I’m about to start work installing glass panels in the log truss in the pic. (What you see is poly – real classy huh?)
It will be a simple case of placing a wooden stop strip, then the panel, then another stop strip. I’m told that fixed glass panels are normally installed from outside. These panels would be far easier to install from the inside. Any reason not to?
Thanks,
Scott.
Edited 8/6/2008 12:30 pm by Scott
Replies
from the inside is fine.
as long as you have the exterior sill flashings done properly, i would prefer to set from the interior.
carpenter in transition
silicone caulk is flashing, right ?
carpenter in transition
There isn't a problem installing it from the inside. All of Andersen's direct set glass is installed from the inside. Silicone well between the outside of the glass and the stop; also between the outside stop and the frame. Finish with a bead of silicone where the outside of the glass meets the exterior stop. Make sure the silicone you use is approved by the manufacturer of the insulated glass. Also the glass should set on shims....we use 1/8" to 1/4" thick pieces of rubber. The glass should not set on the jamb. After the glass is in place just tack the interior stop, with no glue or silicone. You can use finish nails or trim screws.
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"Finish with a bead of silicone where the outside of the glass meets the exterior stop. "How do you do that from the inside..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill said:"Finish with a bead of silicone where the outside of the glass meets the exterior stop. "How do you do that from the inside?You don't.....you'll need a ladder to do that part from the outside..View Image
My great concern would be that the timbers are well seasoned and don't move anymore. Be sure the glass is well undersized and use rubber fillers to allow movement.
I have installed a lot of fixed panels from inside.
Caulk the outer strips well when seating them, and a seal of glass to those strips. Be absolutely sure that you get it all in plane so the glass is not being warped/farced out of plane when installing it. Watch the weather report so you are not doing this on a windy day
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I'm guessing that wall is weight bearing with the absence of collar ties. If you're in an area with snow load considerations those upper triangles are gonna be tricky giving them support without totally capturing them. Any lateral pressure on the glass may cause seal failure or cracking.
Thanks, all, great advice all around.Piffin: The house was built three years ago (yes, that poly has lasted that long), and it sat uninsulated for six months while I did the wiring. I think it's as stable as it's going to get.Sledge: You can't see it in the pic, but there's a beefy 18" cedar ridge log on top of the king post and a cold roof with 14" exposed fir rafters above that. It's worked well.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
actually sledge focused on something I did not see. I was thinking just about the glass seating situation and not the overall structural movement.Is there more header over that lower window that the kingpost is bearing on?What makes up the top chord of the gable truss there? The fact you have beefy stuff up over this makes no difference if the header under the king is insufficient and the trusss itself is not integrated within itself to fully support the loads of that roof with minimal deflection.
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If you use silicone, you will not be able to paint the stops in the future.
First, draw a line around where the stops will go, as Piffin said, they have to be in the same plane.
2nd Use elastomeric caulk to caulk the sops down to the timber all around and be sure to seal the corners. Then clean the squeeze out with soapy water and a putty knife.
3rd Apply those little silicon self stick drawer bumpers to the stops all around about 12" apart. This will prevent too much of the sealant from squeezing out. Then apply caulk to the inside portion of the stops, more is better, you want it to squeeze out to be sure the glass is sealed to the stops.
4th Use rubber shims to cushion the bottom of the glass and then install the glass.
5th Have the inside stops pre cut and apply 1/16" black foam double sided tape to the leading edge of the stops. The edge you see from the interior. Peel 6" from each side and put in place then peel the rest out. Repeat all around and then finish nail the stops in place.
I you want sources for the shims and caulk, let me know.
Edit was for spelling.
"It is what it is."
Edited 8/6/2008 10:19 pm ET by ChicagoMike
Mike,I'm doing some fixed glass in the near future. I'm getting conflicting advice as to the best sealant, glazing tape ect.I built hundreds of wood frame, fixed panel in a shop 20+ years ago,,,I know we were not using silicone, nor am I inclined to now.I'm curious as to what you use and where you source it.Many thanks, Harry
If it's insulated glass your best advice to maintain a warranty is ask the glass manufacturer.
