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Installing Windows from the outside…

kneetwoods | Posted in General Discussion on January 31, 2006 08:25am

I was asked to install windows from the outside to make less mess on the inside. I have installed dozens of windows always from the inside. So this is new and different for me.

The home is brick and the windows are double hung replacement windows with weights and pulleys. The existing windows also have “triple track storm windows” that need to come out and not get replaced.

So… Q’s are

1  Is this possible to install from the outside and get a good install?

2  Will this make less mess inside and less painting of the casing trim?

3  Will it take longer to install a replacement window from the exterior than the interior??

4  Any other flashing and/or sealing tips?  Or any tips?

Thanks much!

Bob T

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Replies

  1. Stilletto | Jan 31, 2006 12:18pm | #1

    When replacing windows from the outside I cut the ouside stops off on the sides and save them leave the top remove the lower sash remove the inside stops and pull out the upper sash.  Just slide the replacement in and renail the outside stops on.  I always "wrap" my window openings with aluminum coil stock cover the sill first then the sides then the top caulk all seams and you're done.  A guy on the inside of the house helps as well to place the window and screw it in.  We used to do 25 windows a day this way with a 4 man crew.  As for being harder to do it this way I don't know because I've only done it this way, haven't done any from the inside.

    1. kneetwoods | Feb 01, 2006 06:53am | #2

      Thanks Stilletto,

      When you say outside stops, is that the same as brick mold?

      You sound fast!! Want to come help me?

      Thanks again.

       

      1. 2LarryM | Feb 01, 2006 08:49am | #3

        Usually there is a 1x piece of trim behind the brick mould that sticks past by about 1/2" You should be able to cut that off flush with the brick mould. I think it is easier to install from inside unless the interior stops have 20 coats of paint and there is a lead paint issue. At that point I would probably install from exterior.

      2. Stilletto | Feb 01, 2006 01:08pm | #4

        Chicago?  Just as bad there as it is here I'm on the other side of the pond from you maybe spring time.  I was hoping for somewhere a couple hours south of us,  with sunshine and warmer weather. 

    2. Comic | Feb 04, 2006 04:14am | #11

      You seem like you have a lot of experience replacing windows and I had a question on some windows I need to replace. I am rehabbing a townhouse that had Acorn Building Corp Alum. Sliders on the second floor. These windows have a flange that is covered by wood siding and then (must have been resided) vinyl siding tight to the window frame. Also the soffit sits right on top of the window frame. I believe it is going to be a nightmare to attempt to remove these windows and replace with vinyl. How would you get the alum. frame out since it is covered by two layers of siding and the soffit at the top. Thanks for your help.

      1. Stilletto | Feb 04, 2006 05:26pm | #12

        This one could be messy and a pain in the butt.  Depending on your skill level with all of these materials you have described.

        Option #1

        The interior casing or whatever finishes out your rough opening needs to be removed any insulation or foam around the jamb also needs to go depending on your wall thickness you will need the corresponding metal sawzall blade you don't want to cut through the wood siding and into your vinyl try cutting the flange from the inside keeping the sawzall at the proper angle and tight to the wall as you can holding it this way will keep the sawzall from jack hammering cracks in any drywall seams.  Take your time do it right and this won't be to bad. When you have finished cutting it be sure the j-channel isn't caulked to the jamb if so cut the caulk line with an extendable utility knife then the jamb should slide right out.  Try and rush it, order some siding, soffit, and J-channel and at least a half a day more in replacing all the stuff you cut through. 

        Option #2

        Remove the casing, jamb extensions, or drywall as described above. Screw off the drywall well around your rough opening.  With a sawzall and metal blade cut the jamb in the middle of each side as well as in the middle of top and bottom and pry out each section.  This method could cause drywall cracks if framing members move as you pry against them go back to option one.

        1. Comic | Feb 08, 2006 04:11am | #15

          If I could impose on your experience one more time. I like your option 1 of cutting out the Aluminum frame and leaving the nail fin in place. This will give me a clean opening with the J-channel of the vinly siding still in place. However the rough opening will be 48" high by 60" wide. There is an aluminum slider in place now. My question is how do I seal the new window in place? I can't use a window with a nail fin unless I close up the opening and use a trim piece around the exterior of the window between the new frame and the J-channel of the vinyl siding and then caulk everything.

