Replies

1. 
   NathanW | Jul 20, 2003 06:57pm | #1

   Hey, where did that photo go?

   
1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 20, 2003 08:39pm | #2

   should be ok , if you can still get the dogs on and snugMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 20, 2003 11:54pm | #3

   Could be a big IF and then the wall could be getting twitched at the inside corner and fighting with you.

   No problem for the tie but for sake of the wall, I might be cutting a small nothch in the ofrm to let it slide to straight position..

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   brownbagg | Jul 21, 2003 01:38am | #4

   from the engineer inspector point of view, this is a no,no because the snap ties provide a path for corrision to get to the rebar. The county might turn you down on this. Accordiing to code all rebar much have 1 12 inch of clearance or 1 1/2 times the biggest aggregate in the concrete mix.

   Edited 7/20/2003 8:17:49 PM ET by BROWNBAGG

1. 
   NathanW | Jul 21, 2003 02:20am | #5

   The inspector is going to have to call me on this one I think, with 30 hrs of labor in the bar so far. This retaining wall will get a double coat of water-based sealant on the wet side...maybe I'll argue that, if he is as persnickety as you!

   Good point though, and something I'll never do again is hang horizontals on the ties. On tall walls such as these, what is the normal sequence for the rebar? Verticals or horizontals first?

   Piffin, good point on the wall being squeezed. I'll probably notch as you suggest where it is the worst. Thankfully it's only happening on the first course, and not everywhere. Seems like some of the #6 verticals weren't fully resting on the footing bar when they were tied, or maybe the footing bar has now dropped some under the weight.

   Seems like everything we do is subject to being screwed up every time you drive a nail or whatever. Definetely learning a bunch on my first foundation...and, can't wait for the wood part. After six weeks of form work, I love framing again.

2. 
   NathanW | Jul 21, 2003 02:27am | #6

   Dudes,

   (can I call you that?)

   There was a how-to thread a while back on bending re-bar in the field without a cutter/bender.

   In a panic, I came up with a killer system for bending this bar, which is almost all #7 grade 60 in the footing. I'll post a picture or two tomorrow evening.

   Thanks for the replies,

   Nathan

3. 
   Piffin | Jul 21, 2003 02:39am | #7

   I have a five foot length of two inch pipe and some slots in my trailer hitch for when the bender is not on the job.

   Brown is right about the rust pathway but most places I have worked no inspector even knows that, let alone makes an issue. Good luck..

   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   skids | Jul 21, 2003 05:13am | #8

   i agree with brownbagg and piffin, it is a path for corosion, and while it probably won't fail, and might not be noticed it is in practice wrong. if i where you, and thank god i'm not, i wouldn't redo it either, but i wouldn't do it again. 

5. 
   Piffin | Jul 21, 2003 05:33am | #9

   I wonder if notching the form to relax the tension and shiming with s rubber will break that coorsion path..

   Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   NathanW | Jul 21, 2003 08:27am | #12

   You know, I thought about the trailer hitch too. I only have about three feet from the mouth of the hitch to the differential, so that ruled out all the bends on the 7/8 rod, plus, I couldn't see how to get a "Z" bend for the footing drops. We ended up using two pieces of square steel tubing, the bender piece was about ten feet long, and it needed two guys on the end of it to bend that 7/8 bar.

7. 
   Piffin | Jul 21, 2003 01:16pm | #13

   The slots on the hitch run perpendicular to the frame / direction of travel, so the rebar fits into it in same direction as the bumper. Length no problem that way.

   #5 is largest that I've used. No Way would I want to be handling 7/8"!.

   Excellence is its own reward!

8. 
   IMERC | Jul 21, 2003 03:09pm | #14

   Yur spoiled Pif....

2. 
   mike4244 | Jul 21, 2003 06:42am | #10

   Theres an easy way to get over this, pull the snap ties out that are bent and replace with pencil rod and rosettes. Watch  that you don,t pull the rosettes too tight or you will narrow the wall. Personally i would get the hatchet out and chop the waler so the hairpins go on. Either way will work, so will lifting rebar, but I would replace the bent up ties if you go this far

   Mike

1. 
   NathanW | Jul 21, 2003 08:22am | #11

   Mike,

   pencil rod

   rosettes

   waler

   hairpins

   No comprendo...but I did understand hatchet!

   I'm especially interested in the easy way out, as usual...so what is a pencil rod, and a rosettte?

   Nathan

1. 
   timkline | Jul 22, 2003 01:08am | #15

   Pencil rod = a steel rod sometimes used as rebar, about 3/16" thick, also used  as wall tie material

   Rosettes = A clamping device which slides over a length of pencil rod or round wall tie material, allowing you to apply a stop at any point on the rod. It consists of a large (1 1/2" dia) face for applying pressure to the back of the form material. Provides ability to put a tie in anywhere, anyplace, any wall thickness.  (You need these, trust me)

   Walers = Horizontal doubled 2x form braces. Good God, you must have these already on a wall this tall. If not, you had better put some on.

   Hairpins = Wedge shaped device which provides clamping pressure to the buttons on your wall ties.  The wall ties go through the form panel, in between the waler (2 2x4's ) and then a hairpin clamps to the button on the tie end.

   Strongbacks = Vertical walers used in tall walls over the tops of the  horizontal walers. Sometimes 2x6 material. You might want to consider these, strongly.

   carpenter in transition