Top end window manufacturers only use silicone.
sledge,I guessing that may be true for vinal and clad windows.And it may be true for an all wood window produced under factory contitions.On a site built window that will be painted or stained,,,,, I'm not sure silicone is the answer. I know there were,,,, and I'm guessing there still are other options.The stuff I was using 20 years ago was close to a butyl (sp) caulk.Thanks, Harry
In the last 20 years they have come a long way on silicone perimeter sealents....
They come in all kinds of colors now.
"Apply those little silicon self stick drawer bumpers to the stops all around about 12" apart. This will prevent too much of the sealant from squeezing out."Thanks for my tip of the week for myself!Also, I could use a source for black double sided tape.
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Yeah, the biggest enemy of reglazing or new glazing is not leaving enough material between the glass and the stops. All glazing movement is set by a multiplier so if it will expand by 100% this means it will only move to a max of 1/8" which is usually enough for glazing. But if you squeese out all of the glazing and leave 1/64" in there, it will break at 1/32"
And by the way, I am honored that Piffin the great liked one of my ideas and asked me a question!!!
Thanks bud. I will post the sources to all next post.
"It is what it is."
Souce for the tape,
http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/9/98418X38BL_2589.html?Origin=
And the glazing,
Acryl-R SM 8500 Acrylic Caulk
ERSystems - Elastomeric Roofing Systems, Inc
6900 Bleck Dr
Rockford, MN 55373 USA
1-800-403-7747 (For product information)
And by the way, I happen to work very closely with a major window manufacturer and silicone is ONLY used in clad situations. If it is wood, the elastomeric is used due to it's strength, flexion, adhesion, and most importantly in the case of wood, it is paintable.
"It is what it is."
"I am honored that Piffin the great liked one... "The city of Chicago is not the only thing that is windy where you live...;)
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LOL!
Yeah, thanks.
ChicagoMike is a nickname I picked up at a job I had years ago. I am from Chicago but moved to the Albany, NY. area in 1999.
"It is what it is."
>>>Is there more header over that lower window that the kingpost is bearing on?Ya, good point. It's all been figured, engineered, and stamped. See the pic with labels. The whole wall is pretty much solid wood (read "Nasty Thermal Bridging"), but the free heat from the wood stove offsets the nastiness. >>>What makes up the top chord of the gable truss there?If I understand your question, that would be the rough sawn 2X14 DF rafters.>>>The fact you have beefy stuff up over this makes no difference if the header under the king is insufficient and the trusss itself is not integrated within itself to fully support the loads of that roof with minimal deflection.I completely agree. At this point (three years later), I've seen no signs of stress in the windows below or any other structural issues. Here's hoping.....Scott.
Edited 8/7/2008 1:37 am by Scott
I cede to the engineer then. Didn't know if it had been engineered or if it was a seat of the pants thing.
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Scott:
With fear of stating the obvious, make sure your stops are well sealed (painted, stained, eurethaned, etc. prior to intalling)
I've seen some nasty rot around windows because the seal at the stops failed and all hell broke loose
Nice tip, thanks.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Do you have a progress report?
"It is what it is."
>>>Do you have a progress report?...Patience, grasshopper....Sorry for the glacial pace, this is going to take a few weeks. I've ordered some rough sawn cedar stock for the sills, then I'll need to bevel it and make up the stops from some nice dry D. fir that is leaning against the house. Then I'll have the somewhat intimidating job of making templates for the triangular glass panels, something I don't want to screw up (could be an expensive mistake if I misjudge). I'm thinking about using strips of el-cheapo 1/8" mahogany ply.If you're interested I'll snap some pics along the way.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
...The other issue is that it's pretty hot here now; I might wait until temperatures are more moderate before opening up that truss to the great outdoors.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Yeah, I'd be interested in some pics. And using luan strips for template is a great idea. Remember to reduce the measurement by 3/16 all around or tell the glass co. to do it. You also may want to buy some glass cups. The ones needed for that job would be about $90 a piece, you will need 2. It would definitely be worth it.
"It is what it is."