Hello all. Have a Q re: the hottub that we inherited with our house. 4Lorn1, DanH, Bill – I look forward to any thoughts you have on this topic. 🙂
I need to replace the emergency disconnect that is located outside by the tub. The current disconnect is an old GFCI subpanel attached to the house exterior, rusting as it is exposed to the elements with no cover. The current kill switch is a double pole 40A breaker, which as said, is exposed to the elements. I’m guessing this thing is going on 15-20 years old. That panel has an internal GFCI with test and reset switches above the breaker, but it is redundant as the main breaker panel in the house has a dedicated double pole 40A GFCI breaker for the hottub (put in by the prior owners when they rewired the house a few years ago – but left this panel in place).
At my local electrical supply shop (not HD), I picked up a single phase non-fused 60A 240V pullout switch, rainproof type 3R enclosure, as would be used with an AC unit. The shop advised this was what I needed. It’s an ACD, model ACD-1. It has 2 line terminals for the black and red coming from the main panel, 2 loads to the tub and 2 equip ground terminals, but no neutral terminals.
The spa controller is 220V, single phase (model LX10): http://www.sbsg-equipment.com/spabuilderssection/index.html
My Q is with respect to the neutral wire coming from the main panel and from the tub. Is it ok to just wire nut the neutrals inside the disconnect box? Or do I need a different disconnect box with a neutral bus?
Thanks in advance for your advice. Cheers, Paul
Edited 8/19/2004 11:56 am ET by varoom
Replies
First, determine if the spa actually needs a neutral. It's possible it's pure 240v without a neutral requirement.
If a neutral is needed it would be a bit more secure to use a neutral bus bar (insulated from ground) rather than a wire nut. Such a thing is probably available as an add-on, if you look in the right place. Don't use a grounded bus bar, or use the ground lugs for neutral, both because that's a code violation and because it will trip the GFCI.
However (keeping in mind I'm not a "NEC lawyer"), I don't think it would be a code violation to use a wire nut. Given the conditions, though, I'd favor using one of the underground nuts filled with silicone gel.
I agree.
This is nothing more or nothing less than a 2 pole switch. Just wirenuting the neutral connections should be fine.
Bill - thanks as well. Cheers, Paul
Thanks (once again) Dan. I'll check the main panel and the tub wiring to see if the neutral is connected. If so, I will connect with the siliconed wire nut (excellent suggestion) after another trip to mecca - the non-HD electrical shop. If not required, I will isolate the neutral. Cheers, Paul.