I need to replace some 4 inch can lights with IC-rated cans. The ceiling where the cans are located has a flat roof above the ceiling joists, so there is no attic access. Unfortunately, they do not make a 4 inch remodeling can that is rated. However, I may be able to slide new work IC-rated cans into place from the soffits. The problem there is that there is no way to nail the frames into the joists. Can I caulk the frame onto the drywall using high temperature caulking? The can itself would still be able to be removed from the insulated housing.
Option 2 is upsizing to a 6 inch remodeler can that is IC rated. Option 3 is cutting out sections of the ceiling to install the new-work lights and then repair the drywall.
I have 26 of these to change, so any help would be appreciated.
Aaron
Replies
opt for oprtion 2
bump
Is there a problem with using the remodeler can? It's what they are designed for -
I've seen hackier stuff than cans secured with caulk, but that doesn't make it right -
Going with the larger remodeler cans has a few downsides. First, we would have to get 26 new trims, so that is an expense of about $750 for what we want. We have 8 foot ceilings, so while the 4 inch cans seem appropriately sized, the 6 inch seems pretty big. There is also a 5 inch can, but the trims are pretty limited.
I worked on a home two years ago in which millions of $ of arch. millwork was installed.
All the recessed lights in the ceiling panels were put in place with PL Polyurethane construction adhesive.
This was done before the panels were installed. They could have done it several ways but this was the preferred method to them. The electricians didn't want to risk putting screws into the wood panels.
So yes, gluing them in is a reasonable option....buic
The only difference I see between the two types is that the new work has the frame to nail to the woodwork, while the remodel has the clips to hold it to the drywall.
I would take off the frame on the new work can and carefully drill three small (1/16 or 3/32) holes just at the top of where the drywalledge will be when the can is fully seated. Wire and place the cans, then send a 1" long sheetmetal screw through those holes to "clip" it in place.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I agree, take the frame of of the new construction cans, and modify them to work in your situation. If you have to, glue some 1x's along side the hole, screw them throught the rock where the screws will be covered by the trim (if possible, and then scew the cans into them from the inside.
Thanks to all. I think that gives me a couple of different ideas to consider. Here's a picture of what I will be working with, which is a little different than how the larger insulated cans look:
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