Replies

1. 
   joeh | May 06, 2002 05:26am | #1

   Stained clear pine is pretty blah. Clear pine costs as much as a lot of hardwoods, and it's soft too. When it gets whacked with the vacuum or furniture or whatever it's gonna dent.

   Fir is much better looking, no stain needed, but what kinda look are you after?  Joe H

2. 
   andybuildz | May 06, 2002 03:01pm | #2

   try poplar

   It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   JerraldHayes | May 06, 2002 03:23pm | #3

   Hey Andy I love poplar ( shaping a pile of it up in to molding this morning in fact) but stained? While pine is tough to stain and have it look good (needs conditioner before staining) just last Friday I was talking with some friends about just how bad poplar can look when stained. I've got to believe it can be installed and stained to a good looking or interesting effect but I haven't seen it done yet. Great for painted finishes though.

   "Do not go where the path may lead, go

   instead where there is no path and

   leave a trail."-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

1. 
   bishopbldr | May 07, 2002 02:32am | #8

   We have used quite a bit of poplar for custom trims, a lot of it stained. You have the best luck if you sort it for color,  and use either a conditioner or light sealer coat of shellac first. Some stain colors seem to look better than others. If you want to really jazz up your formal areas such as dining rooms, living rooms, foyers, etc. consider using cherry, oak or maple. By going with stock profiles in paint grade trim in your bedroom and bath locations, it keeps the cost down. If you're milling it yourself, rough cut cherry can be bought around here for $2-2.50 a bd.ft., red oak even less.

   The comment about getting a good painter is right on target. Seems a lot of people call themselves painters if they know which end of the brush to hold, but it's like anything else. There are mediocre painters and very good ones and the good ones can do wonders.

3. 
   Brudoggie | May 06, 2002 04:47pm | #4

   As was said, cl. pine dents easy, cost as much as some hardwoods, and needs conditioner before staining. Fir is nice if you are looking for some grain, but can be expensive also , depending where you live. If you don't mind the dings and want some great grain, try red cedar. Price is pretty reasonable , stains fairly well, looks great, and is easy to work with. For dark colors , let the stain almost dry , before wiping. Just did some nice base, crown, and wainscot cap in cedar. Very happy with the results. If I could figure out this digital camera, I would post a pic.

    Brudoggie

1. 
   Piffin | May 06, 2002 10:06pm | #5

   Fir is hard to mill easily because it is splintery.

   Pine is soft and expenmsive but will work.

   I agree some cedaar is pretty but it is too soft for base or door casings.

   Poplar is great milling and price but you just have to pick it for grain if staining. some is good and some stinks

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   r_ignacki | May 07, 2002 01:08am | #6

   pine, poplar,birch,fir, etc, no matter what species, even that rubber flex stuff, get yourself a skilled painter, pre stain, dye,etc ,can make anything look like a million bucks.  

1. 
   MisterT | May 07, 2002 01:19am | #7

   Poplar while kind of soft is a good cadidate for a natural finish.

   While some people balk at the green sapwood ( or is it the heart, I should know this!!)

   It will turn a very attractive brown after it gets  some light.

   I agree that clear pine is too blah for the mega$$$ you pay for it.

   Yellow pine however has some character.

   Fir is the caddilac of soft-woods IMNSHO.

   T

   Layers

   Onions

   Have

   Layers,

   Carpenters

   Have

   Layers

2. 
   adzend | May 08, 2002 05:07am | #9

   Thanks for the suggestions.  I'm gonna look into red cedar, but it seems here on Long Island everyone you ask says "get some oak from Home Depot".  I hate going there and I don't like their selection.  Other opinions appreciated.  Thanks

   Edited 5/7/2002 10:36:10 PM ET by br

1. 
   andybuildz | May 09, 2002 03:50am | #10

   BR...I also live on LI and theres lots of places to go for hardwoods other then the box store. Try Burt Lumber in Huntington...or if you really wanna get a fair amount of stuff I'd reccomend Condons Lumber in White Plains I think.....Actuqally I think they advertise in FH. I've gotten mills of lumber from them and its awesome. Give me a call if you need any advice. http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COMIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

2. 
   Qtrmeg | May 09, 2002 04:47am | #11

   Don't go with cedar for interior trim, geesh, you think pine is soft...

   I am wondering about the details, you said this is a remove and replace? What about the windows, doors, jambs? And just what is the rap about stained pine, (I've only done about a million feet of it)? Oak for trim? Style, design goals?

   Dunno, not enough info.

3. 
   Piffin | May 09, 2002 05:28am | #12

   On Long Island and NYC area, check out a place called Dykes Lumber

   main# 212-929-3580

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Homewright | May 09, 2002 08:26am | #13

   I live out where red cedar is grown and harvested (Portland, OR) and I'll agree with the concensus that it's not a good choice for custom trim.  The moisure content alone makes it prohibitive.  Not to mention it's just too soft to stand up to anything more than a sneeze the next room away.  It's gorgeous stuff and I love using it in its proper application but I've seen jobs where it was used inside and within two months, all that fine cutting and fitting was for naught because it dried out, shrank, and the joints opened up.  You'd have to warehouse the stuff for a year on stickers with a big fan blowing the whole time to stabilize it enough to even consider it for trim.  Good luck finding an alternative.

1. 
   Brudoggie | May 09, 2002 05:20pm | #14

   Homewright is on the mark about the moisture content of cedar, but with care in that department, and in the staining - finishing process, it can be as trouble free as most soft woods. A good poly finish improves durability, but it still dents easily.( is this a problem) My application is desiring a distressed , rustic look, so cedar functions well. Some hardwoods I haven't seen mentioned yet, that I recomend are:

    White ash- great grain, usually more reasonable than oak, stains well, can be a bit tricky to mill.

    Alder- out of the ordinary, works and stains well, price isn't too outrageous.

    Yellow birch- cheap in my area, looks great- some highly figured grain and color variations, Can be a bit tricky to mill and stain. I find lighter colors work better.

    Sorry to offend so many by using an " outdoor wood" inside, at times product is a result of decorators vision and not craftsmans sensibilities.

    Best to all.

    Brudoggie

4. 
   adzend | May 13, 2002 06:02am | #15

   Thanks all for the advice and your time.  Since the room I'm presently doing is a childs bedroom I,ll probably use whatever is cheapest, and save my money for the more prominent rooms in the house(like the bar/den).