          Do I get a window without a nail fin and use an exterior stop that overhangs the vinyl siding? My main concern is weatherproofing and having the installation look good. I believe I can cut the frame out which will be way easier than trying to extract the nailing fin with it. However all the vinyl windows I have seen come with a nailing fin.

          Thanks for your help.

           

          1. Stilletto | Feb 08, 2006 01:52pm | #16

            Sorry I misunderstood. I did this at my house a couple of weeks ago picked up a couple of stock windows at Mynards smaller than my existing openings by 3 inches in each way, reused the exisiting sill, if you don't have a sill put one in flush to drywall and 2" past the vinyl J-channel.  Then refame your opening to fit your window all framing to be flush with drywall and wood siding.  (ripped down 2x stock)  Install your window flush with the outside of the framing.  Outside I laminated two pieces of 1x stock for exterior trim first piece was a 1x4,  second piece was 1x2 3/4 glued and screwed to framing only wrapped the trim with aluminum caulked all gaps and cracks and went inside put jamb extensions on once again flush to the new window framing which was flush with the drywall and trimmed it all out.  No new J-channel, siding just new trim inside and out which always looks good.  Inside try to match trim if possible.  Hope this helps not very good at explaining things.

            They make replacement windows without the nailing flange,  I used new construction windows and cut the nailing flange off.  Faster than ordering the size I needed and 1/3 of the cost.  Any other questions just ask  and I or someone else will point you in the right direction.

  2. JohnSprung | Feb 01, 2006 10:44pm | #5

    How high up?  Will you have to mess with scaffolding or a lift?

     

     

    -- J.S.

     

    1. kneetwoods | Feb 02, 2006 07:28am | #6

      Pretty high up!  First and second floors.  Third floor too -- but from the inside. I'm concerned about that.  I'm thinking a lift is the way to go. What da you think??

      Bob t

      1. User avater
        EricPaulson | Feb 02, 2006 02:09pm | #7

        I think you are letting the client tell you how to do your job.

        Will this be the last peice of "advice" they have to offer?

        Eric[email protected]

         

         

        It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

         

         

         

        1. User avater
          jocobe | Feb 02, 2006 03:26pm | #8

          I've obviously never met the customer, but I would attempt to assure the HO of your ability to be minimally instrusive to her home. Testimonials could be used as evidence, or pursuasive explanation. You could explain the use of drop clothes or shoe covers.If this did not work, I would rethink doing any work for her, as you could be seeing just the tip of the iceberg. My 'red flag' early warning system would be activated!Good luck!View Image

          Edited 2/2/2006 8:08 am ET by jocobe

          1. kneetwoods | Feb 03, 2006 07:43am | #9

            Hey Eric and Jocobe,

            I hear what your saying and thanks for the input. I've only installed replacement windows from the inside. Never from the outside but wanted to learn if it can be done well from the outside. I know new construction is different but I'm talking bout replacements.

            So can it be done well from the outside and what are the pro's and con's??

            Cheers

            Bob T

          2. brownbagg | Feb 03, 2006 03:37pm | #10

            I saw on TV, a window that nails on to the existing sash of the old window. so it uses the trim of the old window. Just remove the glass of the old window and it goes there. I think they was Pellas. 2+3=7

  3. mike4244 | Feb 04, 2006 08:16pm | #13

    Yes it's possible. Tell the homeowner to install the windows. If installing them from the inside is your preference, tell them that is the only way you will do it. Charge enough for a helper to vaccum etc ,protect floors and furnishings. I turned down a job this morning because the lady wanted me to do all cutting of trim outside. Three story home, rain, cold and I am not comfortable leaving tools outside unless I'm there continually.If you do not get the job, you'll be better off.

    mike

    1. kneetwoods | Feb 05, 2006 10:02am | #14

      thanks mike and everyone who posted. I get your point.

      Not against installing from the outside (or doing it different) if it works. Just cause I learned and have always installed from inside. But I'm not willing to do it cause HO suggested if it doesn't work. Stilletto only does it that way and sounds like it works.

      Thanks again,

      bob t

      Edited 2/5/2006 2:03 am ET by kneetwoods

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