FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Installing Glass from Inside

Scott | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 6, 2008 07:24am

I’m about to start work installing glass panels in the log truss in the pic. (What you see is poly – real classy huh?)

It will be a simple case of placing a wooden stop strip, then the panel, then another stop strip. I’m told that fixed glass panels are normally installed from outside. These panels would be far easier to install from the inside. Any reason not to?

Thanks,

Scott.


Edited 8/6/2008 12:30 pm by Scott

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. timkline | Aug 06, 2008 08:07pm | #1

    from the inside is fine.

    as long as you have the exterior sill flashings done properly, i would prefer to set from the interior.

     

    carpenter in transition

    1. timkline | Aug 07, 2008 11:46pm | #12

      silicone caulk is flashing, right ?

       carpenter in transition

  2. User avater
    jocobe | Aug 06, 2008 08:34pm | #2

    There isn't a problem installing it from the inside. All of Andersen's direct set glass is installed from the inside. Silicone well between the outside of the glass and the stop; also between the outside stop and the frame. Finish with a bead of silicone where the outside of the glass meets the exterior stop. Make sure the silicone you use is approved by the manufacturer of the insulated glass. Also the glass should set on shims....we use 1/8" to 1/4" thick pieces of rubber. The glass should not set on the jamb. After the glass is in place just tack the interior stop, with no glue or silicone. You can use finish nails or trim screws.

    .

    View Image
    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Aug 06, 2008 09:10pm | #3

      "Finish with a bead of silicone where the outside of the glass meets the exterior stop. "How do you do that from the inside..
      .
      A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

      1. User avater
        jocobe | Aug 06, 2008 10:04pm | #5

        Bill said:"Finish with a bead of silicone where the outside of the glass meets the exterior stop. "How do you do that from the inside?You don't.....you'll need a ladder to do that part from the outside..View Image

  3. Piffin | Aug 06, 2008 09:30pm | #4

    My great concern would be that the timbers are well seasoned and don't move anymore. Be sure the glass is well undersized and use rubber fillers to allow movement.

    I have installed a lot of fixed panels from inside.

    Caulk the outer strips well when seating them, and a seal of glass to those strips. Be absolutely sure that you get it all in plane so the glass is not being warped/farced out of plane when installing it. Watch the weather report so you are not doing this on a windy day

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  4. sledgehammer | Aug 06, 2008 10:49pm | #6

    I'm guessing that wall is weight bearing with the absence of collar ties. If you're in an area with snow load considerations  those upper triangles are gonna be tricky giving them support without totally capturing them. Any lateral pressure on the glass may cause seal failure or cracking.

    1. Scott | Aug 06, 2008 11:49pm | #7

      Thanks, all, great advice all around.Piffin: The house was built three years ago (yes, that poly has lasted that long), and it sat uninsulated for six months while I did the wiring. I think it's as stable as it's going to get.Sledge: You can't see it in the pic, but there's a beefy 18" cedar ridge log on top of the king post and a cold roof with 14" exposed fir rafters above that. It's worked well.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

      1. Piffin | Aug 07, 2008 12:07am | #8

        actually sledge focused on something I did not see. I was thinking just about the glass seating situation and not the overall structural movement.Is there more header over that lower window that the kingpost is bearing on?What makes up the top chord of the gable truss there? The fact you have beefy stuff up over this makes no difference if the header under the king is insufficient and the trusss itself is not integrated within itself to fully support the loads of that roof with minimal deflection. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. ChicagoMike | Aug 07, 2008 05:18am | #9

          If you use silicone, you will not be able to paint the stops in the future.

          First, draw a line around where the stops will go, as Piffin said, they have to be in the same plane.

          2nd Use elastomeric caulk to caulk the sops down to the timber all around and be sure to seal the corners. Then clean the squeeze out with soapy water and a putty knife.

          3rd Apply those little silicon self stick drawer bumpers to the stops all around about 12" apart. This will prevent too much of the sealant from squeezing out. Then apply caulk to the inside portion of the stops, more is better, you want it to squeeze out to be sure the glass is sealed to the stops.

          4th Use rubber shims to cushion the bottom of the glass and then install the glass.

          5th Have the inside stops pre cut and apply 1/16" black foam double sided tape to the leading edge of the stops. The edge you see from the interior. Peel 6" from each side and put in place then peel the rest out. Repeat all around and then finish nail the stops in place.

          I you want sources for the shims and caulk, let me know.

          Edit was for spelling.

          "It is what it is."

          Edited 8/6/2008 10:19 pm ET by ChicagoMike

          1. inperfectionist | Aug 07, 2008 10:12pm | #11

            Mike,I'm doing some fixed glass in the near future. I'm getting conflicting advice as to the best sealant, glazing tape ect.I built hundreds of wood frame, fixed panel in a shop 20+ years ago,,,I know we were not using silicone, nor am I inclined to now.I'm curious as to what you use and where you source it.Many thanks, Harry

          2. sledgehammer | Aug 08, 2008 12:50am | #13

            If it's insulated glass your best advice to maintain a warranty is ask the glass manufacturer.

            Top end window manufacturers only use silicone.

