Anybody have a decent photo of a well done kick-out flashing at a roof/cheek wall intersection? I’m second-guessing myself over here. 🙂
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Roof CheeK.
Whats the cheek mean?
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
A cheek wall: A wall with a roof butting into it. :) If you're gonna ask why I call it a cheek wall... I have no idea. Could be one of those regional things. It's just a wall that has a roof butting into it. The side walls of a dormer would be cheek walls, as would the second floor gable end of a house with a one story garage roof butting it.
Make any sense?View Image
Yep got it. I never heard the term before. Wouldn't your flashing just overlay the apron flashing on a dormer situation? I was thinking that a kickout situation would only be needed where a roof terminated against a cheek wall. Maybe I better wait and see the answers by the ones that know a bit more about this LOL. Someone with pics I hope. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Wouldn't your flashing just overlay the apron flashing on a dormer situation? I was thinking that a kickout situation would only be needed where a roof terminated against a cheek wall.
Yes, that is correct Blue. I didn't mean to imply that a kickout flashing was needed at a dormer. I was just using a dormer to illustrate the term 'cheek wall' for you.View Image
Berger Bldg. Products manufactures prefab ones that work well. Some roofers fabricate them on site, but I find that most roofers don't even consider putting them on. The siding below IS going to rot. Sometimes the siding guy will take it upon himself to install them. Around here you DON'T see them very often. Sorry no pic. Maybe go to Bergers site.
The siding below IS going to rot.
Umm, that's why I'm posting. :) I'm wondering if I did a decent job on the one I did today and the other I've got to do in the morning. Thanks for the suggestion... I'll check out that link.View Image
I make my own from step flashing. I install a regular piece of step flashing to cover the wall where the kick out will be, then take a piece and bend the fold backward at bottom forming a triangle shaped kick out. This I install over the regular one. It is quick to make, works very well and doesn't look strange the way some of the pre-made ones do.
Sorry this is not very helpful description. Maybe someone with a graphics package could try drawing it?
http://www.kickout.info/gallery.html
http://www.ibacos.com/pubs/RoofFlashingGuidelines.pdf
Kickout flashing is used where a roof butts into an exterior wall. In most cases it's used to divert the rain water into a gutter, cause the gutter will NEVER butt into the wall, hence the water and debris run down that section of the siding and rot it. It will rot.
I don't think you meant to send that to me...
Hey Brian - take a regular step flashing of the material of your choice and snip thru the flange that would lay on the roof about 2" from the bottom. Bend the verticle flange 45d at the cut making the 2" piece go under the larger roof flange. We normally also bend over the verticle part at 45d from the intersection of the vert and horiz from top to bottom for cosmetics.
Looking back at what I just wrote, it probably doesn't make much sense, so I'll post you a pic in the morning when I'm back in the shop.
http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
Although this isn't quite what you are describing because the vertical wall doesn't extend past the roof, the kickout principle is the same. We have to flash with 5x5 before the roofers get there. I don't think any of them here know what step flashing is.
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Edited 4/1/2008 9:14 pm ET by RalphWicklund
Thanks Ralph, that's the type of stuff I was hoping to see. Looks nice too, BTW.View Image
Thanks Grant. I got my head around the first part pretty good... that sounds just about like what I did today. The second fold of the upper part for 'cosmetics'.... well... I'm still working on that. It'll probably click when I look at mine again tomorrow. Thanks again.View Image
I don't usually do the extra bend, just make sure the top side of the bottom piece of step flashing runs out over a course of siding. As long as it doesn't run behind the siding you should be ok. The extra little kick is a good idea but I think it's kind of overkill.
The extra little kick is a good idea but I think it's kind of overkill.
You're right if you're dealing with claps, but not if you're flashing stucco, EIFS (or whatever the intitials of that horrible sh!t are), or fake stone. http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
You're right if you're dealing with claps, but not if you're flashing stucco, EIFS (or whatever the intitials of that horrible sh!t are), or fake stone.
You mean there's siding besides claps and shingles?
I'm in New England...;-)
Ooops, I forgot about shingles.http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
I did a post on it last year in the spring, don't remember the title.
Try advanced search with jhole as the from, and kickout as the title.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Found it. May not be what you want... but then you didn't buy me a beer for it either.
90785.1
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
Found it. May not be what you want... but then you didn't buy me a beer for it either.
LOL... yeah but if I ever do meet you then I will. Thanks for the link, nice looking repair. While not quite as elegant as some of the flashings posted today, I'm confident that mine will serve it's purpose. I'm going to be back there tomorrow anyway so I'll touch mine up a bit while I'm there.View Image
Dry-Vit has a very thorough flashing manual on thier web site. It's definately worth checking out.
Dustin
Any chance of a link? I tried to find something at their web site and didn't get far. Thanks.
Plastic kick-outs:http://www.dryflekt.com/
Here ya go as promised:
Take a standard step flashing and grab it with needle nose pliers and tongs as shown:
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Bend with the tongs as you twist with the pliers.
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You'll wind up with something like this:
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Mash down on the plier twisted side so it folds on it self, thusly:
View Image
Continued next post.
http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
Hammer the fold tightly.
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Grab the lower flange from corner to corner with your tongs and fold it to the inside.
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Trim a little off the end so it doesn't bunch up when you fold it over.
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And fold the bend on over.
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http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
And here's the finished product:
View Imagehttp://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
Grant.... WAY above the call of duty there. Much appreciated. That was an awesome little tutorial that everyone should take a peek at. No more guessing if I got it right. :) Thanks again!View Image
Grant,
You make it appear quite easy.
Thanks for the great step by step.
Walter
Grant,
You make it appear quite easy.
Doesn't he? LOL... my first attempt will look like something somewhere between a deflated beach ball, a raison, and a wad of Grace on a hot summer day.View Image
Awesome Grant! I knew someone with the right skill would chirp in. Beautiful job! I can see that the last ones I did were wrong now..close, but no where near as nice.Grant, how far out do you leave the flashings beyond the stucco? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
how far out do you leave the flashings beyond the stucco?
A couple of inches. We seldom flash stucco or EIFS. It's mostly fake stone that we're using that detail on and the thickness of the material varies.
It also depends on if there's a gutter or not. If there's no gutter catching the outflow, I bend the flashing closer to 90 degrees so it drips further away from the wall below and I extend the kickout further. If there's a gutter below catching the outflow, I bend it as shown - about 45 degrees.http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
Grant, most of the time our flashings are just cheap aluminum step flashing. What do you think about me using lead for the kick-outs instead? I figure it's more pliable, durable, and (arguably) might look better. I like to use lead for my dormer aprons and window pediments anyway so I usually have some around.View Image
What do you think about me using lead for the kick-outs instead?
I don't know. We don't use lead much here except for waste vents and the occasional counter flash. I've never used it for any base flashing. Walter was warning against using it for anything but countering in the timberframe thread. He'd know better than me.
The beauty of my method is that you can just modify what ever stock step flashing that you're using for the rest of the wall.http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
Nice ! Does it work as easily as you made it appear when done with galv. step flashing stock?
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Does it work as easily as you made it appear when done with galv. step flashing stock?
Don't know. I'd guess it would take a little more grunting to twist the needlenose pliers. But, most of the pre-made galv steps I've seen are pretty thin (probably 28 ga) so they shouldn't put up much of a fight.http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.