anyone got an idea for sealing a joint between a 10′ dia grain bin & where it meets a 4/12 pitch shed roof of steel
there is approx 10 liniar feet of joint to seal
bin is corregated like a culvert
temp in this area -30 f to +100 f
any practical ideas appreiated
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Replies
If it is the ribs or humps in a steel roof you are trying to seal, there is a foam "birdstop or draftstop" made to fit most profiles of metal roofing. Your metal supplier should have some that fits the profile you are using. If the roof is already in place you can use one of the expanding foams to seal the high rib holes. One caution about expanding foam; it will not keep English Starling out for very long, they will peck thier way right through it to get to food or a nesting site. A role of roof flashing scribed to the roof profile and nailed up before the siding goes on is the only sure way to stop those pesky birds.
Dave
the problem is where the metal roof 4/12 pitch meets the grain silo 10 ft dia
there is approx 10 ft of contact on the curve
the seal would need to allow for some movement as th structures are on 2 different footings
You might get more answers if you give additional info, or post a drawing or picture. I don't exactly understand how the two come together.
don't know how to post so i will explain
customer has grain storage bin approx 10' from barn , he built a shed between barn & bin years ago . the leak is between shed & bin
as i am in a semi- rural area and have solved other problems for him (35m) in 2 years he figures i can fix anything
boss hog asked the question recently (has any one got any business from this forum) i would have to reply yes as i use it as a reference often & hope the competion dosen't
Posting drawings or pics is easy. When you're posting a message or replying to one, look below the "post" button. There you should see "attach files". Click on that and then click on "browse" and then guide the resulting window to the file on your puter where you saved the drawing. (Make sure you instruct that window to show "all files"
or you may not be able to see the file you're after.) Then hit upload". Now wait and wait and wait. When the window tells you that the file is uploaded, if you have another, do the same. When done hit "done". This will return you to the original posting window. Now hit post there.
As you can see, I made these drawings with Word, so if you have no other drawing programs loaded, you can still do simple drawings. Hmmmmmmm. For some reason, the server wouldn't accept the .doc file today so I converted them to a .jpg with another program.
As to your problem, I'm suspecting your situation is more like B in the attachment than A.
I've dealt with a number of these over the years and yes, there always a pain. Usually all the guy (or me when it was ours) wants is something effective, cheap and dirty.
You can use a strip of EPDM and a length of say 1/8" x1" strap metal. Predrill holes down the center of the "bin" strap for a slip fit to your fasteners; either largish sheet metal screws or the like. Hex head is usually easier to drive into the bin metal. Position these holes over the high point of a rib and proceed from one end to the other, trapping the EPDM in between as you go. Keep your screws close enough together and the cinch force should pinch tightly enough to prevent water entry. A helper up there is a BIG plus.
It's the transition to the shed roof where you'll find the material wants to pucker on you. But these puckers don't really matter in terms of water shedding.
If you want to get this all to look a bit nicer, try to find a suitably sized scrap of uncured rubber from the same roofing company where you may go to find the scrap of cured EPDM. The uncured material will allow you to stretch it around more to rid of those puckers and make things lay flatter.
You haven't indicated which way the shed roof is pitched. If its pitched down toward the bin and I suspect it is, you could slice across and thru the metal roofing with an abrasive blade or ply blade mounted backwards in your saw, allowing you to pull the now loose small portion of the roof metal under the main yet fixed piece (creating a lap area) and then trap your EPDM between them. The lap may not be necesssary.....depending. Maybe if you just cut it and insert underneath, it'll do the deed. Make certain to file or otherwise dull or pad the edges of that metal so it doesn't cut the rubber roofing. And make sure you calculate the approach you choose into the width of EPDM you buy and install.
Hope this helps or at least leads to additional thoughts about how to do this.
I also hope you're doing this on a cost+ basis. <g>
Edit: Those puckers won't matter PROVIDED that you do the integration to the metal roofing far enough uphill from them that any pooled water in the puckers doesn't spill out under your rubber to metal seam there. Same holds true for the heighth chosen against the bin for fixing the rubber there. Leave the length of the EPDM overlong enough that the water from the roof sheds over the ends of the EPDM and onto the ground at those points. The birds will also appreciate the little bath areas up there. :-)
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 8/10/2003 3:36:29 PM ET by GOLDHILLER
Edited 8/10/2003 3:40:25 PM ET by GOLDHILLER
your sketch (b) is correct , the pitch is from barn to bin as a result you go over several ribs on bin due to roof slope . yes job is t& m
by the way whats epdm
EPDM rubber roofing is basically a large sheet of rubber like unto an inner tube. It's used in many flat or near flat roofing situations as well as for pond liners and such. Comes as either a cured or uncured product. The cured EPDM is what is mostly and generally used in simple applications where extra stretchability and formability isn't an issue.
The material is usually sold around here in 10' x 50' sheets for somewhere around $400 which includes the adhesive used to lay it in a conventional situation. That's why I suggested that for your situation, you may want to contact a local roofing company that may well have some leftover scraps of sufficient size you could purchase for this job.
The material comes in two thicknesses and is priced accordingly. Its life expectancy varies as you might expect with the thickness. The heavier stuff seems to carry a concensus of a 50 year life under normal circumstances if properly installed.
A google search should yield much info.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 8/10/2003 10:18:07 PM ET by GOLDHILLER