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12″ brick wall in second story unit in an 85 year old building has opening in shower wall adjacent to wall containing shower head.
Old wooden double hung window requires replacement.
I’m considering installing a window at the top of the present opening, with a tile wall on the inside of the shower, that terminates at the bottom of the window and brick on the outside, also leading up to the bottom of the new window. I’m thinking that this is a preferable option to a glass block window, as it raises the horizontal surface over the position where most shower water will impact. I’ll still angle the framing and tile so that any incidental water flows into the shower.
I’ll probably contract the masonry work to save time–I need to finish this total gut and replace job quickly.
Any problems with my design?
Other suggestions on design or products?
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I recently remodeled the master bath in my house and installed a 40x40 glass block configuration in the wall adjacent to the shower head, The block is set into a powder coated aluminum grid which is caulked from the outside. The interior surround is all tile with about a 4 inch sill all round. Looks great and has been no problem with water splashing. Email me if you want more info.
Clint Searl
*KAS,In the past we have used a vinyl clad window and made all the interior stops, stools, aprons and casings out of corian.So far, so good.Ed. Williams
*Not so crazy about the look of glass block in older buildings; I set a double-glazed piece of tempered privacy glass in bottom 2/3 of opening with epdm glazing tape, pt frame, and cypress sill anged into shower; top third will either get a stock or homemade sash awning ... when I get around to it ... Mounted a grab bar over the window -- this opening is immediately next to the tub, and I'm sure the original double-hung rotted out as most next to a shower do.Your plan sounds very good, though it will admit less loght -- 99% of the water abuse occurs at or below where the shower spray hits the wall, especially as it streams down the surface. Treat it like a high-exposure exterior window.
*Andrew's post gets me thinking about moisture/humidity. These would cause rot, eh?
*KAS,I use essentially the same method as GACC Dallas does. I also slope the sill as you stated and sometimes match the flair angle on the extension jabs as well for a decorative effect.Richard
*Yep. Did I mention fixing the bath ventilation and using oil primer on the window too? I particularly didn't want any of that mildew (*&^%(^*&.
*Regarding ventilation: this may help some. I have installed an exhaust fan in the ceiling, so I intend to ask a mason to install a 4" vent through the brick at the same height as the fan's exhaust port. I will heed the advice on oil primer and paint.
*KAS, whatever you do, don't forget to check the applicable code(s) regarding safety glazing.With tempered encouragement, Steve