and selling the lumber to pay for commercial lumber to build your project with. That fir, in good shape, could easily be worth more than you will pay at the local lumber yard.Good cheer and good luck.
*flavius,North Jersey where I just installed a skylight with new framing is all built with western fir that is green (wet.) They look at you cross eyed in the lumber yard if you ask for it kiln dried.I would use it rough cut for out buildings or have it planed if the price is right...In any event, use the wood or get rid of it because I don't think it will be of much value stored as is, in time.Good luck, near the stream,J
*Can I have it? My wife gets so amorous when she builds a campfire!Blue
*whats a campfire??
*A campfire is a small bonfire. On that you can cook over. Blue
*Fir is about the worst fire starting wood I have had the pleasure to burn...I do burn all my wood scraps but that fir...not the greatest at burning.Near the stream, burning my oak floor scraps,J
*I know what a campfire is , I meant whats amorous? Does it have anything to do with getting hot?
*Jack, Alot of us in the woodburning NW buy fir specifically for fire starter. Unlike our framing lumber, we require that it be seasoned. I sticker my 2x scrap for a season before it goes to the stove. Not sure what that says about my building practices.JonC
*I seem to recall that the standard laboratory test for establishing (testing) and comparing wood-stove performance (BTU output) figures employs the burning of kiln-dried Douglas Fir 2X4's. I know that's how Jay Shelton out there near Santa Fe, New Mexico, gets his numbers anyway.Brian
*
My neighbor milled and stickered some doug fir 2 years ago. It is too hard to drive a nail into now. If it hasn't rotted , use it or sell it. Bill.
*
Almost exactly one year ago we cut a
150' Doug Fir tree down in our yard
where we added a carport. The tree boys
hauled all the limbs and the sections of
log smaller than 2 feet in diameter. We
were left with 4 lengths of log, at 20
foot in length. They sat for 9 months.
I then hired a portable sawmill to slice
the logs in to slabs of various
thicknesses--nothing specific. These
planks sat for 3 months stacked uncovered out in the open
but with no spacers in between planks
. Now I want to mill the
planks into usable framing lumber. I
live in the Seattle area--you know, lots
o' rain. What do y'all think-will the
framing material be usable right away,
or am I going to have to wait some more
until the stuff dries out some more? I
don't have a moisture meter to determine
moisture content. Thanks l