*
I have to build a 16′ cab/bookcase/windowseat over hydronic baseboard
any ideas on how to incorp the heat into the design??
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
Featured Video
Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With ViewrailHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Allow for air inlet and outlet. I'm picturing the window seat portion recessed a bit between two bookcases. All to be built with the illusion of feet. An ogee or scroll cut for the legs, that leaves the middle cut out for air inlet. Extend the seat top as you would a window sill, slightly hiding a lenghtwise cutout under it, that would provide the air circulation. The bookcases would have the same idea of feet, and perhapse an bottom shelf with a false back and air gap under/behind and on top out a a grille. Jeff
*Can you install one of those toe kick heater with the fan unit? I built a raised platform that covered a baseboard unit. Installed one of these, and it worked out real well.
*Thanks Jeff, The circulation thing was missing from the eq.Messi, I've used toekicks in baths and a few kitchens, butcan't bring myself to do it in big living room. This is the gold coast of CT. Buy the way Know where I can get a Lexus Pickup?
*This is interesting; same subject was raised on one of the pro cabinetmaker forums, the consensus was it couldn't be done safely or without damaging the cabs. I wasn't so sure, but I wasn't sure how to deal with it (and I have a similar project in my own house).The thing is though, it's not forced air. If the window seat is say 20-24" deep, how does the heat get into the living space, or does it just heat all the cabinetry, and then heat the space? What does that do to the cabinetry? I have no answers, only questions.
*Adrian, Jeff ,Messi I think if I engineer this thing right ie "duct" up thru the rear with duct work, maybe insulated 1/4 foam and sent it out some grill work built in it might work. It could go thru a few dummy fillers or under a shelf or stool overhang. thanks I guess I just didn't think this out enough. or I could just rehang the heat, but I guess anyone could do that, no challange!
*Dave-I understand. However, the thought of the heat inside the cabinet does kinda scare me some. I'd be concerned how the unit will stand up to that.Can the heat be re-located, or bridged around the unit? Also I woudl think the efficiency of the baseboard would go down since now it would be heating strictly with convection, rather than convection and radiant heat. Consider this. Gold coast folks get real grumpy when their living room is now cold.I know a hell of a body guy...He will make anything into a pickup, for the right price.
*That's the spirit! Anyone can simply make money...I wanna make the impossible.....I'm starting to see why some of my projects don't seem to make as much as I counted on....Oh well, on with the challenges! Let us know what ya tried and how it worked. Definitely seems do-able.Jeff