When one wants to mount countertop laminate on the wall between the countertop backsplash and the bottom of the wall mounted cabs, and you need to cut the outline out for the small cabs above the oven and for windows as well, is it true that one must mount the laminate to a piece of luan that is cut into the template to fit, and then route the the laminate to the luan template after using laminate glue? And then use laminate glue to the backside of the luan to glue it to the wall?
I had a reliable countertop “pro” today tell me that that is how it must be done. WE did it that way today and I trusted he was right. HO comes home and does not like it at all because the added thickness is not behind the countertop backsplash and the thickness of the luan/laminate is resting on top of the countertop backsplash making the countertop backsplash look thinner. HO has asked me to please only mount the laminate to the wall surface, no luan, and to pass the edge of the luan behind the countertop backsplash so that it looks cleaner and more acceptably done. I don’t have a prob with this other than it’s a lot more work now and my countertop guy won’t come back to the job because he insists the luan is the right way to do it and wants no part of the “wrong” way. So now I”m stuck by myself doing it and I just want to know which way is the right way. It’s costing me sub-money and now the cost of a new sheet of laminate at $71.
Replies
No
There is no reason one can't cut the laminate to fit without using the lauan. It's fine to use the lauan as a template, to get the pattern right. You can use double stick tape between the two and trim the laminate from there. Then you remove the laminate from your template and apply it to your adhesive covered wall.
Ideally this has gone on first then your countertop scribed to fit against the backsplash. Either way on top or behind as long as the fit is good with a small bead of silicon your golden.
You sub has either never been shown any other way and would there for think it's the only and right way to do it. Or he's a lazy imbecile or not skilled enough to do it any other way.
Sad thing is it doesn't take any more time and looks tons better.
Thanks..yeah I am sure it doesn't take any more time. Except now for me it will because I gotta do it by myself, and I wasted 12hrs today and now I gotta rush order a new piece of laminate and will have to pay for it and rush shipping.
Maybe I'm the inbecile. I feel pretty low. If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
"Or he's a lazy imbecile or not skilled enough to do it any other way."
Lazy by doing more work and giving them a better job in the long run?
U gonne put the longevity of double stick tape to drywall over contact cement on two suitable surfaces?
Wow ..
and here I thot we were just gonna talk about taking the cheap way out of a backsplash.
the customers are nuts .. but the sub was wrong in not giving them what they wanted or just walking away from the job.
lazy imbecile?
Get real.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
U gonne put the longevity of double stick tape to drywall over contact cement on two suitable surfaces?
Wow ..
Jeff
You miss read my post. The double stick tape is only to hold the laminate to the template for cutting then the laminate is removed and applied to the drywall with contact cement.
I agree he actually did more work. By lazy imbecile I meant for not knowing or caring to know all the possible ways of doing this and doing a good job. He very well have made the backsplash look good but I stand by saying the lauan was not needed.
Be a good reader
I'd guess you've just run into the "we've always done it that way" excuse.<G>
If all that is bothering the customer is the reveal between the backsplash and the "backsplash" and the fit at the reveal is good, I would suggest unscrewing the countertop from the cabinets, pulling it and the lower backsplash forward, raising it on shims about 1/8" and jamming it back against the upper backsplash.
Hopefully the sub didn't scribe the lower splash to the wall first since he knew the gap would be covered by the thickness of the upper and you still have a nice, straight edge.
If you have an end splash to deal with then a slight move, right or left should take care of that. If you are fitted between walls at both ends you can move one of the short end splashes in a bit and be good.
A photo would help.
If your countertop ends at open air on either side, the thickness of the luan and laminate will still show and you could tastefully add a return or mimic whatever edge banding is on the main countertop.
Total coverage of the backsplash wall is often obtained by eliminating the standard 4" splash and applying a full height piece of substrate from the countertop to the cabinets and then gluing on the laminate. I've also seen the laminate glued directly to the wall but since walls are not always flat you tend to have a difficult time with the joint. It leaves a gap that is not easily or esthetically caulkable.
Say what??
The wall is surprisingly quite straight, so no, the counter splash wasn't scribed and sanded down to the scribe marks or anything. It's as smooth and straight as when I picked it up at the manufacturer.
The only "problem" with your idea is that I'd have to move the countertop out a 1/4" increasing the overhang by that much. I realize 1/4" isn't much, but it may be enough, perhaps(?) to make it look funny? I dunno. If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
What can I say?
Try it. You'll have to move the countertop anyhow to do whatever you are going to do. And that first move won't cost you any money or real time lost compared to what you think you might have to do.
I'm willing to try it, your idea is excellent. There is one other problem in the details that would prohibit it from working though. On the "L" portion of the counter top that means on the long side of the "L" I'd be bumping out the top by 1/4" there also. The only prob with that is that the the oven is in the way of that 1/4" To the left of the oven is a small 24" wide floor cabinet which can't move because the fridge is in the way, which can't move because....long story, trust me. Dang it.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
More details?
What do you mean by oven? Built in, as in a cabinet? Generic, as in free standing range? Slide in and or cooktop combo?
Hold up your thumb and forefinger and hold them about that ] [ far apart. That's 1/4" on my screen. True 1/4" luan or generic (3/16).
Did you shoehorn that oven and frig in there and have to bang them in the last 6"?
If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Ah, funny, you use my words back on me <g>
The oven is free standing, sandwiched between the L leg of the countertop to the right of it and a small 24" cab to the left of it with a fridge on the other side of the cab. The fridge is against the wall pretty tight . If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
I realize 1/4" isn't much, but it may be enough, perhaps(?) to make it look funny? I dunno.
Ralph offered the best solution. Depending what kind of knobs or pulls the cabinet doors have, the extra 1/4" may not make a difference or may even make it look better.
May be you should go over that with your client first so you don't do it a third time. Some of them are just hard to please.
willie,
If you re-do this splash here's something you might want to think about.
Round all inside corner cuts. All the cracks I've seen in laminate that are stress related, come out of a square corner. Drill the four corners of an outlet cutout or rout with a lam. bit. Same goes for those inside corner jogs around the window and cabs.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time