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Tina, one way to support the shelf would be to insert a dowel into a stud in the wall then into the back of the shelf. You would have to be precise in your measurements!
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Tina, one way to support the shelf would be to insert a dowel into a stud in the wall then into the back of the shelf. You would have to be precise in your measurements!
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Tina, Wrong discussion board ,try (Fine Woodworking) "Knots"
b But you asked,
they are simple torsian boxes fastened via a cleat on the wall and the shelf is attached to cleat after assembly.
OK for some books, not a full shelf though. We often install these in prairie and craftsmen style homes. Good luck......
If you need more help email, or post it on the other forum and you will get a better response.
*Anderson -- thanks. Posted it over there right away. But would like input from all quarters...Understand there are quite a few creative "inventors" out there...no frozen chickens needed for this project.
*Tina,The shelves in the picture look like there is an angled trim band applied around the perimeter. I think I also see a slight reveal in the bottom of the shelves. This could be a hardwood veneered plywood upper shelf component with spacers across the width with another piece of thinner veneer plywood for the bottom disguising the fact there is a space between where brackets would fit. A heavy, maybe 1/4 inch steel strap, screwed horizontally to the wall into the studs, fabricated with multple fingers sticking out about 6-8 inches, could hold up the shelves. The back edge of the shelf could be rabbeted to accept the thickness of the strap and put the shelves flush to the wall.Or, a cheap way, use angle brackets on the top of each shelf and disguise them as books.Or, you remember how they made Peter Pan fly?Or, I bet someone on BT has invented the skyhook by now and may be willing to share.Just hangin' in there, Ralph
*I saw that picture recently, and I can't remember where -- one of my wife's magazines? Anyway, I thought it covered how it was done. Can you remind me where that came from?
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tina, shelves are attached with keyhole slots routed in the back. screws are then screwed into studs or suitable anchor. set shelves on wall and screws, slide sideways to engage. are those books full size?
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I thought of the keyholes too but how do you stop the shelf from tipping forward?
*Ryan, Look in the router bit section and check out the bit (often called picture hanging bits) that make these slots. You plunge the bit and then make the slot deeper into the wood. As you can see, the way they are constructed with vertical pieces, they can't tip if the top piece is securely anchored.
*Hafele Hardware also has hardware for this type of application; not rugged enough for a lot of books though, but it will give you the look. Can be installed into a stud or masonry wall; basically you install a threaded insert into the wall, then a post threads into the insert, and shelf (prebored)is slipped onto the post. The post has an eccentric sleeve for levelling of the shelf. The posts are about 4 3/4" long (so the shelf can be deeper: max 11 3/4 " wide, but can't carry much weight at that size. According to the chart, a 9 3/4" wide shelf, supported every 27.5" (max) can support 60 kg/sq. metre with an evenly distributed load. A 6" shelf can support better than 100 kg/ sq. metre.I have a few sets in the shop, for an upcoming job, but haven't used them yet. They look well designed, and they are reasonably priced; I think they go about $5 Cdn each, have to buy six at a time.
*Picture was from an Ace Hardware ad. I heard from someone over at Fine Woodworking "Knots" that Popular Woodworking Magazine in April issue published how to do this -- apparently Ace had so many requests like mine, they let that magazine publish the plans. Now, if I could just find a copy (our choice of magazines out here is pretty limited).
*Gee, Tina, this is the land of the World Wide Web and the home of the capitalist! Companies love free attention. Stands to reason Ace would post their plans. A-ha! http://www.acehardware.com/hints/tipsproj/bookshelf.aspDon't be so shy with the hints. I had that sense of dejâ-vu, too, but no idea where I saw the picture.
*The verticals are only on one end of the shelf. I guess it would stay up if nothing too heavy was put on it but I'd worry that that free end would be alittle springy.
*Hey, that looks a bit like I described it. Less expensive too than welding up steel for the supports. Now, if they printed stuff like that in FHB or FW, tripled the size of the magazine, then there would be no need for those other publications and all the look up would be easier. (An all encompassing index would be nice, too).
*Andrew -- not bad, for a Reb. Thanks for hunting down the site. As a former Advertising/PR flack, I should have known to go straight to Ace the place with the friendly hardware man. I owe you a tall cool one in the woodshed. My excuse is we've finally moved into the house and I'm unpacking..and unpacking...and unpacking, while carpenters politely dodge flying cartons.
*Tina, if you really want to support these shelves full of books, (as opposed to knick-nacks) then you need to cheat: diagonal sheetmetal braces from the top surface of the shelf to the studs in the wall. They're a triangle with a 1/2 flange on two edges, one flange for the shelf, one for the wall. You need to rout a 1/2" stopped rabbit for the lower flange. It sounds horrible, but the flanges dissappear in the books. Wouldn't do for public access - you need to know the braces are there and avoid them with adjacent books, but I've never found that a problem in private. I've even done this with lengths of black enameled coat-hanger wire, back when I was a starving student. Good luck with whateve you try.
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This is a really small project...but can't figure out how to build shelves like this that can be strong enough to hold books, etc. Photo attached (I hope)...Thanks! Tina