          3. inperfectionist | Aug 08, 2008 01:07am | #14

            sledge,I guessing that may be true for vinal and clad windows.And it may be true for an all wood window produced under factory contitions.On a site built window that will be painted or stained,,,,, I'm not sure silicone is the answer. I know there were,,,, and I'm guessing there still are other options.The stuff I was using 20 years ago was close to a butyl (sp) caulk.Thanks, Harry

          4. sledgehammer | Aug 08, 2008 01:29am | #15

            In the last 20 years they have come a long way on silicone perimeter sealents....

             

            They come in all kinds of colors now.

          5. Piffin | Aug 08, 2008 02:19am | #16

            "Apply those little silicon self stick drawer bumpers to the stops all around about 12" apart. This will prevent too much of the sealant from squeezing out."Thanks for my tip of the week for myself!Also, I could use a source for black double sided tape. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          6. ChicagoMike | Aug 08, 2008 04:19am | #20

            Yeah, the biggest enemy of reglazing or new glazing is not leaving enough material between the glass and the stops. All glazing movement is set by a multiplier so if it will expand by 100% this means it will only move to a max of 1/8" which is usually enough for glazing. But if you squeese out all of the glazing and leave 1/64" in there, it will break at 1/32"

            And by the way, I am honored that Piffin the great liked one of my ideas and asked me a question!!!

            Thanks bud. I will post the sources to all next post. 

            "It is what it is."

          7. ChicagoMike | Aug 08, 2008 04:25am | #21

            Souce for the tape,

            http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/9/98418X38BL_2589.html?Origin=

            And the glazing,

            Acryl-R SM 8500 Acrylic Caulk

            ERSystems - Elastomeric Roofing Systems, Inc

            6900 Bleck Dr

            Rockford, MN 55373 USA

            1-800-403-7747 (For product information)

            And by the way, I happen to work very closely with a major window manufacturer and silicone is ONLY used in clad situations. If it is wood, the elastomeric is used due to it's strength, flexion, adhesion, and most importantly in the case of wood, it is paintable. 

            "It is what it is."

          8. Piffin | Aug 08, 2008 04:38am | #22

            "I am honored that Piffin the great liked one... "The city of Chicago is not the only thing that is windy where you live...;) 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          9. ChicagoMike | Aug 08, 2008 04:57am | #23

            LOL!

            Yeah, thanks.

            ChicagoMike is a nickname I picked up at a job I had years ago. I am from Chicago but moved to the Albany, NY. area in 1999. 

            "It is what it is."

        2. Scott | Aug 07, 2008 08:35am | #10

          >>>Is there more header over that lower window that the kingpost is bearing on?Ya, good point. It's all been figured, engineered, and stamped. See the pic with labels. The whole wall is pretty much solid wood (read "Nasty Thermal Bridging"), but the free heat from the wood stove offsets the nastiness. >>>What makes up the top chord of the gable truss there?If I understand your question, that would be the rough sawn 2X14 DF rafters.>>>The fact you have beefy stuff up over this makes no difference if the header under the king is insufficient and the trusss itself is not integrated within itself to fully support the loads of that roof with minimal deflection.I completely agree. At this point (three years later), I've seen no signs of stress in the windows below or any other structural issues. Here's hoping.....Scott.

          Edited 8/7/2008 1:37 am by Scott

          1. Piffin | Aug 08, 2008 02:23am | #17

            I cede to the engineer then. Didn't know if it had been engineered or if it was a seat of the pants thing. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  5. JeffinPA | Aug 08, 2008 03:24am | #18

    Scott:

    With fear of stating the obvious, make sure your stops are well sealed (painted, stained, eurethaned, etc. prior to intalling)

    I've seen some nasty rot around windows because the seal at the stops failed and all hell broke loose

    1. Scott | Aug 08, 2008 03:57am | #19

      Nice tip, thanks.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

  6. ChicagoMike | Aug 12, 2008 12:53pm | #24

    Do you have a progress report?

     

    "It is what it is."

    1. Scott | Aug 13, 2008 07:51pm | #25

      >>>Do you have a progress report?...Patience, grasshopper....Sorry for the glacial pace, this is going to take a few weeks. I've ordered some rough sawn cedar stock for the sills, then I'll need to bevel it and make up the stops from some nice dry D. fir that is leaning against the house. Then I'll have the somewhat intimidating job of making templates for the triangular glass panels, something I don't want to screw up (could be an expensive mistake if I misjudge). I'm thinking about using strips of el-cheapo 1/8" mahogany ply.If you're interested I'll snap some pics along the way.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

    2. Scott | Aug 13, 2008 08:58pm | #26

      ...The other issue is that it's pretty hot here now; I might wait until temperatures are more moderate before opening up that truss to the great outdoors.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

      1. ChicagoMike | Aug 14, 2008 01:57am | #27

        Yeah, I'd be interested in some pics. And using luan strips for template is a great idea. Remember to reduce the measurement by 3/16 all around or tell the glass co. to do it. You also may want to buy some glass cups. The ones needed for that job would be about $90 a piece, you will need 2. It would definitely be worth it. 

        "It is what it is."

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Finding Hazardous Materials in a Fixer-Upper

Look closely at these common locations for hazardous materials in older homes.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Fine Homebuilding's Author Guidelines
  • Podcast Episode 693: Old-House Hazards, Building Larsen Trusses, AI in Construction
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding Hazardous Materials in a Fixer-Upper
  • A Classic Paint Sprayer Gets a Thoughtful Refresh

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data