Hi, I messed up the framing for my interior door rough opening and now need to ad.d another 2X4 at the jamb and header. Problem is that the drywall is done, taped, primed and painted. Making my ro 30″ for a 28″ door, which means I now have about 3 1/4″ from the reveal to the edge of the drywall.
Should I install drywall 1.5″ wide on the new stud and finish the butt joint (worried about cracking so not sure this will work) just install trim about 3.5″ wide (may have look out scale since the doors only 76″ high). Also thought about filling the 1.5″ gap with drywall compound but not sure about that.
The doors are custom so no taking them back. By the way got them at lowes and they cost 103 each. A lumber yard was just gonna take a standard door and cut them down but wanted 113 each.
Thanks
Dan
Replies
I myself, would cut drywall and tape it.
I'd rip some 1x to whatever width you have for a wall thickness at this point and build out both sides and the top.
Maybe I'm not fully understanding the problem, but if you're only an inch and half too big can't you just add a 3/4" rip to both sides, center the door in the opening and still cover the smaller gap with the casing you'd planned on?
Another vote for wide casing. I like wide casings anyway.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
My standard casings are 3 & 5/8 I would have gone wider if the dw would have let me.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
I may be pretty tight, but - Could you get a door that's 2" wider into the opening?
Like going from a 30" door to a 32" ?
What am I missing here? I usually make my r.o. 2.5" larger then the door. Actually the last r.o. I made 2" larger than the door barely gave me enough room for the door. Luckily I framed the door opening really well.
Color me lost....I'd rough a 28" door at 30"...door+3/4"jambs+shim space..30"...maybe meant a 2-8 door at 3-0?
My guess is that he meant to say he framed his rough opening for a 3'0" door when what he should have framed for was a 2'8" door?"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Just rock the hinge side and tape it. I've done it before with no problems down the line at all.
Or like others are saying add 1x to each side and a bit wider casing. I doubt it'd look out of scale at all.
If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]
Mud and tape. You'll be done before this thread is stalled.
blue
Why not buy the right size door? It will be a whole lot easier than putting a band-aid on your RO. You're entitled to sh!t.---Tony Soprano
Bold trim, very bold trim.
"Making my ro 30" for a 28" door, which means I now have about 3 1/4" from the reveal to the edge of the drywall."
What am I missing here? I always make the rough opening 2" bigger then the door. I would've made the same 30" RO as you did for a 28" door.
I'm thinking Huck had it right when he thought the mistake was really a 3' 0"
opening was framed for a 2' 8" door, therefore being 4" too big.
Only thing that makes sense.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
ok i am lost here i make my r o's 2.5" bigger so i don't get it why will the 28"door not fit in the 30 ro hmmmmmmmmmmm
"ok i am lost here i make my r o's 2.5" bigger so i don't get it why will the 28"door not fit in the 30 ro hmmmmmmmmmmm"I make all RO's 2" bigger then the doors and they fit. So the RO for a 28" door is 30" and the RO for a 30" door is 32" and the doors always fit. I've read here that some other guys make their RO's 2.5" bigger aslo but I've always made them 2" bigger and never had any problems.What's your point? Joe Carola
i was reading the original post and could not under stand the guy's delema ???
if he was 2"bigger why the door would not fit .and why he need's to fill anything in
unless he was going to hang the door on the studs or i am reading wrong
and i like to go 2.5"bigger cuz we use 4.5" caseing @ times and we have room just incase their is a switch no cutting the plate .
but anyway off to work i go building newl post's today .
I may have not been clear. i have already install the drywall which covers only one stud on each side of the opening, may concern is that now that i have add another stud the casing will not reach the dryawll example using a 3/16" reveal leaves 9/16+ 1" shim space +1 1/2" stud leaves me needing a casing over 3". The doors where custom order so I dont think I can take them back.
Also would like to use screws to hang door any recommendations?
Thanks
Dan
"Also would like to use screws to hang door any recommendations?"
Don't screw those up.
Sorry - But you left yourself wide open for that one.
(-:
Need a good screw? [Ace Hardware]
Add a 1x4 to each side of the r.o. Now the opening is correct.You say you would like to use screws to hang door?I suppose you mean to install the jamb.You can use screws,the hole should be a little larger than the screw thru the jamb, then a smaller pilot hole for the screw.If the hole in the jamb is not larger , the jamb will hang up on the screw as you try to adjust the shims.Remove the stop and screw thru to studs.Reapply the stop.You also can screw behind the hinge, skip this unless necessary.
mike