Replies

1. 
   Jay20 | Apr 13, 2009 11:31pm | #1

   I have bad experience with installing paneling on top of drywall without priming. In fact today I prime twice. Use  mastic with a notched trowel.

2. 
   Dudley | Apr 13, 2009 11:43pm | #2

   Probably over kill but I revove dw and glue my beadboard to 3/8ths or 1/2 inch ply

3. 
   paulbny | Apr 14, 2009 03:00am | #3

   We install a lot of this as 36" tall wainscoating with windsor casing used as chair rail above.  We use Liquid nails and 1/4" staples top and bottom to hold it until it sets.  Base covers the bottom staples and chair rail covers the top ones.  We find you need to caulk the seams as our beadboard is pre-primed and the painters spray it with semigloss.  If you don't caulk, you see the seams. 

1. 
   frammer52 | Apr 14, 2009 04:36pm | #5

   Same practise of installation and same results.  I have installed over plaster with no problems either.

2. 
   BillA | Apr 14, 2009 09:51pm | #8

   I've heard not great things about Liquid Nails - that it drys hard and gets brittle. Maybe you have better luck.

4. 
   HOMEDIMENSIONS | Apr 14, 2009 03:33pm | #4

   Remove the drywall and put plywood down.  Thats way you can shim the beam against the plywood to get rid of any waves.  Cap it with a chair rail and cover the bottom with some base and your good to go.  If you are doing styles and rails with this treatment then nail the bead board to them first and then set everything as one unit.  Good luck have fun and be safe

   Derek Weiss    [email protected]

   "When the job is perfect, we're almost done."

5. 
   JDRHI | Apr 14, 2009 05:24pm | #6

   Is this a rental?

   If so, I would recomend against wood wainscotte in a full bath.

   Just asking for more maintenance issues.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

    

    

    

   
   

1. 
   BillA | Apr 14, 2009 09:46pm | #7

   yes. this is a rental

1. 
   user-51823 | Apr 14, 2009 09:54pm | #9

   I HATE beadboard in bathrooms and kitchens, and would never put it in a rental- too many nooks and crannies to catch dust dirt hair and pee. Choose a smooth surface if you want your tenants to have an easier time keeping it clean.

2. 
   JDRHI | Apr 14, 2009 11:19pm | #10

   My opinion......find an inexpensive and color nuetral tile and use it for your wainscotte.

   It'll hold up better over time and make cleaning infinetly easier.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

    

    

    

3. 
   frammer52 | Apr 14, 2009 11:32pm | #11

   HD has an inexpensive vinyl beadboard that will hold up better in  bathroom than wood.

6. 
   Pelipeth | Apr 15, 2009 03:13am | #12

   Rental/flip? Find the studs, use PL premium const. adhesive and nail. It won't go anywhere. Being a fixer-upper, I'd just use T-111, in lieu of beadboard.

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 15, 2009 05:40am | #13

   Find the studs...

   Beadboard runs parallel to the studs. ;-)~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

1. 
   JDRHI | Apr 15, 2009 05:58am | #14

   Yeah.....he doesn't sound terribly concerned.

   After all.....it's just a flip.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

    

    

    

2. 
   Pelipeth | Apr 15, 2009 12:49pm | #15

   He's using sheet goods, with adhesive, nailing into the sticks, and some in the "field" the paneling won't move. For the beadboard look and in a bathroom I'd use AZEK sheet goods.

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 15, 2009 04:31pm | #16

   Ahh... I didn't catch the "paneling" part.

   I checked out Azek website and couldn't find any beaded paneling, just sticks.

   http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=7~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

1. 
   FatRoman | Apr 15, 2009 06:59pm | #17

   Azek makes beadboard sheets, too. I've seen it.See page 15 here
   http://www.parksite.com/productgroups/brochures/brochure211_88.pdf'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

   View Image

2. 
   Ted W. | Apr 15, 2009 10:11pm | #18

   Yup, that'll do it. Guess I shouldn't have interupted man who doing it.

   View Image~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

3. 
   FatRoman | Apr 15, 2009 10:21pm | #19

   Now since I'm thinking about using some of this PVC beadboard, I'm leaning toward the individual planks as opposed to the sheets. Seems like it would be easier to hide the nails in the plank tongues than to go back and Bondo the holes in the sheet, no?The planks aren't going to expand/contract like real wood, so that's a plus.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

   View Image

4. 
   Ted W. | Apr 15, 2009 10:41pm | #20

   What about the adhesive to use? What's going to stick to PVC, other than the cement used in plumbing connections. Would polyurethane caulks melt into it and make a bond?

   Also, I don't imagine painting it is an option, if OP is thinking of anything besides matte white. Maybe one of them ultra-bonding primers could be used.~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

5. 
   FatRoman | Apr 15, 2009 10:59pm | #21

   Not sure what adhesive to use. That's a good question.This just says to consult the adhesive manufacturer for guidance.
   http://www.versatex.com/pvc101_fastening.phpBut you certainly can paint it. I talked to reps from both Azek and Versatex and they each recommended painting.http://www.versatex.com/pvc101_painting.phpThe Versatex is a little smoother on the surface, at least on the samples I brought back. But it also seemed a bit easier to dent, too.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

   View Image

6. 
   Pelipeth | Apr 15, 2009 10:59pm | #22

   They have it in 4x8 sheets and now AZEK comes with all 4 sides dressed (finished), in their product line. Big improvement...........

7. 
   Ted W. | Apr 15, 2009 11:41pm | #23

   It's finished? Yet they recommend painting it. I know it has a matte finish, so I have to guess that means you can leave it as is or paint it.

   I'd still use a bonding primer. ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

8. 
   JDRHI | Apr 16, 2009 12:03am | #24

   Well...if installed correctly, all the nail (fastener) holes are going to require puttying.

   Never understood certain prefinished materials.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

    

    

    

9. 
   Ted W. | Apr 16, 2009 01:12am | #26

   Yeah, I looked again. Lot's of nailing in the field.

   But then, if it's adhered to a solid surface (plywood, drywall, sound plaster..) I see no reason for all that extra nailing. Personally, I would nail where it's hidden.~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

10. 
    Pelipeth | Apr 16, 2009 12:06am | #25

    Azek, has up until now only had the face of their 1x and 5/4 stock finished. Somewhat matte. Now the edges will also be finished, smooth, less likely to hold dirt etc and much easier to clean. Personally I never have painted Azek, if the trim is gonna be white, my take is why? I'm real picky but not down that road. I'm in the process of replacing all the exterior trim on my home with it and ain't gonna paint it.

11. 
    Ted W. | Apr 16, 2009 01:14am | #27

    I agree, if it's gonna be white there's no reason to paint it. But for anything other than white paint is the only way to make it so.~ Ted W ~

    Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

12. 
    Pelipeth | Apr 16, 2009 02:11am | #28

    Very true and they claim (Azek), no primer needed.

13. 
    brownbagg | Apr 16, 2009 03:04am | #29

    they dont sell azek around here