Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 29, 1999 08:30pm | #1

   *
   Hi Tim,

   Open the floor and shave them down.

   DO NOT SLICE THEM FROM BELOW UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO SISTER THEM FIRST, FROM BEARING SURFACE TO BEARING SURFACE.

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 1999 01:09am | #2

   *Tim - what stage is the building in now? Is the vinal in? Are the cabinets? Do you have a cellar, or a crawlspace? Do you have room to get under there and work? Are the joists sitting on top of mud sill and one beam? Or on two beams? Or are they hung between beams? Or what? Can you get at both ends of the joists? - jbps Hey Gabe.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 1999 05:47am | #3

   *Hey Jimbo , your gonna burn up your ? mark key man . How's it goin ? Chuck

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 1999 06:39am | #4

   *Hey Chuck. It's goin, brotherman. You folks burnin' up down there? We had to build a fire last night, no foolin'. I guess I did kind of go overboard on the questions but I got some more, like - are you sure the entire joist is high? Is it possible it'is crown? Tryin' to get a visual, you know?

2. 
   Tim_Schorr | Jul 01, 1999 11:38pm | #5

   *
   First of all thank you all for responding so quickly. The house is finished (the vinyl is in, there are cabinents, but not over the 2 joists in question. Below the kitchen is our basement so it would be easy to work. The 2 joist are sitting on an I-Beam at one end and the other is on top of the mud sill which I can't access. When I sight down the joists they do appear to have a pretty good crown.

   Tim Schorr

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 1999 01:08am | #6

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   Here's what to do.

   1. Go to the lumber yard and buy 2 more joists. Try to get ones with a pronounced crown.

   2. Get everybody out of the room above.

   3. Make saw kerfs in the joists to be fixed at 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 of the length, about 1/3 of the joist depth up from the bottom.

   4. Place the new joists on the outsides of the old ones with the crowns down.

   5. Lag bolt a 2x across the new joists at each kerf.

   6. Run a lag through each 2x into the joists to be fixed. Tighten until the joists are down to where you want them.

   7. Nail the old joists to the new with plenty of nails.

   8. Wait about 3 months and remove the 2x's from the bottom.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 09:53am | #7

   *Nice plan Mike. I might suggest construction adhesive to prevent the two joists from rubbing/squeaking.Don't forget option 9: yell at whoever built the floor (if it wasn't you) to fix it. Show them Mike's advice.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 10:16pm | #8

   *I didn't suggest adhesive because I figured the time to do this whole procedure would be much more than the working time of the adhesive. Adhesive is a good idea but it should have a couple of hours working time.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 11:18pm | #9

   *Polyurathane construction adhesive would have enough working time.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 08, 1999 03:13am | #10

   *I think I would be tempted to use sister joists with no crown. And cut as far I needed through the original joists to get them to come down flat. I would start by stringing the original joists end to end, then cutting temporary deadmen 1/16" taller than the line, to go each side of proposed cuts (maybe 1/8" above line in center).Get aunt Tilly to stand over joists to be cut (maybe her three kids, too).Make vertical cuts at 1/4 and 3/4 points approx. 1/3 through joists. Then make center cuts approx. 1/2 way through. Increase depth of cuts until joists drop onto deadmen.Roll in sistering joists. I would rip a bevel onto the top of these to make it easier to get them in.Glue and nail, maybe a few through bolts. Remove aunt Tilly and offspring and see if joists stay flat. Remove deadmen, drink frosty O'doul's. - jb

4. 
   Tim_Schorr | Jul 08, 1999 03:14am | #11

   *
   I have two 2x10 joists that are 3/8" Higher than the other joists causing a hump in my kitchen. I would like ideas on what I can do to lower the two joist and remove the hump.