My new formica kitchen countertop arrived with the 4″ backsplash unattached. Do I run a bead of yellow glue between the countertop and backsplash and then use constructive adhesive to hold the splash to the wall? I don’t want any water to seep under the backsplash and damage my nice new countertop in this rental. Thanks for all advice.
Replies
Run a bead of silicone caulk on the top. Set the splash on it and calmp it down, then run a few screws from the bottom of the counter top up into the splash. Clean up the squeeze out of caulk and set the top per normal installation.
Dave
It's easier if you just run a couple of sheetrock screws through the splash and into the studs ... holds tighter. And since the screws are temporary, it's ok to use sheetrock screws in place of grk's. Be sure to buy the matching filler to close up the holes."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
what am I missing?
"run a couple of sheetrock screws through the splash and into the studs"
I would not want to put any holes in my nice new backsplash. Also, can you tell me what are grk's? A type of clamp?
C'mon guys, I was joking. You know how it's tough to find some way to hold the splash tight to the wall until the adhesive sets up ... well if you screw through the face of the splash into the studs, you can draw the splash up nice and tight. And I suggested using sheetrock screws as another bit of sarcasm. Nevermind.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Edited 9/25/2007 8:17 pm ET by FastEddie
oops
Some folks think they're the best screws made. It's a brand name.
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"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
They're good.
And expensive.
But they still manage to booger up enough of the heads with #### so their tips don't work easy on enough of them that I get pissed and whip 'em across the yard.
And there's always a couple "plugs" in the container which do end up making handy "drifts" for hinge pin removal etc.
Nothing's perfect.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I have actually used GRK trimhead screws to screw through a splash into a stud on several occasions to improve the fit, but I have seamfil in every color imaginable along with me. Filling in a trimhead screw is not that bad.
I REALLY like Calvin's kickers and spring sticks, good old- time method, and it leaves no holes ta fix.
Funny thing come winter, those spring sticks get renamed-kindling.
And there's been more than one time I've grabbed a handfull out of the kindling pile on the way to the van.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
You can fasten the splash to the wall with construction adhesive. Leave the countertop loose until the adhesive has set and the splash is tight to the wall. Then crawl up inside the base cabinet and drive some small wedges to force the back edge of the top tight against the splash. This will minimize the crack between the top and the splash. Now you can fasten the top down. Water can still get in there, so get some color-match caulk and caulk the joint between the top and the splash.
I run a healthy bead of a Geocel caulk (color matched to the top) or ................another good brand of adhesive caulk along the countertop. Silicone, const. adhesive or adhesive caulk blobs along the backside of the loose splash. Bed the splash into the caulk on the top and push the splash into the wall.
Hold down with "thin" strips of wood wedged from the bottom of the uppers onto the top of the splash.
Clean up the oozed out caulk along the countertop and then clamp "kickers" on the top to push the splash against the wall.
Take all the #### off holding it down tomorrow morning.
Clear geocel caulk (or color matched) along the splash/ct edge, wiping with a damp cloth so you take most of the caulk away.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks Calvin.
Could you explain "kickers" to me. Are they thin strips of wood clamped to the front edge of the countertop?
Rick, could be a 2x4 or a 1x something. You lay flat on the counter, push towards the wall (splash) and clamp tite to the overhanging front of the counter. You can do it wherever the splash needs to spring back into the wall. This of course presumes you set the counter deck and are installing loose splash.
I wouldn't attempt to drill and screw a backsplash to a top unless the top was out and you could assure yourself not running the drillbit or screw up and out of the counter, missing the splash. I don't know how you could hit it with the counter installed. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
after the top is installed, put the backsplash up against the wall. If it looks good as far as gaps along the top (there should be no gaps across the bottom), then use construction adhesive across the back, and stick it to the wall. If not, then you can predrill from in the cabinets through the top put the adhseive on the backsplash, hold it firmly agianst the wall and have someone screw up into the bottom the the back splash. This should hold it to the contour of the wall. Another method I've used is to screw blocks onto the wall and down over the back splash to hold it till the adhesive sets up. Then remove the blocks and repair the screw holes. I've also used hot melt to stick it at the ends till the adhesive sets up. It always seems to be the ends that flop around.
I like PowerGrab construction adhesive gluing the splash to the wall. It has high intial tack, is white, and cleans up with water...perfect for finish work.