Replies

1. 
   Blacky | Apr 30, 2005 04:46pm | #1

   is there a 2nd floor? if there is you could put the header in the band joists.
   Dan

2. 
   gdavis62 | Apr 30, 2005 04:53pm | #2

   You gotta tell us what's above.  If there is no second floor above, and the entry is gabled, you don't need much at all.

1. 
   bhackford | Apr 30, 2005 05:45pm | #3

   Yes, there is second floor of with osb style i-joists and then the roof. There is also a front porch hanging off the front of this building. Thanks

1. 
   gdavis62 | Apr 30, 2005 05:52pm | #4

   OK, got it.  Your architect should solve this for you.  He's dealing the cards.  You are just there to spike it up.

2. 
   Framer | Apr 30, 2005 11:22pm | #7

   Going over a set of prints, and the arch left out header size for a front door with a rough opening 68 1/2 w by 96h. The stud height of the wall is 104 5/8, so that only leaves 8 5/8" for header. I have a call into the arch, but does anyone have any ideas or web site where I could spec one of these? Thanks

    

   It sounds like your using 9' precuts with the 104-5/8". If that's the case adding it to your 1-1/2" shoe/sole plate then you should have 106-1/8" leaving you with 10-1/8" for a header unless your sitting the door on 1-1/2" for some reason.

    

   If I'm right about the 10-1/8" around here with your situation we usually use 2x10 header or 3-1/2" x 9-1/2" microlam for that width. If the Architect wants a 2x12 then you can cut out the first of your top plate giving you 11-5/8" to fit your 2x12.

    

   If I'm wrong and you have only 8-5/8" like you said and the Architect says you can use a 2x10 or 3-1/2" x 9-1/2" microlam you can still cut out the first of the top plates and it will work.

    

   If the Architect wants x 2x12 then do as was mentioned and put the header above and hang your joists but that's always the last option.

    

   Joe Carola

    

   Edited 4/30/2005 4:23 pm ET by Framer

1. 
   Isamemon | May 01, 2005 01:28am | #8

   Somewhat related to all of this.

   we often use doubled up 2x stock, mostly out of old habit. I noticed Joe talks about 2x headers as well

   in some instances Ill tripple em up, got the space, If I feel Im looking at a real load issue

   however, just recently got a set of drawings back from the local city inspector and he crossed out all of our double 2x and wrote in 4x. AAnd 90% of the time we supersize so we don thave to put in 2 inch cripples

   I have the current code books and dont see why or what caused this

   Its a single story house. foundation is still a month off. But I will check with him and ask why

   is something changing out there in the world of code that I don t know about ??

2. 
   bhackford | May 01, 2005 02:11am | #10

   You are right again. I forgot the sole plate and the arch was asking for 2x12s??? The reason is that originally there was going to be 1.5" of gyp for RFH. Now the RFH is going to be a staple up job. I will just do 2x12s and remove one top plate and some plywood spacers to make up the difference of 3/8.Usually, I build the headers, jacks and cripples in advance. Saves time and I can work at home in any weather. This is one of those usual cases and some of the jacks I cut yesterday for other exterior doors are 1.5 too long. Thanks again for the help.

3. 
   BossHog | May 01, 2005 01:39am | #9

   Knowing it carries a 2nd floor and roof is only a small part of the overall picture. You have to know HOW MUCH the header is carrying. Like for instance - A 30' roof truss at 50# loading, and a 16' clear span floor at 55# loading. Without knowing the loads, everything is just a guessing game.
   It isn't premarital sex if you have no intention of getting married.

3. 
   Isamemon | Apr 30, 2005 08:34pm | #5

   Your archi should tell you, if a true archi

   or maybe check this site. Its the ICC forum that answers code questions

   http://www.iccsafe.org/cgi-bin/Ultimate.cgi

4. 
   JasonPharez | Apr 30, 2005 10:07pm | #6

   Had the very same problem not long ago in a house that we had to reframe the RO...1/2 story 2x12 joists bearing on wall. We could not change the floor so we just went with the small header and it passed inspection.

   In your case, find an engineered beam (LVL, Glue-Lam, etc) or the next size up solid lumber from the I-joist depth, rip it down if necessary, and build a beam above the top plates. Use joist hangers to hang those joists that fall over the door. Then build the small door header underneath the top plates. Of course, if there's an engineer or architect, run this past them first and let them decide what's best.

   Oh, might that door be a 3068 with sidelites and transom? That RO size sounds familiar.