There’s lots of moisture in the house we’re building. Rain has soaked crawl space and being in the Seattle area it’s been raining almost every day.
Roof is on but we won’t get gas to furnace for a couple of weeks.
Once we get heat and the dehuidifier running what moisture content should I look for in framing before drywall?
I will put plastic on crawlspace dirt once gutters are installed.
Replies
Since it doesn't appear that anybody who knows anything answered your post, here's a bump. Good Luck!
>Since it doesn't appear that anybody who knows anything answered your post, here's a bump.Don't want to hijack this thread but what do you mean about the "bump"? I've seen that a number of other places and been puzzled by it.
Nice people "bump" messages by posting a response which keeps the thread visible when you open the forum
Bump your message toward the top of the list, to give others a chance to answer...the techno-geeks among us will give you a more technical answer, but this is the effect...
Good Luck!
Looks to me that youve got problems after reading your post twice.
12 percent on lumber if you can get it . But you are not going to get it for a while, if then in Seattle. Plastic has to be installed first and how did water get in the crawl space ? How much water you talking about ? Theres quite a differnce in damp ground and a foot of water. Building inspector wont allow any insulation or drywall when he sees it . Has he made the framing inspection? Bank loan officer been out to chat and give you a framing draw?
If I were you I would do some trenching and pumping right now underneath. If the out side is not fixed Id get on it . Its pretty serious. Be real serious if it starts mold.
Tim
Everything Mooney said, but with lots of exclamation points!An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
The crawl space is very "damp" but no standing water. The soil is sandy and drains well.
Water is getting in because gutters are not on yet. The framer opted to not build eave returns and take a backcharge. Siders are going to do them as they work around the building. Then I can have gutters installed and stop water coming in the vent wells.
Once the water stops coming in I'll put down plastic in crawl.
We passed exterior shear inspection but haven't had framing inspection yet.
Thanks for your reply.
It's funny that you ask. The builders on the Wash coast don't stop for nothing . Once it's framed/sheathed. The siding/roof goes on. From there, it is only the time for the mechanicals to go in before it is insulated and drywalled. But, they use kiln dried lumber(like it's going to help when it has rained for 38 days staight).
Kiln dried lumber is standardized max surface moisture content at 19%
So if you can dry it to that standard, you are fine. I would be looking for 111-12% in trim lumber but I doubt you will get to that dry with wet framing
But you definitely need to control the moisture first. Trying to dry the wood while leaving an uncontrolled situation in the crawlspace is like bailing the boat without bunging the hole
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I know I need to stop moisture first. I'll get heat and gutters and run dehumidifier. I'll also plastic the crawl dirt.
What I was looking for was how dry and seem to have a consensus that 12% is ideal. I'll see how close I get.
Thanks everybody.